Dan they run different spring rates that compensate.I have 28/20 with the Bilstiens springs(don,t forget we have wagons)All this was Brock standard and it runs and handles fine(but not as good as your wagon)as ours is not as low. Cheers Marty

Standard Station Wagon rear swaybar is a pissy little 14mm....(I measured my Wagon) I assume your wagon would have one larger than that though?

My VK wag doesn't have a rear sway bar at all. Now I've got the VL turbo diff in ill get some mounts made in the under body to mount one.

How do you know if the CAS is playing up?

It's kind of a guess sometimes, sometimes they just die, other times its intermittent when thy play up, what's yours doing Matt? Mainly when's its warmed up it dies? Doesn't give probs when cold? I have a spare one here if you need it, it's a good tested one. Let me know, 0274 203369

Quote: Originally Posted by VL-Dan [View Post] Standard Station Wagon rear swaybar is a pissy little 14mm....(I measured my Wagon) I assume your wagon would have one larger than that though? Yes I thought it was 20,But it is 18mm(have just checked)And the front is 28mm.But from memory your handled better as it is quite a bit lower than ours.I keopt ours at the height it is cecouse of the front spoiler(that is 140mm above the ground)And that way do not have to worry too much about driveways or speed humps. Cheers Marty

The car will like bunny hop while driving, jolting the whole car. And sometimes wont even idle and its missing and farting but ok when warm. Its usually when cold it will do this. But even when warm, it will surge and jolt the whole car. i have tried two different ECU. I have recently spent over 300 on new leads and plugs, did the same with previous ones. Have new fuel fitler put on too.

Bugger that's no good! Must have had the ol girl for while now? Either afm or cas I'd be doing, I've got both here your welcome to try them out and see where your at from there.

Hey guys i have just done a manual conversion on my vl.... As far as i know ive pluged everything back in, but now when i turn the key over there is nothing, dash lights come up but the engine dont wind over......... I can start it by jumping the starter motor and runs sweet, there is power in the ignition but it just ont wind over.... Im stuck any help would be great....

Quote: Originally Posted by Vlrb30e+t [View Post] Hey guys i have just done a manual conversion on my vl.... As far as i know ive pluged everything back in, but now when i turn the key over there is nothing, dash lights come up but the engine dont wind over......... I can start it by jumping the starter motor and runs sweet, there is power in the ignition but it just ont wind over.... Im stuck any help would be great.... sounds like you need to bypass the nutral safety switch you need to make a jump wire on one of the plugs on the right hand side firewall

I have changed the AFM to, sometimes its sweet for a while and then has its hissy fit heaps. I'll give ya a text to try CAS. Yea I have owned VL for over 5 years now.

Quote: Originally Posted by Vlrb30e+t [View Post] Hey guys i have just done a manual conversion on my vl.... As far as i know ive pluged everything back in, but now when i turn the key over there is nothing, dash lights come up but the engine dont wind over......... I can start it by jumping the starter motor and runs sweet, there is power in the ignition but it just ont wind over.... Im stuck any help would be great.... Its a common problem & easy fix man it is a purple wire you need to loop up by the water squirter bottle, you would have unplugged the wire as its part of the auto box loom. give me a call if your stuck on 027 2500 452 & i can talk you through it Cheers Adam.

Sweet bro sorted the problem.... Now using a button to start the old girl hahaha anti theft device, would help cause it doesnt lock and unlock hahahaha safe... Cheers bro

hey guys im having problems with my car detonating i had it tuned a while ago and it was all good but i went overseas for a few months and when i got back i noticed it detonate a few times and now it detonates everytime i plant my foot. its running a nistune with gtr injectors and o44 fuel pump plus a z32 AFM running 13psi it has a new FORD coil aswell. will putting colder range of spark plugs in it help? also it back fires quite badly when ill be doing 80kmh in 3rd and off the accelerator when going down a hill for example. any help would be great? cheers matt

If it were me I'd go back to the guy who tuned it last time either have a chat to them about it or book it back in for a tune

yeah ive done that a fair few times now im thinking of taking it to a different tuner because ive taken it back to the same tuner for cold start tunes quite alot and he is about a 45 minute drive from me and im starting to get sick of driving it out there to be tuned then come home and start it to find out its not right. now it starts and runs fine but detonates on hard acceleration. ive given the tuner a fair chance at tuning it but im not getting the results i want.

Quote: Originally Posted by commynutt [View Post] Ok so the external fuel pump in my Calais buggered out so I replaced it with a 044 i had lying around still brand new and installed a sard adj reg. fuel pump sounded like it was working its ass off so I removed that stock 'dampener' that sits right after the old fuel pump and seemed to run alot better but is now occasionally blowing fuel pump fuses and is running very Rich. As far as blowing fuses goes would a high flow fuel filter sort this problem by getting rid of that backed up fuel pressure and sending it down the return faster?? And why would she be running rich? Reg is set at the standard 3bar. Help please gas bills killing me! and i hope you havnt got a chip in the ecu also? like me haha. but i just had my car dynod and air / fuel ratio was way out 9 at 4500-5500rpm i am now experimenting with a reflashable chip similar to rb20det ecu i think. car put out 110rwkw whoa there and 350nm. fuel bill is better and i am saving for aftermarket ecu but its a process ( that needs $$$$ ) . eventuallly the turbo will go on with this chipped na ecu so i can cert the car-along with brake upgrade. i also upgraded fuel pump and had a copy fpr and car went crap. i put standard reg back on and runs better.

yeah i just ordered a 070, just though it would have made things easier if i sussed fuel side of things now before the et's dropped in ---------- Post added 22-11-13 at 20:09 ---------- Quote: Originally Posted by tubular2 [View Post] and i hope you havnt got a chip in the ecu also? like me haha. but i just had my car dynod and air / fuel ratio was way out 9 at 4500-5500rpm i am now experimenting with a reflashable chip similar to rb20det ecu i think. car put out 110rwkw whoa there and 350nm. fuel bill is better and i am saving for aftermarket ecu but its a process ( that needs $$$$ ) . eventuallly the turbo will go on with this chipped na ecu so i can cert the car-along with brake upgrade. i also upgraded fuel pump and had a copy fpr and car went crap. i put standard reg back on and runs better. Na no chipped ecu. I have have a link g4storm that will be going in when I can round up some $$$ for installation and dyno time on the n/a that's still in there. Yeah might see how the 070 goes with the sard and if no good ill put the standard reg back in. Just trying to get as much done to the vehicle as possible before the forged et goes in. Not wanting the car off the road for that long

Hi Guys Havent been on here in ages Still have my VL. Im looking at a 95 Vs senator 5litre V8 I got the compression test done today and it says 1.96/2.100/3.99/4.102/5.98.6.96.7.96/8.100 Im worried about the Variation in the Cyclinders? Also it needs the real main seal replaced. Does the Motor need to come out? Thanks Heaps for any advice

They are all within 10% so I would not worry.Yes I would remove the motor for the rear main,Some outfits in CH CH have done a main with the motor in,Try reslone rear main seal for the stop leak. Cheers Marty