hey guy's iv got a vl calais wiv an rb20det iv just swapped diff ratios from 3.45:1 to 3.89:1 it was a pig b4 wiv da heavy dutiy clutch and used heaps of fuel but wiv tha new ratio it gose heaps better uses less fuel and goes heaps harder i think tha rb20det is a good cheap reliable motor 4 a vl and it beats me mates r32 no worries

no, the vl's that went to newzealad had rb20e's in them, poo motors

curious on how much 4.11s fitted is worth i was quoted 500 with a spool if i bring the crown pinion to the bloke and another mate offerd to sell me a turbo diff with mini spool and 411's for a 1000 dollars plus i keep my old diff? cheers dan

Quote: Originally Posted by WHUMPSH OK i have read all the posts and i agree the views of some people are some what DISTORTED. everyone has there own ideas and view on the subject but it all come down to personal experience or mechanical experience. Japan has been doing it better for ages In japan in 1989 there was a race series like our clipsal 500 or grand prix where a bunch of turbos were raced and then they released the r32 gtr (godzilla) and it (that type of car) won 17 out of 18 races the it was raced in and because of this the japs abolished the series. The japs also provided all you's with what you call a turbo through there designing and engineering. you look at them and say that they ar still making inline sixes and the fact of the matter is that an inline six is still making the passes down the qtr mile (in the turbo class) that are top of their class. even in the new r34 they put an inline six in it. Now we will start with the rb26DETT. A.K.A. GODZILLA MOTOR The rb26 is a 2.6 litre motor that has a twin cam head ( now those few words - twin cam is like getting 50% extra free on you 1 litre milk). twin cam heads flow more than singles so much more that when it comes down to it your going to have more middle range power rather than 2500-3000rpm to 5000-5500rpm on manual vlt.when i say more middle range power i mean between 4000 and 8000 rpm. The rb26 can also be bored out to 2.8 litre (almost a 3.0 litre). it offers 2 turbos of one rather large one (T88D). Japan's transport authority\or standards commisson(what ever our aust standards is to them) is also like ours where they put down a limit to how much power cars can come out with from factory. This is the case so much that with just a few minior mods to the rb26 engine you can come up with comsiderable gains of upto 50rwkw (using an exaust and removing boost valve stopper and tuning ecu). and the engine does not have very many limits i have heard of high power gtr's all the time now for the rb25det 2.5litre twin cam ( <- there it is again) single turbo the rb25 offers an extra half a litre over it younger brother (rb20). it was made for the r33 skyline and has a small amount extra of power but not that much. A rb25 stock motor will not handle as much power as a rb20. These engines have also been detuned to meet regulations. but at the end of the day if you put a rb25 and a rb20 side by side and spent $3000 - $4000 on them the rb25 would onlu give you a max of 50 extra rwkw. the rb20det 2.0litre twin cam (<- there it is again, the japs must be on to something) single turbo the rb20 is a almost bullet proof engine allowing the internals to cope with upto 400kw of raw power through bolt on parts before the internals have to be changed or modified. They are also detuned and waiting for an exhaust to be bolted on.and from experience of being beaten in my vlct rb20 conversions are good if there done right and the engine has the right bolt ons In posting this i hope it helps in resolving some issues Basically what u said there is the Japs designed the turbo. **** off mate the Europeans have had them years b4 the japs could get their hands on it and do what they do best...........COPY, MODIFY, then say it was THEIRS!!!!

Quote: Originally Posted by VLRB20DET the rb20 is good it kills a sr20 anyday What an !d!ot...... The rb20 is a 6 and the sr20 is a 4, duh...... Of course it would it has 2 more cylinders.

mate they are both 2 L. and depending on the engine make more power than a rb20 get of the hash

Quote: mate they are both 2 L. and depending on the engine make more power than a rb20 get of the hash Yeah mate, nice one. Would have been good to be able to understand that but anyway, yes their both 2ltr. So what? As for the hash, stop whining like a little b!tch cause your jealous!!!!!! HA HA HA!!!!!!!!!!! Maybe if you save up enough you can have some too Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

hey guys a mate of mine has put $25k into his vl wich has a worked rb20 and is running 13.8's on 1 bar a stock rb25det with cooler and 1 bar will run the same if u can drive oh and id have an sr20 over an rb20 anyday

A street driven turbo'd car is better off with less big puffs than lots of little puffs. The RB20 is a good motor if you throw the money at its head and bottom end so you can use its top end rev potential. SR20 or rb20 for the street. Give me the fragile sr20 anyday. BUT........ I can't put up with the poxy 4 banger sound so I'll stick to the 3ltr. :P Rb25det's have no issues running slightly over 300rwkw. Rb20DET's running 300rwkw.. I can't say I've heard of one here in AUS with stock internals. They all seem to pop around 250-280rwkw.

the Rb20det is a grossly underated motor. It was Nissan's premiere motor until the rb26dett. The HR31 GTSR had a nics (inferior) version of the Rb20det (also known as the red top) These put out a factory 480bhp with the original turbo etc. The RB20's are the toughest of the rb's, having the strongest rods, shortest stroke, and very many design cues of the rb26. (interchangeable valves/springs, cam gears, heads, injector design etc.) I can get a complete low km turbo motor for $700, (and i have one lying in the shed) so why would i bother spending three times as much to convert a tired rb30? There are other factors to consider too; reliabilty. My r32 has proven time and time again that dfi stomps all over hei distributor systems. VL's tend to have temperamental crank angle sensors, and other ignition problems. I also get over 600kms to a 56l tank. a boosted Rb30 has no chance of competing in these two stakes. on a low budget, i believe that the twin cam route is a very wise option. And with the 4.34 ratio (same as import skylines) it would be quite faster than a stock vl turbo. Vl's weigh; 1294kg (turbo SL) and an r32 weighs 1260kg (series 1 coupe), 1290 (series 1 sedan, series 2 coupe) or 1320kg (series 2 sedan). If 4kg's gave such a significant power/weight advantage, i'd be stripping my car of everything. Silvertop Rb20dets have 160 flywheel kw standard, vlt's are 150kw. Yes the Vl has more torque, but torque isnt everything (if you think it is, get a turbo diesel or a bb V8) In a race, revs, torque spread and power range/bands, gear ratio's etc are all important. My stock r32 was faster than a mates stock vlt. and with a $1000 budget, my VL is going to be the fastest legit vl in town.

Quote: Originally Posted by mulkers The RB20's are the toughest of the rb's, having the strongest rods, shortest stroke, and very many design cues of the rb26. (interchangeable valves/springs, cam gears, heads, injector design etc.) RB26 rods and block are stronger. RB26 Valve springs are longer but they can be used in the 20. Head is completely different, the rb20t head runs small baby valves, they are not interchangable; the rb20det's ports are also very small. Quote: I can get a complete low km turbo motor for $700, (and i have one lying in the shed) so why would i bother spending three times as much to convert a tired rb30? Because peak power isn't everything. Average power is, unless your running a big high stall and setting it up for drag. Quote: I also get over 600kms to a 56l tank. a boosted Rb30 has no chance of competing in these two stakes. Well your doing better than nissan state the car gets. From factory they are rated to 10.5L/100km's. My Rb20DET did 10.6L/100km's and had done so for 4years before I pulled it out to drop the rb30det in. The RB30DET gets 11L/100km's. And yes its 'boosted'. Quote: And with the 4.34 ratio (same as import skylines) it would be quite faster than a stock vl turbo. Quote: Silvertop Rb20dets have 160 flywheel kw standard, vlt's are 150kw. Yes the Vl has more torque, but torque isnt everything (if you think it is, get a turbo diesel or a bb V8) yes thats right.. BUT.. Average power is everything for a streeter. Quote: In a race, revs, torque spread and power range/bands, gear ratio's etc are all important. My stock r32 was faster than a mates stock vlt. and with a $1000 budget, my VL is going to be the fastest legit vl in town. My mates VLT made 187rwkw on 13-14psi, 2.5" exhaust, no cat, stock ecu, stock airbox. Mine made 164rwkw on 15psi, 3" exhaust, cat, stock ecu, stock airbox. Mod for mod.. The VLT whoops the R32's arse, especially up and rolling. Stock vs stock.. yes the r32 does have it over the vlt but not by much. Factory times 14.9 for the R32, 15.1 for the VLT. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

To any of the guys running rb20's with front mounts in thier vls... Wats the general opinion on the best front mount size? Also to improve the drivability best diff ratio? 3.9 or 4.11

Lower the better for the rb20. Nissan have always released their rb20's with 4.3+ ratio's some 4.4's and i believe a 4.6. 4.11 minimum, go any longer and they feel lagier and less responsive.

doin a bit of research on rb20det's in to vl's, seems like the rb20det engine is and isn't a favoured conversion in2 a vl, looks like a lot of mixed opinionsand outcomes, im lookin at a nice easy turbo conversion that isnt gonna blow the budget,but at the same have a vl i can have a bit of fun in, im not lookin for a big laggy horse power machine at the moment just want some mild turbo power 200-250 hp and eventually improve on it, this might be a starting point for my project vl for further improvement later (when i have more cash)..any extra input on this would be good

VLT exh. manifold, vlt turbo, dump pipe, thicker headgasket, cheap fmic, vlt ecu or aftermarket. Unless the motors stuffed thats the way I'd go.

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Quote: Originally Posted by r31defect no, the vl's that went to newzealad had rb20e's in them, poo motors My first car was a VL with an RB20e in it, and they're a poo motor with a poo gearbox attached. I can imagine an RB20det with the 4.1+ diff ratios driving the same, sitting at 3000rpm in 5th to do 100km/h is unbearable. RB30s have so much more potential, even as a single cam, but if you go to twin cam there's even more to be had. I have a VL with a RB30E in it now btw, gear ratios are so much more comfortable (the only good thing about bad ratios is you can push the car really hard and not go so fast, RB30 doesn't let you do that and stay under 100km/h if you're going close to redline) Just to reinforce all this.. RB20 + highway speeds = ****ing terrible.

theres a guy that lived near my street and had a purple VL calais with an RB20DET conversion, i asked him how it drove and he said it drove so badly that he was getting beaten by standard 6cyl ford falcons and commodores that had no work done to them. he ended up selling the car at a huge loss and bought a standard RB30ET Calais. this shows that an RB30ET is WAY BETTER than an RB20DET. (im sure RB20DETs are a good motor in a smaller, lighter car but in a vl it just doesnt work properly)

Quote: Originally Posted by Stable excuse my ignorance but didnt we ship RB20DET VL's to New Zealand when we got the big 3L? they wern't rb20det they were rb20e's single cam non turbo slappers

after reading this post, it seems there may be pro's and cons of going to an rb20, eg fuel difference, rev's higher, tho would have to work more just to equal the rb30... imo if you want a twin cam why go down to rb20, the obvious choice is the rb25 from the a r33 or r34. dont waste money on anything older as they say do it right the first time. and they have a hell of alot of potential for performance and realiability. but personally i wouldnt go past the mighty rb30et, :-)