Quote: Originally Posted by PISTVL just wondering I am going to respray my car it is morning blue my question is will i be able to get the exact factory paint (code) in 2pak form or only available in acrylic?? Oh not another Morning Blue VL. Everyones painting VLs Morning Blue these days. You can get the colour in both Acrylic **** or 2-pack. Your choice and $.

yep another morning blu vl! i have owned it for about 7 months now! its gonna be differant!

oh and btw it came out of the factory morning blue !!! so i am not changing to that colour

Hey guys! Been searching all over the internet for topics regarding Acrylic or 2 Pack. I am wanting to paint my whole car (Chev Camaro) It will stay the same color Black. Anyway it originally came out with acrylic paint and I was set on paiting it in 2 Pack. Then I found out that the stuff can kill you so I was hesitant. Now I started looking at Acrylic and most of you guys says that 2 Pack is heaps better. So basically I don't know what to do. I would love to paint it 2 Pack but I don't have a full face mask and I don't want to fork out $1500 for a Air Line respirator one. Apprently the half faced masks are not that great as far as protection goes. I only have about 5 hrs time a day to work on the car so I was going to do a panel at a time. I pretty much wanted to do all the prep and spray on the primer to get it ready for topcoat and then take it to a booth to get done. So my question is can I do this at home if I make a temporary booth up for panels. The shell would need to be painted in the garage with primer. The only problem I have with this is the health issue! I have a dog in the back yard, neighbours around ike everyone else I guess. So if I spray the 2 pack primer how long is it dangerous to be in the area. What should I do to avoid health issues etc? Can I get away with doing it and be safe is the main question. Or if anyone paints cars here for a living and maybe wants some extra $$$ email me with a price on what it would cost me to paint my car from bare metal. No need to do door jams etc.. as the color is already black and I will be painting it black. Cheers - Mike

lol, if you use 2pk in a well ventilated area you shouldnt have a problem, for instance if you spray your car in the shed after you finished air out the shed open all the doors/windows....once is vented its fine..

If your neighbours are close and won't like things like that don't do it. The fumes drift for meters. They may dob you into authorities. Yes the paint contains IsoCyanites sp? Not good for you. If your worries about your health take it to a panel shop. Because a charcoal filter doesn't totally protect you, there can be all kinds of side effects from exposure to 2 pack paint once mixed, applied and worst when curing.

I'd take it to a panel shop but I don't have 8K to blow on a paint job. That's why I would like to do it myself. I would only be spraying the primer not the top coats at home. So basically after I prep a panel then I would prime it etc.. Just do a panel at time. I know the half face masks don't cut it. So I was thinking of running a hose to my diving snorkel, have a few plastig bags around my head taped up and buy one of those spray suits and I should be alright. I'll vent out the garage when finished like mentioned if that should make it safe. Anyone recommend a good spray gun preferably a Gravity ded HPLV one, suitable for primers, and base coats. I have read that the Devilbiss GTI is a good gun what model number though as they do have a few and most importantly what nozzle sizes are best? Quote: Originally Posted by aerovl If your neighbours are close and won't like things like that don't do it. The fumes drift for meters. They may dob you into authorities. Yes the paint contains IsoCyanites sp? Not good for you. If your worries about your health take it to a panel shop. Because a charcoal filter doesn't totally protect you, there can be all kinds of side effects from exposure to 2 pack paint once mixed, applied and worst when curing.

8k for paint youd want it to be gold plated, man wtf am i doing wrong i should be charging 8k cheers

i've got a xd that was painted two pack over the acrylic. It was painted a few years ago. in some areas under bonnet and door jams it has started to crack. I asked a couple painters i know why, they recken that if the orignal acrylic paint wasn't completly stripped this happens becos of heat expansion between the two.

Yeah well 8k was just the top off my head. Have heard people paying 10K for full bare metal jobs. I alos got quoted $400 for the whole side of the car to be painted $400 for a whole side of the car now obviosuly that was gonna be a ****ty job. How much do you charge GRN-747 for a bare meta job? I might come and see you depending on the price Quote: Originally Posted by GRN-747 8k for paint youd want it to be gold plated, man wtf am i doing wrong i should be charging 8k cheers Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

someone told me the other day that there paint job cost em 11k not even bare metal, door james and bay and boot jam didnt even get sprayed i laughed to myself and thought **** man alot of ppl out there are killing it in this game, hence why i left the trade i still do a few cashies here and there, atm doing up my cousin vk calais bay all done did the inside of the bonnet today white with blue pearl, and im not charging him a cent due to being family hehe but anyone out there who wants to do bare metal resprays, ive got a lil tip for you "theres no need to do bare metal" i dont see the point plus more labour in prepping it coz you have to treat the metal b4 it rust, and many pray painter will say the same thing, if you wanna spray 2k over arcylic the bestt hing to do it hifill the whole car, aslong at the old paints rubed the hifill will stick to anything and it last for ever, ive never sprayed 2k straight over arcylci coz ill know wat will happen, 1it will fry up when spraying its a cu nt to fix up, 2it will end up lifting in time, 3 2pack shrinks pack and causes the clear to duull up plus can cause blisters and crows feet, the last guy i charge for a respray only otuer shell 3k maybe a lil cheap but yeh was here for a month, plus it didnt have dints cheers

GRN-747, Okay I have a question for you. Would you possibly be interested in painting my car? I can get the door dings sorted, my next door neighbour is a dent removalist I still have to talk to him, as he said he might have someone that paints. The reason I was told to go to bare metal was that I have crows feet coming on one side of the car. Most likely bad prep when it was painted. I was advised to go to bare metal otherwise I risk the new paint stuffing up in the near future. I mean if I can get away with High Filling it and it will last I would like to be certain that this is the case. As I want to do it right once I would not need to paint the door jams or under bonnet as it is black anyway and I am staying with black. I am also not going to be putting clear on the top coat. Also the rear bumper is fiberglass and has a few paint cracks in it so that would have to be somehow fixed, maybe the high fill? Can I get in contact with you via email? So what do you think can I just rough up the surface and prime it for base coats in my situation? Quote: Originally Posted by GRN-747 someone told me the other day that there paint job cost em 11k not even bare metal, door james and bay and boot jam didnt even get sprayed i laughed to myself and thought **** man alot of ppl out there are killing it in this game, hence why i left the trade i still do a few cashies here and there, atm doing up my cousin vk calais bay all done did the inside of the bonnet today white with blue pearl, and im not charging him a cent due to being family hehe but anyone out there who wants to do bare metal resprays, ive got a lil tip for you "theres no need to do bare metal" i dont see the point plus more labour in prepping it coz you have to treat the metal b4 it rust, and many pray painter will say the same thing, if you wanna spray 2k over arcylic the bestt hing to do it hifill the whole car, aslong at the old paints rubed the hifill will stick to anything and it last for ever, ive never sprayed 2k straight over arcylci coz ill know wat will happen, 1it will fry up when spraying its a cu nt to fix up, 2it will end up lifting in time, 3 2pack shrinks pack and causes the clear to duull up plus can cause blisters and crows feet, the last guy i charge for a respray only otuer shell 3k maybe a lil cheap but yeh was here for a month, plus it didnt have dints cheers Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Just wondering what would be the best way to prep a car for a new paint job b4 taking it to a shop? and keeping it white as well. thanks

Quote: Originally Posted by iroczinoz So I was thinking of running a hose to my diving snorkel, have a few plastig bags around my head taped up and buy one of those spray suits and I should be alright. your ****ing kiddin right ??? that has to be the stupidest thing ive herd.

hahah that was just an idea. But if it works then why not? I will most likely build a booth and spray it from outside the booth if I do it myself I don't have a problem with things looking stupid if they work they work. Quote: Originally Posted by orange_vl your ****ing kiddin right ??? that has to be the stupidest thing ive herd. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i used acrylic, couldnt be bothered with 2pack

Has anyone here tried the ISO free 2k? Is it any good?

Quote: Has anyone here tried the ISO free 2k? Is it any good? is the ISO free, isocyanate free? i didnt know it existed. if it does is it any good?

Hichem is the one I know of: http://www.hichem.com.au/hicheminfo/PIDS/twopack.html Isocyanate free is the claim. I'm having trouble finding anyone who's used it. A lot of "I'd like to try it on my next project" but not many that actually have.

sounds like good stuff to me. i will have a futher look into it and if it checks out to be ok then i will most likely paint my car with it.