Did you paint the hubs and put the rims on before the paint was hard enough ? seen that before lol

LOL the wheels never came off when it got painted , didnt have the puzzle nut . but then i had to get 2 new front tyres so i got them all smashed off and replaced. playing safe should i just take it too a tyre shop ??

maybe you could try putting the wheel nuts back on loosely and then ower the car back on the ground slowly and see if the weight of the car losens them then jack it up and try get them off

Quote: Originally Posted by PSIWPN NZ [View Post] maybe you could try putting the wheel nuts back on loosely and then ower the car back on the ground slowly and see if the weight of the car losens them then jack it up and try get them off Hehe have you been a dairy farmer before ? something i'd try But yeah might pay to take it to a tyre shop or have you got a mate that's got a rattle gun ? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by PSIWPN NZ [View Post] maybe you could try putting the wheel nuts back on loosely and then ower the car back on the ground slowly and see if the weight of the car losens them then jack it up and try get them off hmmm thats a good idea ! was gona try something a lil more wreckless LOL but ill give it a shot tomorrow maybe but nah im sh** outa luck with someone owning a rattle gun. so if i cant get it off tomorrow then tyre shop it is thanks guys for the advice ! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by UNONT2 [View Post] should really adjust them on the rear drums in the little windows on the top,with a screw driver I am pretty sure (could be wrong tho) that VL Drum Diffs don't have those little peep holes on the backing plate, my old diff didnt. So the only way to adjust the handbrake is using the adjuster on the cable itself. My Gregory's manual says the same. The disc brake diffs however, Do have the window in them, which allows you to adjust the handbrake shoes. The Drum Diffs in the VL's have a self-adjusting mechanism in the drum. if you take the drum off you'll see a rod with a toothed gear on it, if you flick it with a screwdriver it expands (or contracts, depending which way you turn it), and pushes the 2 brake shoes away from each other (to tighten), or loosening it will mean the springs pulls them closer together. (Take one of your drums off and have a look, you should be able to figure out how it all works). Anyway, that so-called self-adjusting mechanism is a metal plate that flicks that gear so it keeps the shoes against the drum (just touching), so that when you hit your footbrake, the shoes don't have to move far. But that self-adjusting mechanism is rubbish, it doesn't work too well (sorry I don't actually know why). it doesnt adjust itself very well. So Ryan the only practical way to tighten the handbrake is to tighten it at the cable. Get the car off the ground, leave wheels on, handbrake down, pump the brake pedal a few times (this is for the self adjuster to adjust - if it works), loosen the nuts on the cable, pull the handbrake up 3 clicks, then tighten the nuts until you feel a slight drag on the rear wheels. (when the handbrake is down, spin the wheels a few times by hand so you get a feel of how 'loose' they are, then once you start to tighten the handbrake cable you'll be able to feel the difference once there is a bit of drag on them). don't over tighten the cable - you must still be able to spin the wheels by hand. you can kind of play it by ear too, when you are spinning the wheels just listen closely - at first you'll only hear friction at a few points during one spin, then as it gets tighter you'll hear friction right through one spin. Make sure you spin both wheels as sometimes one may get tighter quicker than the other, in that case you want to get it at a point where the tighter one is not too tight and the looser one is not too loose. (if they're wildly different IE one locks up while the other one is still very loose - then you have problems ) sorry my explanations arent the best lol Sam Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Sam . you are a VL GENIUS ! wish i could just drive it too you and then work on it , itd take such less time LOL normally what happens is me and my mate just try and undo things and see where it goes from there ! but at the moment biggest problem is getting the wheels off , there like ceased on. used a center pole and sledgehammer a few times and a bit of brakecleen to loosen it off but no luck there. running out of things to do , next step is too take it somewhere like a tyre shop.. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Haha thanks but I wouldnt say genius lol. I cant take credit for all of that, a lot of it is stuff I've learnt from others. Oh and it would take much MORE time for me to do, not less I cant even get my own car sorted out let alone anyone elses. spray ****loads of crc or wd40 on/around the hub, stuff works wonders sometimes. Then do what Hayden (PSIWPN) said - put nuts back on loosely then slowly lower car to ground, see if the wheels come loose. otherwise take it to a tyre shop they should be able to get them off. very last resort is the old angle grinder Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Unbolt the whole diff and replace it lol best excuse to get a 28 spline LSD Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by SIKVLT [View Post] Unbolt the whole diff and replace it lol best excuse to get a 28 spline LSD i like the way you think mike ! it sounds like you know your way around a VL sam , but no worries you'l have it finished one day like me LOL ! wooops kinda lowered it with no nuts and just the wheel loose hahha thinkn it might come off , but of course it didnt. well next step would be to spray s*** loads of CRC on it but then again ... a 28 spline LSD sounds alot better where could i find one ???? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

haha why only 28 lol 'couldn't get my wheels off so i solved the problem by throwing out whole diff and replacing with ford 9 inch with detroit locker 35 spline axles. oh and some new wheels' Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

sounds like i got symptoms of a new diff here ...how do i treat it ?? LOL

given what you have tried already, you sure someone has not welded the wheel to the hub?

LOL that would be EPIC but nah the alloy's just got stuck to the steel drum brakes , happens all the time just over 3 years or so LOL so make sure you can take your wheels off and not leave them on forever !

If your rim is stuck to the drum (and your drum doesnt have a massive lip on the inside) you might have luck at trying to pry the wheel and drum off together? Then get some other drums and Cepters Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

they got a mullet to the wheel . eventually they came off , but mmmmmmmm cepters !! i can only dream at the moment Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

if you want some bad enough you will find some,rare spares sells them or sayers in auckland

good to hear you finally got those wheels of and yeah what danny said sayers would be your best bet

wonders of what alot of wd40 and a mullet can do next thing on the list is to sort out my lifters and get them quiet again haha Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

so any updates or upgrades in progress