ok. well im going to try the soldering method today so stop the needle from dropping down. If it still doesnt fill past 3/4, is the fuel sender hard to replace??? does the tank need to be removed to do this??? cheers, james

Most likely. The fuel sender is fairly long, so it'd be easier if the tank was out. Otherwise you might have difficulty getting out past the panhard arm. Tanks are easy to tank out. Unplug the electrical connections, remove the rear right wheel and wheel well, unplug the vacuum lines from the filler neck and tank, then undo the straps (four bolts). Easy!

well after soldering the back of the fuel guage up, like shown in the pics, its all perfect now! when i fill it up, it goes to the top, and never drops down, so its all good... only problem is that the speedo is really sluggish now, like it wont drop down when i slow down, and needs to be tapped in order to make it drop..im pretty sure it reads about 10km/hr too fast anyway.. any quick solutions? cheers, james

You could have damaged the spring when getting out the needle? either that or it's not sitting right. Take it off, give it a gentle twist, then place it on zero and gently push down. If all else fails go grab yourself a broken dash and steal the speedo part out. I did the fuel gauge tonight, and I broke the rectangular part on the back of the tacho. Hopefully everything works sweet, I fired it up and the fuel went straight to half way. Makes me wonder how much fuel I had in there yesterday and this morning

lol my fuel 1 is not working at all when i turn the car on it dasnt even move at all but im pritty sure its just unplugd from the back i hope lol

Doubt it. It would be one of the two mentioned in this thread. I done the Fuel Gauge soldering thingy, to no avail. I pulled out the sender and found that the float on the end of it had come off! Put in a new sender and its all good now. Just make sure when you put a new sender in, that it's back in its original position. If not, then you will get funny readings at the gauge.

lol gave this a shot tonight and now the tacho (revs) dont work so looks lik the spring is farked so looks like ill be at the wreakers on the weenend =( lol

thanks 4 thi ive put my hand threw 2 dash plastics over a crappy fuel gauge :@

Hey guys I did the solder mod today and it works a treat now, I didnt do the wire mod so if you dont want to pull the front of the cluster apart and possibly break your needles or fark your oil press. gauge then maybe you should just try the solder first. it only takes 10mins to get the cluster out again if it is still playing up. also this mod is basically for when your fuel gauge 'drops out' and you have to tap it for it to read again.... if its not reading full or its doing other crazy ****e then its more than likely your sender. thats just my 2 cents worth!

i just did the same as wrath, seems to have fixed the prob, havent driven anywhere yet but each time i start the car my fuel gauge works now

do you mean just this step ? Well i tried, its better then nothing... i just hope for the best i will let you guys know how it went... BEFORE AFTER ok well i put it back together, i started the car and the truth is... the pin didnt move!!!!! i was shocked! then i gave it a good old tap and bang up to 3/4 of a tank! i turned the car off, cleaned up the tools, turned it back on and bang right back to 3/4! i took it for a 10 min drive (make sure my heat gauge was working and also that i connected the speedo) came back home, tunred off the car, put my dads car in the garage and then when i was putting my car in the garage turned it back on, bang to the 3/4 for my car to hit the same mark 4 times within 10 mins is just AMAZING!!!! CHEERS MATE Top Thread A++ 2 thumbs up Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Hey guys I bought a 2nd hand dash off ebay which was promised to have FULLY functional gauges. Yea right..... The only gauges that worked on it were the tacho and volts. Real handy. Anyway to cut to the chase I followed the guide to solder a new wire to the fuel gauge and found out that it still didnt work! Next thing i thought was, maybe its not getting power. So i chucked the old dash in and checked the volts and found that my assumption was correct, the new dash instead of getting 12v was getting 0.3 So I just soldered a new wire from the tacho +ve to the fuel gauge and now shes all good again Just thought id share that seeing that some people are still not getting a reading after fixing the sensor wire. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Just did my brothers berlina and it was an instant fix.Great thread.

i did this tonight and i must say it works much better.

often the voltage stabilizer stuffs out when that happens your fuel gauge moves around and your temp gauge moves around(with fluctuating voltage) thats the little chip looking thing circled in blue u can't get them from holden anymore but a gauge specialist will have them

The fix worked for me, but now it only goes to 3/4 and drops to 1/4 after about 70k's. New sender her I come.

That transisitor looking chip from memory powers the fuel and either (amps or temp), i spent many an hour looking for one. Mine had blown, cant buy them new, they are on the net somewhere, but getting them is another thing! They power down i think from 12V to 10V or similar, cant remember now, i finally got a second hand board and got one Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

The part that fixed mine was soldering that wire on the back.

I can't wait untill I go home to try this out, So hope it all works My fuel gauge's situation is much like Syk03L so yeah. Fingers crossed. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

didnt even know there was a fuel guage thread.problem with mine is that it says 3/4 when full and -1/4 past E when empty. guys got any ideas as to what is wrong?