Quote: Originally Posted by 86SLVLT [View Post] i wonder if tafe does courses for basic welding & fabrication. is that the dent on the drivers strut tower where the battery goes? i tapped all of mine out and dollyed them flat I'm talking about the indent under the battery tray on the edge. But I have had to cut that whole bit out though because the metal was to thin from rust under the tray and i couldnt shape the edge right. So i just want to weld in a new flat piece under the tray (tray is gone) that also has that edge bent into it which saves me having to shape it and use copius amounts of bog. Tafe does do courses. I've done arc, mig and oxy welding as a part of a diesel fitting pre apprenticeship course. I'm really good at welding but i havent done any actual metal fab so i just have to use common sense and take my time.

Quote: Originally Posted by gold-vlt [View Post] Care to elaborate? What tools and techniques do i need to use? All i've really got to cut is a 4" grinder with thin cutting wheel. I need the rolled edge to match the factory shape. I'm sure you know which edge i'm talking about. To get that shape use a hammer n dolly (i use cross pein and half moon dolly), dont weld on the edge or youll never round your panel off. What i do is tack my panel in and as im tacking i shape it and cool it off so its doesnt shrink. For the rest of the dents use a hammer and dolly again, try not to bash the living **** out of the metal or youll just stretch it. Most importantly when welding and grinding try keeping the panel as cool as possible or you will be using "copious amounts of bog" As for for dressing the rails, what i do is weld the skirt and the rail where they join, **** those tabs off that sit on top of the bolts and if you like replace the bolts with nicer looking hex keys or something. If you need more advice just pm me.

Quote: Originally Posted by SL1987 [View Post] As for for dressing the rails, what i do is weld the skirt and the rail where they join, **** those tabs off that sit on top of the bolts and if you like replace the bolts with nicer looking hex keys or something. Thanks mate. If you come by any photo's of rails you've done would you mind putting them up on here? I'd like to see how it's done and what the finished result is. I'd like to grind mine down, weld the 3 layers on the edge, smooth it, weld up the drain holes and swap the bolts. Main reason is because of the amount of **** that gets caught in there and looks dirty and causes rust.

That's exactly how I'm doing mine, looks more neat and simple and best of all its legal! As for photos I have a few but don't really want to post as there cars I've done for other shops..

Mate I'm sure the owners wouldn't mind as long as the number plates arnt showing any pics would be great to help people with there build

Any progress pictures ?

Ok so i'm going to be doing some welding in my engine bay tomorrow. Just a few small holes to begin with. Does anyone have some tips on welding thin sheet metal and what techniques to use to fill holes and bridge slightly larger ones? also need to know the best place to clamp the earth to and how close it must be to the actual part that is being welded. I'm using a weldmaster mig 150 with 0.6mm solid wire and argoshield light shielding gas. If anyone good at welding can help me that would be great. I'll be putting up some photo's of the welding and paint prep as i go and also some of cutting out and replacing the cowl panel and battery tray area's.

Just cut my cowl panel out. Is rare spares the cheapest and best place to buy replacement ones from? i've heard some dont fit up right as they are not shaped/pressed right?

Quote: Originally Posted by vh sle rb [View Post] The best an easiest way too bend the metal the way ur asking is to use some angle iron with some solid door hindges welded either end, than weld a Leaver bar to it an bolt it to a sterdy bench. There are heaps of vids on you tube about panel beating, look up NZ penal beater there is a guy that kinda looks like eminem that has heaps of vids an he is one of the few beater that can still manipulate metal. Most beaters will hamer it close than use bog not many beaters r as good as this guy anymore. ---------- Post added 02-11-12 at 16:22 ---------- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdLDOkEPFgA ---------- Post added 02-11-12 at 16:28 ---------- Watch all he's vids an if u still have Q's after that than move on an do some thing else, let some one else do it :-) Yeah i've already been watching all his videos. I also made a slapper out of an old file like he does to tap down the high spots while bringing up the low spot with the dolly pressed up underneath. I'm pretty much sorted for the straightening it's mainly the welding that could be a problem.Just having trouble getting it dialled in to get a perfect weld on my scrap steel. it's either too hot and flat or too cold and high with not enough penetration though the other side. I also need to know how to fill holes.

Do you guys tack weld your firewall lip once cut of leavings gaps in between or do you stop start seam weld it? and what do you use to grind it down smooth and shape it? ---------- Post added 08-11-12 at 10:43 ---------- I'm going to smooth it with a 40 grit flap disc i think..

hows these pics

it does look alot different now though

Hahahaha ^^^

Quote: Originally Posted by gold-vlt [View Post] Just cut my cowl panel out. Is rare spares the cheapest and best place to buy replacement ones from? i've heard some dont fit up right as they are not shaped/pressed right? i just did one from rear spears fitted prob 95% little bit of work need but now looks great to not have any rust Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by mr_nvs [View Post] i just did one from rear spears fitted prob 95% little bit of work need but now looks great to not have any rust Ok sweet. good to hear. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by boosted_wagon [View Post] Hahahaha ^^^ you laughing because it looks nothing likethe pic any more

Correct

To anyone wanting their engine bay taken back to bare metal dont be tight and get it soda blasted! I've just about strip disc'd and sanded my entire bay back to bare metal and i will never do it again! what a cvnt of a job. the factory paint had 1000's of runs, everywhere.. all over the firewall near and between every annoying bump or press. just everywhere. and surface rust in places you can't access like between the firewall and the rear chassis rails. To make the job worse im stuck with a ****ed welder that wont arc unless the wire speed is right up and when it does work its too ****in hot and blows holes in the thin steel. weldmaster wont fix it properly even though it's covered by warranty and brand new never used. stupid ****s dont want to know about it.

Where are use planing on mounting wiper washer bottle, radiator overflow and power steering bottles? I was thinking of getting 3 from Ariel (red star fabrication) but am unsure where I'll put them

Quote: Originally Posted by VL-EXEC [View Post] Where are use planing on mounting wiper washer bottle, radiator overflow and power steering bottles? I was thinking of getting 3 from Ariel (red star fabrication) but am unsure where I'll put them i was going to put the washer bottle next the the wiper motor if it fits or get the overflow/wiper 2 in 1 bottle and mount it behind the drivers headlight or chassis rail at the very front and run the washer hose down the front behind the vac ball or behind the guard back up to the T-piece at the jets if i can.