Heaps of great information coming from this thread....keep it coming!

My mates nearly finished this same sort of project, except the paint and interior/wheels have made is cost only around 15g including purchase price of car. The engine/diff/trans are under 10G easy . I actually think it is way to easy to do it with a cheap twin cam head, especiually as secondhand cams come up all the time on SAU . I woudn't be half suprised if my mates car went 10.5 or under on pump fuel with a low km SOHC NA motor. I have been trying to get him to put the build up here. But the trans is always the killer, good luck will be good to watch. cheers darren

Should be easy what ever your doing, I shopped around and all my bolton parts cost me $2370 + 950fuelsys - $1550 my old setup that i sold. its just trans that costs$$, new built trimatic is $3400 its stronger and has better 1st gear than jatco, but if your thinking transfering it to your drag car get a 2 speed.

Good to see your determined, have you set a date for when you�re hoping to finish this??

Thanks for the support guys - good to see the genuine racers come out of the wood work and reply to this thread Darren: its not an easy challenge thats for sure - labour and workmanship will be top notch however your right.... trans cost is really fscking me up! Joe: You had a perfect street setup for the money. In fact your car inspired me to do this. When is saw your results and the potential given the modifications, i thought **** this car is just too good for what it is! Absolute street bruiser and engine was pretty reliable given what it was! 2spd is the go guys - I'm shopping around for gears to suit it now - should i go for the 3.9s or 4.11s to get it out of the hole quicker? Keeping in mind that ill probably have a max rpm of 6500-7000 rpm depending on peak power and to save the rods from pulling apart at high piston speeds. To be quote on honest the only major thing i have left to buy is the trans so I'm putting money aside for it as we speak and ill jump on something thats value for money straight away. I'm selling all my drift cars and setups except for my R32 Sedan to build this VL and then transfer the drive line into my weekender after the body is re-sprayed. If i can get the trans within a month, the car will be ready within 3 months or late August / early September. More pics and info to come guys! Its hard doing night shifts at the workshop to get this all going as its ***in cold 6 degrees. Slip a spanner and you'll definitely know about it LOL! Still undecided whether im going for twincam rb25 or rb26. RB25 sidefeed injectors will eat into the budget as they cost the earth, even used in Japan. I can get RB26/VL top feed injectors at a great price through a friend and i can spin up a fuel rail my self with CAD and a Drill Press... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

just for ****s and gigles i plugges my 35r on to bog stock rb30 goes mint im runnin a 33 5spd with custom clutch and a fuel reg just plumbed a cooler up yesterday ill take more pics soon Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by darkstar Still undecided whether im going for twincam rb25 or rb26. RB25 sidefeed injectors will eat into the budget as they cost the earth, even used in Japan. I can get RB26/VL top feed injectors at a great price through a friend and i can spin up a fuel rail my self with CAD and a Drill Press... Like I said before mate, its the exact opposite, I can hiflow the standard 25 sidefeeds for you to flow 780cc, no drilling, no dodgy spray patterns, hey, I'll even do it for free for you in the interest of the project and the community, new O rings and a clean is up to you to get done though. Free 780cc side feeds seems a lot cheaper than cheap topfeeds 6BOOST Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Kyle..... you got me on that setup now hehe Ive got RB25 N/A injectors - do you need Turbo injectors or can N/As be highflowed just as well? Guys, when Kyle comes through - Mucho Kudos ! Ill PM you after i get the shell dropped off at the workshop this morning Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

nice work guys. interesting concept. all the best darky

Ok i got the other shell for cheap with a drive line already - just stripped interior. Ill be selling what i dont want to keep or need. It's had a few hits and repairs.... body wasnt in the best of shape. Had a whole lot of rust in the rear drivers quarter panel wheel arch..... the more i picked at it the more rust came out till i decided to cut it all out and go from there.... Now here is where it gets interesting - ive always wanted to put VL Front guard flares on to the rear of a VL. Wide look + you can fit more tyre, upto 2" more wide under the guard from factory. So the new plan is, if i decide to use this shell, is: * Fit the front guard flares on the rear * Smooth it all out with bog to make it look good * Weld the rear doors up for extra chasis rigidity - car is not going to be road registered what so ever. If i want to run it on the street i can transfer it to another car within a weekend * Put the whole car on a diet...if i dont need it it aint going to be there Interior is already gone so might as well throw the rest out? The only looms will be custom looms for the brake lights and head lights via relays * If i have time - experiment with a few concepts that ive always wanted to do do the engine bay - namely cut that ugly ridge off the firewall, smooth it all out and sheet metal the chassis rails so they look the part. * The above mods will not be calculated as part of the total as they are mostly free - just time intensive and pretty much just for fun If it doesnt work out... i can always sell the driveline that came with the car to re-coup and use the red berlina or calais shell. Here are some pics! Car being delivered Rear Shot Bog and Rust = bad Close up of rust hole - goes all the way through First i cut a little... then a lot .... then fcuk it ill cut it all off Cut drivers front guard i had spare from a damaged VL Test Fitment Not too bad eh? Stock With Flare Side by Side - Factory (inner) VS Modifed (outer) So the aim is to run the wider tyres or at least not have any rubbing under tyre deformation. I probably shouldnt have bothered but i was having a good time and i didnt mind trying it out..... if it doesnt work out i can always cut an weld in antoher factory guard peice from another shell or scrap the shell all together. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

twin cam/ to4/66 or gt3540 2 speed, with everything stripped out of it..... ..sounds like a 9 sec project if it works out well , gearing wise you have to work out what tyre size you want and the powerband/converter slip, probally one of the last things you will do, at a guess i would say 3.45's or 3.7's with a 26x8.5 or 9 turning it to 6500-7000rpm, depending what mph it looks like it's capable of. cheers darren Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

nice to see delivery went well, i like the ideas you got going, cant wait till my shell runs a 10 or 9!

My shell now mate Shes been pretty abortioned from previous owners and the amatures stripping it..... i was about to throw it in the bin actually but i may save it if the panels line up nice enough. Plenty of BOG and Rust on the rear - more than i saw at first. Shame about the rear quarter , but wide flares and welded doors it is Transmission is really killing me.... 2spd glides are ***in very expensive to get built right. I will only be able to go the 2spd if i can find a suitable sponsor for the car or a loan trans..... I spoke to Paul Keas and we had a good chat about options for this build..... many interesting ways to go about it. For the record a full custom 1000HP 2spd glide for an RB with Cro-Mo billet parts and gears, looking at 8.5k-9k with converter - great for Low 8s and maybe even a high 7 if you could get all that power and torque down to the ground. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

try calling John/Promatic trans. for a price check thats where I got my 3 speed done 9335 1037. he rebuilt RRD 2 speed glide for a race car after their old 1 blew, and it seems to be good

NA RB25 injectors go 580cc, and turbo injectors go 780cc, I'd use the turbo ones in your project if you have some. If you don't, send me some NA ones and I'll swap you, I've got heaps of both. As for the glide, the billet input shaft box is crazy, but a 850hp glide with tce converter, bellhousing, shifter bracket and keas crossmember adapter is under $5500 And as Lowey and Jake(tubbed1) have proven, is good for high 8's low 9's at over 150mph reliably. Cheers......................6BOOST Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Oh man, I was hoping it was gonna stay a streetish kinda car Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Thank for the heads up 6 boost PM Sent Kyle: The billet parts are shockingly expensive but worth it if you want reliability. I spoke to Paul and im looking at the 600HP option for now with the provision to upgrade it to the 1000HP billet box in the next 2-3 years after im making that kind of power with a proper built motor. Besides, im sure i could sell the 600HP box thats done a few drag passes for 75% of what i bought it for. I've been quoted 1600-1800 for a custom 8" conveter - any other cheaper options available for around $1k or under with a 3500-4000 stall? allmtr - since the shell needs a lot of work to put it on the street, i may transfer it into the red car shell if the restoration work to get it decent takes too long or is too expensive. It just needs the rust issue sorted out and panels aligned. While its only a drag car, i want it to look good and not like arse lol! Driveline will be transfered into a full weight calais to see how she goes with the extra 200 odd kg..... im tipping it will make 0.1 ro 0.2 sec difference only. If the shell was good, she would have been a streeter but im still at ends as both cars need some restoration work however with the blue one i can fcuk around with it, try new ideas etc. GOOD NEWS: T51 Turbo has arrived but im not home to see it yet.... cant wait to see it and strip it down to make sure its good. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

good luck darkstar, an awsome vison! 10s-for-10K

I think from memory every 100lb is worth 1 tenth, so 200kg-440lb would be .44-.5 of a second, it will definately be far more than .1-.2 of a second. And refer to my pm about box advise, I'd go 3 speed jatco for this build and get the glide later, it will be faster in your 10 sec build and save you some money. The converter will also be cheaper, as the 8" to suit the glide is almost one of the dearest, and don't skimp here, as the converter really will make or break your package and timeslip, and can make all of the difference 6BOOST Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

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