Best fuel for VL's is premium. i ran unleaded and got 350km\h off tank then on premium i got nearly 500 so it makes a difference. also unleaded over here is $1.13 per litre and premium is $1.22 per litre fuel is expensive in New Zealand hhhrrrrmmmmm

this is estimated on 63L tank... unleaded 5.5 litre per 1 k $71.19 for a full tank premium 7.93 litre per 1 k $76.86 for a full tank 2.43 litre per 1 k difference premium is $5.67 dearer --------------------------------- So now...we figure out how much both would run for 500k's.... (not km/h :P) Obviously...premium is the same...unleaded had 150k travel difference.. Running 5.5L per km.. 150 / 5.5L = 27.27 (4sf) 27.27 * 1.13 = 30.82 (4sf) Therefore there's a $30.82 difference but...premium was $5.67 dearer for a full tank so we minus that.. So premium over 500km is $25.15 cheaper... (Please correct me if im wrong, i'm sure i ****ed up something somewhere)

can anyone answer the question i asked on the previous page regarding the Chiptorque Chip and Cam package. i need an answer cause i wanna start doing this stuff. thanks.

Quote: Originally Posted by SmokeyD whats the easiest way to find out if ur AFM is dead or not?? and how can you adjust it urself ? by using a multimeter, you adjust it by turning the screw on the afm

Ohhh k, thanks "TREVA" Can you expand on the how to's. Like what wires to test and the setting for the MultiMeter? Also, the screw on the AFM, how far to turn it and what not. Thanks Steve

Pull the plug off your afm. There should be like 6 pins or something? Put the + of the multimeter on one end pin, and the - of the multimeter on the other end pin. The Multimeter should read 282 (@200ohms, i think it was). If it doesnt just move the screw a little bit and re-test until it reads that.

Quote: Originally Posted by Holden_Man Pull the plug off your afm. There should be like 6 pins or something? Put the + of the multimeter on one end pin, and the - of the multimeter on the other end pin. The Multimeter should read 282 (@200ohms, i think it was). If it doesnt just move the screw a little bit and re-test until it reads that. this is right except its 382, when i checked mine it was 80! its really easy to do and it already seems to have made a big improvement in acceleration Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

do you check it with the ignition on or off or car running....

i couldn't find any readins on any settings on the multimeter? WHAT SETTING TO USE?

Quote: Originally Posted by vlt-dreamer i couldn't find any readins on any settings on the multimeter? WHAT SETTING TO USE? LOL Ohms, It uses the Omega symbol Upside down U with little tails on the tips. LOL. And it's also the smaller setting, not K ohms.

omega sweet - thanks morgz - i hate all things auto electrical

LOL I touched the dipstick on the alternater once, "Missed the hole" hahaha a lot of guys can empithise with that. Anyway scared the crap out of me, I hate alternators, batteries, and stuff like that. I couldn't see the tube under the custom manifold and piping LOL. Next thing, ****ing sparks and ****, and it put me on my arse!! LOL.

Quote: Originally Posted by PSHHHT LOL I touched the dipstick on the alternater once, "Missed the hole" hahaha a lot of guys can empithise with that. Anyway scared the crap out of me, I hate alternators, batteries, and stuff like that. I couldn't see the tube under the custom manifold and piping LOL. Next thing, ****ing sparks and ****, and it put me on my arse!! LOL. LOL - Morgo looking like einstein after copping an electric shock. HAHAHA only way to learn, is from your mistakes.

Quote: Originally Posted by stck3L do you check it with the ignition on or off or car running.... nup ignition doesnt need to be on and car should not be running

PSHHHT: Its the Gnomes setting!

if u think about it stck3l if u hav the afm unplugged it wont hav power, so whether u can actually keep ur car running with it unplugged or not it wont make any difference to how the afm is set. (it pays off 2 think b4 u talk) although 382 is the stock setting i hav found 320 to b a gr8 deal better, it gave me noticibly better acceleration without any loss in fuel economy using ulp or pulp, it'd b worth trying

there is a fair bit you can do, my AFM was set at 320 ohms and I retuned it back to 382 and ive got better economy- I just ordered an o2 sensor and temp coolant sensor (I think thats wat its called) Injector Cleaner Air Filter Oil Filter Oil Change Fuel filter New leads New plugs New O2 sensor New temp coolant sensor Retuned the AFM to 382 ohms

how much did the sensors set u back driftarab?? also, i set my afm to 380 a fortnight ago (being on 300) then today i checked it again, it was at 800+... i put it down again, but what could be causing this?

Quote: Originally Posted by AfGhAn2nV how much did the sensors set u back driftarab?? also, i set my afm to 380 a fortnight ago (being on 300) then today i checked it again, it was at 800+... i put it down again, but what could be causing this? are you measuring from pin 1 and 6? with your multimeter? I originally got quoted $276 and I was like wtf! just for the oxygen sensor Went to this local place called discount auto parts and it was $108 for the O2 sensor and like around $40 for the temp sensor, apparently the temp sensor if it plays up can totally f*ck your fuel economy because ur car isnt warm enough so extra fuel is injected to bring it up to the right temp, I could be wrong, so im replacing both at the same time. Repco also stock them pretty cheap! around $140

ye i did all that.. im checking out new sensors and filter etc.. i hope it helps!! but im not sure if my coolant sensor works, it seems to show the temp up/down - but can it be wrong? wats the easiest way to check if its wrong?