Back to shop ↗
THE HOLDEN COMMODORE FORUM

HOLDCOM Community

Built around the cars. Kept alive by the people.

+ Start a discussion
Holden Commodores gathered at Holdcom
Forum Home›VL Commodore
VL Commodore

N/A to VLT - Piece by Piece list

Started by my88vl · 13 Feb 2003 · 249 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo (partial recovery). Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

.lozArchived member
if your under 25; adding a turbo will void your insurance, even if the model does come factory with a turbo. if you want a turbo'd car and get it insured; u will need to get a factory turbo vl, you cant do the mods yourself (stupid i know). this is with people like suncorp and RACQ/NRMA/RAC. ive yet to talk to people like shannons and just cars, im looking at doing this conversion too
0 likes
vlt-dreamerArchived member
mate, If you have a engineers certificate, that will help.... Pd RACV etc wont even insure your vlt if it has a intercooler??? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
0 likes
strArchived member
Hey fellas, I got a 1988 VL Commodore Berlina N/A RB30E and I'm considering turboing it up but I dont really know what components I need in order to do this.. I found a turbo kit being sold and it consists of these parts: 1) One New high flowed turbo with oil and water lines (turbo was only used for two dino runs) 2) One dump Pipe including the pipe to the cat after the dump pipe 3) One ECU 3TA turbo computer including wiring in running order 4) A set of 6 VL turbo injectors all in working order 5) The plastic 90 degree plastic angle that goes to the air box Is this all I would need in order to equip my N/A RB30E with turbo? Is there anything else that isnt listed here that I would need Also! Do you think those components listed above are worth a total of $1300 ? Thanks for your time fellas Regards, Rob
0 likes
phantom_tArchived member
hey guys who have converted, did you swap the cams over. i want to know form people who have converted keeping the na cam, if you get more torque down low/mid than if you use the vlt cam. Is the vlt cam better?
0 likes
VHELLTArchived member
yer get your cam grinded to a stage 1 turbo cam it will piss any bigger and u need a chip
0 likes
MRVL2UArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by str 1) One New high flowed turbo with oil and water lines (turbo was only used for two dino runs) 2) One dump Pipe including the pipe to the cat after the dump pipe 3) One ECU 3TA turbo computer including wiring in running order 4) A set of 6 VL turbo injectors all in working order 5) The plastic 90 degree plastic angle that goes to the air box i pretty much just got the same deal yesterday, but i paid $1200 with an intercooler 600 x 300 and the piping for it, a boost gauge and a turbo timer.... only thing im missing is wiring loom (if i need it) and a few bolts i think. i hope it all goes well, dont know when im doing the conversion yet. need some help with it from people that hav done it.
0 likes
2HOT4UArchived member
Hey guys, If you turbo your RB30 which is Na can you still get insurance? How much would it be for a P-Plater? Thanks!
0 likes
Jazza88Archived member
does anyone know any other ways to get water and oil to the turbo without drilling?
0 likes
toine_8Archived member
hey guys,, i am thinking of dropping a rb26dett or a rb25det into my VL, which is NA btw. What you guys think,, also includes whole drivetrain and probably brakes too. The price is really good,, thus why so tempting Any ideas, comments?
0 likes
its.not.aliArchived member
guys, is it a neccessaty to have a fuel reg?? can i just put the turbo injectors onto the N/A fuel rail n plenum n be fine?
0 likes
BaxArchived member
It'll be fine.
0 likes
its.not.aliArchived member
dont need a turbo fuel rail?? dont need a turbo fuel reg??
0 likes
BrettArchived member
no and no
0 likes
DUMPD6Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Brett The costs can very it depends on from who and where you get your parts from and how complete you actually want to make the conversion. what will i need. to just do a conversion cheap arse for now untill i can get enough funds to build a turbz motor? i dont wanna go changing every thing on this engine just to have to pull it off in a few months and put it on the other motor... for my N/A motor i want to only change the things i have to to get it to run with a turbo... i dont care if it only lasts a month
0 likes
BaxArchived member
Check the start of this thread. Things you will definately need, Crossover, everything from inlet minus afm and Airbox. Exhaust Manifold, Turbo, Dump, Front Pipe. Oil and Water Lines Injectors ECU I think thats all you'd need.
0 likes
PSIVL-6Archived member
I do the conversions all the time at work and the cheapest way is this.. standard t3 and exhaust mani with all water/oil feed/waste pipes with bolts and t piece for under inlet side. stock turbo x over pipe turbo injectors and exhaust from turbo to cat and intake pipes from afm to turbo,. . and thats it. you will be able to run stock boost no problem, if it pings just back off the timing. turbo ecu isnt a neccessity. an example is. 1 n/a vl calais, with all of the above mods plus front mount and trans cooler and 2 1/2. running ten pounds but on premium only. been going six months strong. pm if any questions. also conversion for sale fitted pm
0 likes
SMOKEDArchived member
How many PSI do you think you can run on a Stock NA engine no mods?
0 likes
SMOKEDArchived member
Never mind previous question: How much for your changeover kit?
0 likes
NinetySixArchived member
wouldnt it be a realllllllll pig running bigger injectors with the n/a computer still?
0 likes
watchdogArchived member
I have done the conversion. you can get away with bolting on the turbo and it will run. This is a cheap and nasty way with just these parts. turbo and dump pipe exhaust manifold oil and water lines turbo intake pipes. I did this while doin my conversion to see what would happen. The whole car a N/A from bonnet too boot, fuel system, wiring, computer, everything. I ran stock boost on premium fuel and it ran fine no pinging / detonation. You need to retard the timing a little bit. As a comparison I put the partly turbo converted Vl up against my other N/A vl which had a 2.5 inch exhaust,hiflow cat, extractors and pod running on premium fuel to see how they would go. The partly converted vl blew the other vl away everytime. Destroyed it. The converted vl ran very well just on stock boost and premium fuel, mind you i wasn't flogging the hell out of it. I then completed the conversion with all turbo parts, injectors, computer etc ect. I used the standard N/A intake manifold and wiring, standard N/A fuel system was left in place. I have since added a 600*300 hybrid copy cooler with heat wrapped 2.5 inch piping, 3 inch mandrel exhaust,hiflow cat, pod, surge tank, 044 bosch fuel pump and 10mm fuel lines, malpassi rising rate reg and wound up the boost. It puts out 251.9 rwhp or 187.5 rwkw on 12.5 psi on the dyno. got sheets to prove it. never had a problem with it except for cas. The motor is still the N/a engine never been touch apart from the bolton turbo gear. A few points to note are. you can use the N/A computer in the conversion i tried and it worked N/A computer will run Vlt injectors i tried and it worked.I run vlt comp now you can use stock N/A fuel system ( everything N/A ) i tried and it worked you can use stock N/A exhaust system i tried and it worked you can use N/A tranny i tried and it worked ( i did change to vlt auto later ) You can use N/A diff iam still using it, holds up fine. you can use N/A wiring system. you need to change front brakes to turbo or better. I put VX twin spots and rotors on you can use N/A afm i tried and it works you can use N/A air box, fuel rail, fuel reg, intake manifold. i tried and it works. you can use N/A oil pump mine is working fine for over 12 months. These are things i have found out while doing my conversion. i have tried them and this is what works. It is possible to do it cheaply and easily. BUT you will only be able to get so much out of this. If you push it to hard it WILL die / self-implode. I did it right and it is all working fine, i dont run too high boost or flog the life out of it. I get it tuned properly and service it regularly and use good parts. regards WATCHDOG.
0 likes
Sign in or create an account to reply. New members are welcome—no purchase or old CT account needed.

Who’s online

0 members and 0 guests active in the last 15 minutes

No signed-in members active right now. Guests are welcome to browse.

Visitors Today12

33,602 threads, 484,230 posts and 17,208 images saved from CT

98.1% of indexed threads saved