just been playing in the engine bay and polishing some of the car (bonnet down, the rest to go!)
when the cooler was fitted i slapped it all back together thinking i'd fix up the relocation of spark leads / vacum lines later. fark what a prick of a job! the spark leads are too short to comfortably run around the front of the engine. i did it anywa as it needs to be done but what a prick! also i shifted the accelerator cable from running across the top of the top pipe so now it runs below. looks much better. now i just have to have a chat to enzed and get the vacum lines to run behind the engine. on the upside it makes a big difference visually.
ah, the polishing hasn't made a heap of difference and the spark leads are a tad short to run around the front of the engine. it removes clutter and makes the crossover look much cleaner but no before and afters yet. also still haven't moved the rubber lines that run are bolted onto the standard crossover. need to get some very long rubber hosing for that.
i have however finally replaced the rocker cover - intake mani rubber L bend which has been leccy taped since i bought the car lol. went to 2 wreckers yards and could only find 2 of them! so now i have a spare. obviously a desireable item from wrecks.
---------- Post added 01-06-10 at 23:16 ----------
it should be running stock boost.... Jamie at JDCustoms told me with the 3 " front pipe and exhaust system it should gain a few PSI so should run between 7-9 however my boost gauge is reading 5-6psi. i think there might be a crimp between the firewall and the gauge but don't know????? its a mechanical boost gauge.
so yeah anyway its stock boost no tap or spring changes.
I'm running the same kit on my wag but found that the factory pressure release valve was opening up everytime I came on boost I ended up taking it out and putting a blank in it's place but I run between 10 -12 psi
I just saw yours still in place and thought how you were running with it still in ?
But anyway all good end rant lol
the relief valve on the inlet mani? i will look into it thanks SIKVLT
went down to a random dyno night tonight. i found out about it through a friend of a friend in a magna forum and the magic facebook. i ran into AFGweapon aka baz, nice to meet you ever so briefly, and marko which was a suprise. $40 and a few hours later i was on the dyno and - heres the youtube vid - (http://www.youtube.com/user/siroller)
my last dyno was in shepparton at springnats and i pulled 149 r/whp or about 111r/wkw
at that stage the only mods were a 3" front pipe back exhaust from JDC and a fresh engine. it should also be said the temperature was something in the 30's. i ran tonight in about 12deg/c heat and with the addition of a GKtech front mount. i let it warm up to full operating temp and pulled a best of 139.9r/wkw on standard boost.
i was pretty stoked to see csuch a large gain. the bystanders were puzzled at first why i was so excited since their GT-R's were ulling 270+ . towards midnight a few guys were skating up and down the road or at least spooling, it was raining outside and the police rocked up with 3 cars and blocked in the court. it all went well, they had a stern word to some fool they heard bigmouthing how the police wouldn't know he had been hooning and then spoke to the event organisers before leaving maybe 15mins later. i skidaddled after that not wanting to stick around, had a bit of a fright that a legal night out was going to turn into a defect station!
a few pics -
[COLOR="Silver"]
edit - delete double post... duh
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
hey sikvlt. i dummied up the overboost valve but didn't see any difference with the boost gauge. should probably spend the 10-15 minutes to check it isn't crimped somewhere...
on another note the other week i spent $170 at the wreckers and picked up 2 x marinello red front 1/4's and a nosecone. all are in good nick with slight surface rust (if that, more paint chipping / cracking / rubbing). first step was clean em all up and give them a closer inspection which showed up a little ding on my nosecone but not as bad as the one on there now. i then hit any of the rust / paint chip affected areas with a wire wheel and used rust converter on them. let it dry for a few days, bang on some killrust (fire engine red) then just cause i had some laying around, banged on some underbody deadener. these babies aren't ever going to rust!
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that ladies and gentlemen is how you stop surface rust on your panels. the underbody spray is a bit overboard and i won't use it on the nosecone but the point remains. this is pretty much the same method i followed on my tailshaft tunnel and a method you can use on pretty much any part of your car. killrust paint doesn't require primer and if allowed to dry properly forms a very resistant coating.
these will eventually be fitted when i rip the entire front end off and get in and detail the wheel wells / struts / etc etc (anything i can get my hands on!)
well everything is packed up and boxed away in my shed now except for my tools.
i fixed the boost issue, turns out that the vac line i used ran straight from the inlet mani to some little gold thing hanging off of the back of the manifold (not the fuel pressure regulater or carbon canister, something else.) seems theres a T piece in this hose already (as well as the one i put in for the gauge) and when i installed the gauge i guess i must have pulled the line out of place, the whole time the vac line has been loosing pressure because the second T piece isn't connected! so now its fixed up and is making the correct boost (hovers around 5 in normal driving but has run as high as 8-9)
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
getting the timer fitted tommorrow between 9am and 12pm. sik
goddamn that centrecap was a fluke find. i got some suspension work done a while back on my VY and though pedders were rorting me so i went to a back alley suspension joint which had a lot of classics getting done (thought that was an indicator of good things) i saw that their air compressor hose reel was a momo status wheel! so it dawned on me a few weeks back to call them up. i had to google streetview them moving along the path i took to figure out their name and street adress before i yellow pages'd them. the store owner and i negotiated and now i have a centre cap. WIN!
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
since i have been away i have amassed some chrome caps, some rx7 series 5 calipers (4 point) which i hope to get rebuilt and fit with one of vhr32's kits. also dad has his 18 year old restoration nearing re-registration (was completed and then driven for maybe 10 years before the rego was allowed to lapse.) once his car is back on the road he plans to pull my vl apart. address a leaking rack (again) and get the moulds and bumpers 2 packed by the joint that did my vlc.
and i also bought a second set of momo status's which don't require re-rolling / surfacing / gutter rash fill in and paint like my current ones do.
- mitch (from london)
proof my old man is more fanatical than me, (it's niot even his car!)
---------- Post added 07-11-10 at 10:23 ----------
so he tells me -
moulds are stripped off with bumpers for painting
cargo area and seats stripped
interior (inc. headlining) pressure washed clean (he knows the danger of getting the electrics wet after we waited 3 days for my n/a to dry out after pressure washing the bay)
i rang him and had a chat. the rx7 brakes have arrived ("yeah theres a big parcel on the floor here for you") and he tells me he wants to sound deaden the rear 1/4s. i tried to discourage it by telling him its a weekender, and its so bloody noisy anyway that the diff and road noises are just another joy of driving it. in fact its the occasional banging which helped me identify the tailshaft problem. he may or may not put a few sheets of dynamat in there (i told him if he is going to do it theres over half of a bulk pack left in my parts bin somewhere)
so all fun and games back home. anyone able to help me with the cargo area side 1/4 trimmings? the chipboard backing is so brittle it's impractical to use. maybe a fibreglass or repro copy? i think a glass copy with a vinyl wrap will be the best choice in the end.
hot damn man
as to your question progress or a step back:
progress if it is on the road relatively soon
step back if its going to be a while before its drivable again
yeh man your dads awsome .. good bloke ..
looking great man its just make it more neat...
well done keep it up..
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
it will be a month or so but i am not booked to be back in the country unitl a few days before xmas and i plan to extend my trip anyway. so no big deal. i will try to get some pictures of the brougham which is under covers in the back of the 3rd and 4th pictures.
i have contacted a friend to ask if he thinks he can fibreglass up the rear cargo area sides and rear plates for me with the intention of refitting them vinyl wrapped with standard plugs. waiting to hear back can't wait! its about time i made some progress on the cargo area. i have been thinking about it for ages now.
