Rob do it, you know you want to!

Rob, I'd love to buy your VL, but I'm almost finished building my own race car for ozmod If however you ever deceide to finish it, give me a call. Ank, the bottom end pictured is an RB30, and has a 25 head attached to it with a GT35, and resides in a circuit car. The guys that own the car are the ones that developed it, as they seen some cap fretting and walk on the last few engine tear downs, they did it for reliability and for the hell of it rather than outright hp need. The only tube car that has anything to do with Godzilla is The nissan infinity of scotts, which phill laird is doing a VQ35 for, and Mark has recently taken care of the tuning of Tony Wedlocks car and fitted a Vipec to it. I have heard him speak about someday hoping to build a tube car, but having just installed a new clutch in the GTR, I'm pretty sure he is just concentrating n getting that into the number one GTR spot. The Vl you speak of is Justins, which is just a single cam RB30, and also not tube frame. I don't see the "point" of trying to keep things off the net, over the years I've learnt a wealth of knowledge from forums, and if more people were forthcoming with decent information, I might have saved myself 100k in working things out for myself. What is there to fear?? If someone can afford to build a 2000hp RB/RD 2.83765 whatever, if they can't find the info themselves they can afford to pay someone to do it, so they'll still get to number one if thats their goal. I'm over all the secrets in drag racing. Run what ya brung and hope ya brung enough 6BOOST Final pricing yet to be decided but billet main caps, girdle, studs and crank scraper at this stage will be about $2500-$2750. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by 6BOOST I'm over all the secrets in drag racing. Run what ya brung and hope ya brung enough Amen Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I don't understand the need for an aftermarket girdle? The stock VL one is pretty good i've never seen a crank or girdle let go in a VL due to hp at all it's keeping the block/head together and the block in one piece which seems to be the major issues that come well before crank or girdle. Quote: Originally Posted by 6BOOST The Vl you speak of is Justins, which is just a single cam RB30, and also not tube frame I know the engine/box combination but i thought it was going to be full chassis? Can you tell us anything about it or is it hush hush?? It sounds pretty exciting.. none of that twin cam crap Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

do the water galeries line up on a rd with a rb head 6boost? Quote: Originally Posted by ATMO_BT1 I don't understand the need for an aftermarket girdle? The stock VL one is pretty good i've never seen a crank or girdle let go in a VL due to hp at all it's keeping the block/head together and the block in one piece which seems to be the major issues that come well before crank or girdle. the girdle comes out when they put the main caps in so they do a sheet metal girdle instead to help keep the stiffness up instead of just having the main caps think od it as double support Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I'm no guru on RB engines, people such as maatouk and rigoli, rajab and jpc have the runs on the board. I'm just sharing my own views and opinions, so sorry if they are not in line with what others believe As far as a main girdle goes, the reason for the girdle, is that if your gonna go to the hassle of doing billet caps, you may as well go all the way and do a girdle. The caps in the photo could be run with no girdle, they could also be run just as 2 bolt despite being drilled for 4 bolt. I know plenty of RB's have made more than 1000hp with standard girdle, but as I said, the guys that developed the one above seen fretting on the caps in their circuit car. Also how many RB's make that power and stay together long enough to find out if there are any problems?? I know Rayglasses 2J celica did 50-100 passes on an engine, at 1500+hp. How many RB's do that?? So saying the RB's don't NEED it, and saying they should HAVE it, are 2 different things I don't know how much work is involved in fitting the RB head to RD block, like I said, I'm not guru, however it can be done, I'm pretty sure the head bolts line up, I've heard the RB30 crank goes in (pointless, as at the level of needing the block you'd use a custom made billet crank anyway), and I think you need to run an external oil feed and retrun. I'll find out more in the coming weeks. 6BOOST Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

What are you guys talkin about .. he said it would have 2, 900 hp turbo's. so of course it will have 2000 hp do the math! ... lol

well 2 900hp turbos only gives you 1800 lol

Quote: Originally Posted by ANK well 2 900hp turbos only gives you 1800 lol he is obviously going to wind them up abit mate

thats amazing say for eg t51r 900 hp im guessing thats max power that can be made with it

Quote: Originally Posted by joe blo he is obviously going to wind them up abit mate Makes sense... get another 100hp out of the turbo than its rated for Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

or put abit of oil on the tyres when you dyno it so you get abit of wheelspin so it reads higher. ive worked in the shops for years mates so ive picked up a few tricks over time.

you sound like the sort of bloke that leaves the customer scratching there head after they take there car to another shop and it has no where near the power but of course the good old "has to be the same dyno" quote pops up that saying must save people like you

wouldnt it read lower with wheel slip?

of course it would

what wheelspin... http://autospeed.com/cms/title_The-D...0/article.html (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_The-Dynapack-Dyno/A_0930/article.html) all dynos should be like this i rekon.

I've used the PWR hub dyno with a couple of cars, and it can be a dog if u dont have all the spacers and plates etc.

Quote: Originally Posted by joe blo or put abit of oil on the tyres when you dyno it so you get abit of wheelspin so it reads higher. ive worked in the shops for years mates so ive picked up a few tricks over time. uuuhhhhh.........

Quote: Originally Posted by joe blo or put abit of oil on the tyres when you dyno it so you get abit of wheelspin so it reads higher. ive worked in the shops for years mates so ive picked up a few tricks over time. Ha ha epic fail........

thanks for the new sig joeblo you douche haha