Quote: Originally Posted by HDT086 Darkstar good luck on your project be very interesting what the final result is What ECU you planning on using? in regards to your question, copied from 1 post. ECU Microtech ECU - $500 2nd Hand - Forum

-Thread Double Cleaned and re-opened. -Keep it on topic guy's, ban stick is out... -From all the mods.

Hey guys, Thanks for the support and critical analysis of the setup. I don't mind people posting negative comments about the setup while providing an educated reason as to why it may or may not work. Please keep harsh comments about other users to the PM an respect what this thread has to offer the community. As you know it has been locked once and i have pleaded with the mods to keep it open so that the information already contained can be viewed in context. Ill be stripping some RB30s this week and ill post some pics of the insides etc. Hopefully ill have at least one or two decent bottom ends to worth with and get this project built!

when u pull down a rb30 can u take a few pics and write what u have just undone step by step?

have a look on Keas website think there is a glide in specials section seems quite cheap

Hey Costa, sorry if I added to any of the problem, I edited my posts yesterday before it was locked, but hopefully it stays on track now anyway, I wish you the best of luck with it and will follow your progress By no means a judgement of your engine, I just noticed that you mentioned using a thick cometic gasket with the 25 head. You probably already know, but with a stock thickness head gasket, a 25 head on a NA RB30 block gives you 8.3:1 compression roughly. The thinnest cometic gasket is .051", which will drop that to more like 8.1-8.2:1, so unless your aiming for somewhere in the 7's, a thicker gasket won't be needed Cheers............................6BOOST Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Good to see this thread re opened.... I'm keen to see it happen...

I had an awesomly long post that i was writing but comp froze, so here is a breif summary. -ECU - You could use a factory one, and get sam cornell to tinker with it. -Injectors; if you change ecu, with a dohc head (rb25s ruin different impedence to 20s and 26s though) you could use Series 4/5 rx7 injectors. 550cc, cleaned and tested are $50 from any good rotary workshop. -Bottom end; a look, with new bearings, gaskets and rod bolts should suffice for the budget -Rods are pretty strong; good for ~550 nm of torque. Power is not what breaks things; torque is. (high rpm can too ) if you can feed the boost in gradually (such as eboost2) you will save yourself a lot of time/money/stress. -Pistons are normally the first thing to fail and the first thing to be replaced. They are also one of the more expensive components after machining and cleaning, so i wouldn't bother yet. -If you swap between dohc and sohc you will need different looms/ comp maps/ throttle cables/ radiator hoses etc. -25 spline diffs are custard. They may as well have been made out of cardboard. 78 series BW are hard to weld, without taking the gears out of the housing, by which time it is easier to put in a spool anyway. Get a pair of 28 spline axles and spooled centre. A mate and i welded the diff in his 25 spline vl diff. It lasted roughly 15km and 2 burnouts on 205 bridgy re88s. The same team welded up the diffs on both my brothers and my own drift cars. Neither have failed in 12 months of daily driving, weekend drifting. it will save you time/money/stress in the end. I have seen spooled 25 splines last 2 days of daily driving with street tyres before shearing axles. with slicks, converter, etc, they will not last one pass. I like the idea of a fast car on a budget. There was a 9 sec car for 9g in zoom a while ago; a TC cortina with a 351. It would be awesome to see it with a vl. For those who say you wont be able to do it; There is a lad in town who has an 11 sec car for $110! an 11.6 XE falcon, at heathcote recently. Good luck. Keep us updated. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Alright - block is stripped pretty much - Bearings and bores are pretty good from first glance - no copper showing on the bearings and crank is un-marked. Ill size up the rods and bearings and see if they need changing. I'm tempted just to get it running as is without rooting around with machinists and so forth. Engine oil was full of CRUD.... so much coking on the block and head - it was a very neglected motor in terms of servicing. More pics to come tonight or tomorrow. I also just bought a new shell pretty much complete but banged up in terms of body repair. Needs a lot of hammer and dolly to get it straight and some bog but she will be alright. Its a stripped BT1 shell with motor and manual gearbox in it already. Hoping to sell the drive line off and pay for the shell so its FREE and for some bog to get it all straight. Its got no Power Steering so hopefully she will fly straight the line after the transbrake lets loose!

time to burn the lpg government rebate gives u an extra 2 g to play with

hey costa, hope my shell serves u well and runs the 10, good luck man!!!

All the best mate im very intrigued but.. Have you ever thought about what happens after you run the 10? Your left with a cheap shell, half arsed engine and 10k out of pocket Even worse if you dont run it! Not to sound too negative but i do hope you run it, and i hope the feelings well worth 10k lol. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I'd be reasonably confident you could sell a confirmed 10 sec VL for 10k

The car is not being built to be sold - driveline will be transfered into another shell as a weekender if i want to drive it on the street. Ide rather be 10k out of pocket, run 10s and learn something along the way and say i built it, than pay someone 5k to spin spanners in my engine bay and another 5k to get a ****ty low 13sec pass. If the engine goes, im left with a dud turbo that was cheap anyway and ill carry over the rest into a 9sec project or use another motor and turbo. Ive done the costings and i stand to loose 1-2k at worst case scenario if i blow up the diff, turbo and engine. Line me up on the drag strip and put your money where your mouth is Quote: Originally Posted by sleeprVLT All the best mate im very intrigued but.. Have you ever thought about what happens after you run the 10? Your left with a cheap shell, half arsed engine and 10k out of pocket Even worse if you dont run it! Not to sound too negative but i do hope you run it, and i hope the feelings well worth 10k lol. Ok Ive done some tables and I'm analysing the data. Biggest Budget Blowers in order - Transmission Installed - Turbo $500 - $1500 Budget - teetering on the edge at this stage - really depends on trans cost fitted. - ECU to fire 6 coils individually (might be able to get away with the stock igniter and stock coils). - Injectors and Rail to suit depending on application. RB25 Twin cam vs RB30 SOHC - RB25 twin cam wins hands down in the costing just for the engine rebuild as they are great flowing head standard and the cams should be good enough to run a high 10. GTR head might be used still depending on how things nut out with the reconditioning and build up, its about $500-$700 off the RB25 costing but cheap top feed injectors as side feeds are way too damn dear! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

good luk mate u seem to be doing some home work and ur rite about the forged gear it only take 1 part to let go and its all over

Is nitrous an option ur interested in playing with?

strictly NO NOS unless its to get the turbo spooled on the converter - but i dont think i will need it for a ~4k stally. and roughly T66 sized turbo. This challenge isnt easy.... its very involving and pretty hardcore to think it all out so it does work and is reliable. I could easily do it for 15k... maybe even run a high 9 sec pass for that amount too depending on the turbo!

9s for 15k doesnt sound as good as 10s for 10k either lol

good luck mate and i was going to do the same thing.. and still am but it's going to cost me more now cause i want it to be pretty tough cause i don't want to keep fixing it all the time and i thnk 15k will do it and should get a high 9 so still not to bad i guess...

Microtech ECU Engine on stand - Ready to Strip Cruddy Head Cruddy Rocker Cover Cruddy Thermostat Housing Long Motor BLOCK LOOKS GOOD! BONUS NEW-ISH WATER PUMP LOL Pulling the balancer off Timing Belt Timing Belt - Put a stud here for twincam - already tapped! Scrape the decks! Needs to be modified for VCT - more material added and some removed Con rod Bearing - OK! Big End Journal - OK! Cylinder Bore - Factory Hone Marks 20 years on! Cylinder Bore - Factory Hone Marks 20 years on! Piston - Dirty but OK! Piston - Dirty but OK! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.