thanks Kyle, so in the end your opinion would be as long as you get a high quality core it doesn't matter the fin style, as the differences on street would be negligable?

The difference IMO on anything under 400rwhp would probably be unmeasurable. You'd def make more power spending $800 on something else. 6BOOST

[QUOTE=6BOOST]It might have something to do with you using synthetic oil in a new engine, the rings don't bed in and its is considered a big no no, you should always run mineral oil in a fresh engine for at least 2000k's, at least in street applications anyway. Another thing may be ring gaps, which you can't do anything about now, and the size of the breathers. Because air speed through smaller breatehrs is higher, it often sucks out more oil with the air, increase the breather size, and it often brings the oil levels down. However this wouldn't just show up with a rebuild unless you've increased power/performance a lot over your last setup. Also, the oil restrictors are located in the block, not the head, and yes, its a good idea to make them smaller at the time of your rebuild, however this wouldn't be the cause of your sudden increase of breathing unless you went to a bigger oil pump and are really ringing the neck of this thing. thanks mate. have prob been using mobil 1 for 1000kms or so, with running in oil for 1000kms before that... will def be changing it asap. would this effected the rings bedding in?? so if i increse the breathers it will prob slow the amount of oil being passed?? coz im pretty sure the engine was built pretty sweet...i can ask my mate who built it fro the tolerances he used?? power wise its making 227rwkw@14 psi compared to 185 before...so its a bit of a jump but not huge. will be boosting it up to 20ish in the future should i be wary(already upgraded support systems)?? there was no modding of the restrictors, and just standard oil pump if this helps?? cheers dale

Hi kyle On a turbo does it matter what side the oil in and oil out are on I got a low mount and looks like the oil return is on the top Know what i mean?.

Quote: Originally Posted by Oddysee Hi kyle On a turbo does it matter what side the oil in and oil out are on I got a low mount and looks like the oil return is on the top Know what i mean?. Oil return should be on the bottom.

yes it should be on the bottom but if the centre has been turned around, it could be on the top but the return has to be on the bottom usually, oil feed is a small hole and return is a big hole

and is it true oil feed MUST be on the direct top, in order for the oil to adequately cover the bearings upon entering the turbo?

Quote: Originally Posted by TroyVK yes it should be on the bottom but if the centre has been turned around, it could be on the top but the return has to be on the bottom usually, oil feed is a small hole and return is a big hole Return is always bigger, As it carries both air and oil or airated oil.

The oil RETURN will be the larger hole of the 2, and must face the bottom, it shouldn't point on anymore than a 15deg angle, or oil will pool and cake the core causing rapid wear and early failure. Unbolt the core and spin it around for the correct orientation. Kyle.

gday kyle, just the same question as before but regarding a different turbo... thge turbo in question is a t04z with 1.00 rear, when could i expect boost?

I got a question 6BOOST (if i may); im looking at making a safe 300rwKw further down the track and was wondering what plenum would best suit me? I don't want a large spool time and would like the knowledge that my engine won't lean out on any one particular cylinder. Ill be using a GT35/40, the cars a manual and all the other kit is upto the job.

Nugget, with a 1.00 split rear housing on a 26/30 I'd think maybe around 4000rpm, +/- 100rpm. burchenal, My personal favourite is the Rajab plenum, I have flow tested all the manifolds on the market, and it is the most even bar none, within 3-4 cfm per runner. It also uses the NA runners not the turbo runners, which while being longer and slightly smaller, actually flow more than the turbo lower half by 5-7 cfm as well. The plenum is small, and I can tell you its the same non ported manifold they run on the race car to run 8.3's. There is much talk about short runner intake manifolds not loosing any low down power or spool, and without doing back to back dyno testing on an RB30 I can't show you a dyno graph, however I have done an RB25 with a greddy vs stock intake with plasmaman top half, and the greddy was 400rpm later to make 20psi than the plasmaman on the long stock lower runners. Also if you need any more indictaion, what does almost every production engine on earth, turbo or not have in runner length?? Thats right, pretty long hey, I doubt the big guys spend millions on development and get it wrong. 300rwkw will be a piece of cake for any of the plenums on the market, the above is only my personal preference and opinion, and the final decision must lie with you. Out of interest, Tony Agius with one of my GT35 kits went 9.97@133 on 23psi with a stock rajab intake 2 weeks ago;o) Cheers..............................kyle.

thanks kyle, yeah i think ill be going with the rajab plenum mainly due to the even flow rates and the power their cars have pulled. and also great thread, its good to be able to ask someone with the know a question and not get the "do a search" reply.

Quote: Originally Posted by 6BOOST Nugget, with a 1.00 split rear housing on a 26/30 I'd think maybe around 4000rpm, +/- 100rpm. burchenal, My personal favourite is the Rajab plenum, I have flow tested all the manifolds on the market, and it is the most even bar none, within 3-4 cfm per runner. It also uses the NA runners not the turbo runners, which while being longer and slightly smaller, actually flow more than the turbo lower half by 5-7 cfm as well. The plenum is small, and I can tell you its the same non ported manifold they run on the race car to run 8.3's. There is much talk about short runner intake manifolds not loosing any low down power or spool, and without doing back to back dyno testing on an RB30 I can't show you a dyno graph, however I have done an RB25 with a greddy vs stock intake with plasmaman top half, and the greddy was 400rpm later to make 20psi than the plasmaman on the long stock lower runners. Also if you need any more indictaion, what does almost every production engine on earth, turbo or not have in runner length?? Thats right, pretty long hey, I doubt the big guys spend millions on development and get it wrong. 300rwkw will be a piece of cake for any of the plenums on the market, the above is only my personal preference and opinion, and the final decision must lie with you. Out of interest, Tony Agius with one of my GT35 kits went 9.97@133 on 23psi with a stock rajab intake 2 weeks ago;o) Cheers..............................kyle. hey kyle have been a big fan of your work and i read the above in this thread on page 1 i think and after making 440atw with my 35/40 and COFFIN plenum with turbo runners on 26psi i decided to get a rajab and do a back to back experiment,and guess what...........you are spot on man we got a lot more response(1.06 rear) and 450 on only 23psi but the power curve is way more vertical comes on like a fuucken freit train. thanks again kyle and keep up the great work cheers steve

Thanks for the comments and feedback steve, I really appreciate it mate, and thankyou for sharing your experience with switching plenums, that is one first hand experience that backs up the flow figures. You don't have a back to back dyno graph you could post up at all?? Cheers........................Kyle.

Hi, Im considering building a N/a turbo setup, and I want to run a stage 3 Keas valvebody thats 4sp and semi automatic, They are only able to run up to 15psi boost in auto because of the effect on line pressure, and make the auto hold rpm too high if you go above this, could you tell me if engine compression makes any difference to PSI, if you run the same turbo on the same setting on a n/a type compression as opposed to a turbo type compression, would the smaller amount of cylinder/cumbustion chamber volume produce higher PSI. Im after 200-220kw without going over 15psi on straight lpg, would this be possible on N/a type compression with a half decent tune? I realy want to keep it Auto, But want 200-220rwkw more, would go full manual 4spd jatco if 200kw is unavailable on 15psi either 9:1 or 7:1 comp. Though also prefer to do it on Standard N/A comp because i'd like excelent low down driveability. Will be Using a Cometic Head gasket of either thickness to acheive desired compression. Thanks in advance, Your Advice is much sought and much appreciated. Steve.

Quote: Originally Posted by vl-blt1 Hi, Im considering building a N/a turbo setup, and I want to run a stage 3 Keas valvebody thats 4sp and semi automatic, They are only able to run up to 15psi boost in auto because of the effect on line pressure, and make the auto hold rpm too high if you go above this, could you tell me if engine compression makes any difference to PSI, if you run the same turbo on the same setting on a n/a type compression as opposed to a turbo type compression, would the smaller amount of cylinder/cumbustion chamber volume produce higher PSI. Im after 200-220kw without going over 15psi on straight lpg, would this be possible on N/a type compression with a half decent tune? I realy want to keep it Auto, But want 200-220rwkw more, would go full manual 4spd jatco if 200kw is unavailable on 15psi either 9:1 or 7:1 comp. Though also prefer to do it on Standard N/A comp because i'd like excelent low down driveability. Will be Using a Cometic Head gasket of either thickness to acheive desired compression. Thanks in advance, Your Advice is much sought and much appreciated. Steve. Ive got a straight gas (turbo motor but) vl making that much power, and with a keas 4 speed. Paul said around that power you will need the manual valve body, and its what ive got and hasnt let me down. My car with a t3/t4 runs 110mph (never been on a dyno) on just a smidge under 16psi.

vl-blt1, the problem of holding gears for too long in the non manual valve Jatcos can be helped by adding one way valves in the signal line...from time spent playing with mine ive found you need atleast 4 of them, more seems to work better.... My trans was built by MV in Adelaide, had heaps of issues with it early on holding 2nd gear for ever! Last time on dyno made 282rwkw@20psi through it and was banging into 3rd very nicely.

Quote: Originally Posted by 6BOOST Thanks for the comments and feedback steve, I really appreciate it mate, and thankyou for sharing your experience with switching plenums, that is one first hand experience that backs up the flow figures. You don't have a back to back dyno graph you could post up at all?? Cheers........................Kyle. yeah too easy kyle ill pick up my other one on friday when i go there and ill send em to you as cant post pics

Quote: Originally Posted by Wyndup vl-blt1, the problem of holding gears for too long in the non manual valve Jatcos can be helped by adding one way valves in the signal line...from time spent playing with mine ive found you need atleast 4 of them, more seems to work better.... My trans was built by MV in Adelaide, had heaps of issues with it early on holding 2nd gear for ever! Last time on dyno made 282rwkw@20psi through it and was banging into 3rd very nicely. Thanks Wyndup, where might i find the one way valves, and do they restrict the line pressure to acheive that, Harder to push through etc..., and do they Have a Rating? Thanks, Steve.