U must be a mechanic..... coz ur such a fu.cking wan.ker. I said IF you are getting ur discs machined, its a good idea to get them done on the car, it eliminates possible run out probs, the harder your brakes are worked, the more evident the problem becomes. Zoso: fu.ck right off this forum. PLEASE !!

lol @ OVL087 Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Oh, no offence to other mechanics out there..... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by HSVSUX Oh, no offence to other mechanics out there..... I was actually taking offence on that one , as I am a mechanic - NOT> HSVSUX , can you please advise on what transmission oil to buy . Most of places I asked about synthetic they said they haven't got any and why would I put synthetic in . If there is something that is within factory spec out there and synthetic also , I would like to hear about it A bit off topic , but I think this got too hot a bit anyway Cheers Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I use Redline D4 ATF they have about 5 ATF's all synthetic depending on your requirements. Its only really nessesary if your trans temp gets around 260+ on a regular basis which wouldnt happen on the street easily 'Dominator' (autoflight engineering or whatever they are called) stocks all Redline products. my trans sits at 280- 290 at summer meetings, mineral would have boiled at those temps.

make sure you get some on payday so it doesnt seem so hard on the wallet. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by HSVSUX make sure you get some on payday so it doesnt seem so hard on the wallet. hahahaha just get next weeks pay in advance while ur at it too Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by coastvl Well I don't know about you guys , but I've had DBA gold disc's and Bendix Ultimates on my car for 3 YEARS and they are perfect.They probably would wear quick on a track but on the street they are fine. And there are no cracks between any of the holes either. So please make up your own minds and have a nice day Hehe ; You haven't come down a mountain breaking every corner for 1 hour yet , in full summer. The discs were red hot and when cooling down , cracked ... but I was racing an Integra type R Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

hrmm.. get a cash advance from cash coverters !! that should see u with enough money to get some good quality **** in there Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I think aerovl has some he wants to sell. (Redline ATF) PM his ass

I have found on an N/A car at least the brakes are crap and fade very easily. I have currently got a pair of 300 mm VT brakes & twin spot calipers up front on my VL and they make a huge difference particularly when braking at high speeds as the car hauls up far quicker without having to worry about fade. As for machining the brakes I have also found they can only be done once on the old VB-VP rotors then you have to look at replacing them,my brother had his set remachined on his VN and now after rebuilding the motor,fitting a manual and doing minor tweaks (i.e. opening the cat converter to 3 inches and fitting extractors (already had a 2.5 inch sports exhaust & cold air intake fitted) the car has more power and the brakes can't stop the car when up to speed,there is evident of the discs overheating as there is a big blue mark going right through the middle meaning it must be getting red hot,when I was in it you could feel the pulsation right through the car. He is now also fitting the VT front conversion,on my car all I have to do is fit the rear disc conversion and fit a heavy duty booster and I am all set,the thing which got me with the brakes from the VB - VS is they were only made to just match the performance of the vehicle whereas the older Fords up to the XF model went crazy with their 4 wheel disc brake setup as when I was getting an LSD setup put of a 79 model Fairlaine diff the brakes could have done the 351 powered car but were stopping a carby 4.1 powered car with a tall diff ratio. I suppose the HQ- HZ Holdens stopped better because their discs were used on the V8's but were also used on a car which only put out around 70 - 80 FWKW,but they had a bigger surface area to clamp against on the rotor than what it did in the early Commodores. It just really gets me why on the VK onwards they fitted a braking system which did the old carby powered cars to a more powerful fuel injected car.

what are the bendix advanced pads like?

VL-Aero - I just put some Bendix Advanced on the fronts of my car - shut the squeeling up completely, and the same day i put them on, had a good punt around Queensland Raceway, being quite heavy on the brakes a few times - smelled a little bit.. but still braked suprisingly well after a few hard brakes.

A relatively cheap caliper/rotor upgrade, would be to fit Nissan 4 pot calipers... off a 300zx or GTS skyline.... these can be had for a couple of hundred dollars if you look hard enough... only tricky bit is modifying or making new mounting brackets... If you are hard on the brakes.. DBA 4000's are a good slotted rotor.. front and rear... With some nice Ferodo DS2000 pads. Great setup for the street. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

The Nissan 4 Pots are awesome, worth every cent. But they are not cheap. You need the custom billet hubs, about $400, you need the hat rotors possibly up to $350 if you want drilled/slotted, you need the adapters, $200, you need the calipers $350, pads $100. All prices are just rough estimates, but you get the drift. Over $1000, but still worth every cent, IMHO There are other ways of doing it like fitting the hub type 330mm rotor off early hsv etc, but they are still just as expensive at the end of the day. Mick

i can vouch for the nissan calliper upgrade, i just did the conversion on my car, but yeah not cheap, probably cost me around $1800. but for that i got 4 drilled and slotted rotors (330mm fronts), callipers from a skyline (4 spot front and 2 spot rear) , front braided brake lines, new booster, new master cyl, mounting brackets. A big part of the expense was buying the front rotors ($680) - and that was a good price!. The conversion made a huge difference, well worth the $$$ spent.

Wilwood superlite calipers are 300 each dynalites are 220 each, pad choice is by far the best out of any caliper under 1500. you can get different size pistons etc. the std VLT / VLv8 master and booster will be fine for every job, unless you get very big calipers (fluid volume wise) like 6 pots etc, then the pedal will be very deep / soft. my car has a very nice pedal and uses std VLT M/C and booster.

i just had my brakes upgraded from n/a spec to 290mm slotted dba and vlt callipers (re kitted) with advanced pads. i still have standard m/c and booster... any benifits to be had from these? (note: main reason is for turbo conversion) also, when i turn while stationary / going very slow, there is like a shudder... anyone know whats going on? had brakes done this morning and as soon as i picked it up i noticed this

errr... wheel bearings ? nut and split pin are ok ? take it back.. get it cheked.

i think it has something to do with the power steering cause the fluid is way up in the resovoir