Quote: Originally Posted by 5spdvl Thats the plan. Figured I'd skip the MX7 to save problems (like this ) later on. Better start researching what goes with what.... i got a spear mf5, that the cluter bearings have gone in if u want it(use the out put shaft of it) im in frankston, and dont want anyhting for it Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Done mate, sent you a PM. And here is the main shaft from the gearbox I picked up from MARMO today. Lots of fun pulling it apart.....thanks Aj for the help! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Here is a more detailed look at the damage now that I've pulled it apart. Not for the faint hearted... It turns out that there is a difference between the gearbox I picked up to salvage the mainshaft from, and the box I have been using/broke. Doing some reading in Gregorys, and it turns out I've been using a New Zealand 2.0L five speed gearbox. Basically, these boxs lack a fifth/reverse detent bracket (bolted to the carrier plate), whereas the 3.0L Australian MF5 has it. I've got no idea how I came to have one, but thats what I've got! It came in a conversion kit off eBay from a dude wrecking an Executive in Greensborough...weird. Lets hope that the mainshafts aren't different... No wonder the damn thing broke! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

A few things different from the original tech artical.. The metal gasket needs to go on before the flywheel and cluch (wont fit after). And the bracket on the bottom of the motor to the bell housing (drivers side) is different on the manual to auto. The difference is with the auto, the bolt goes from the front to back (thread tapped into bell housing), manual, the bolt goes from the back to front (thread tapped into bracket). Very strange why they did that only on one side??? Make sure you have the bolts that came with the manual... 4 of the bellhousing bolts (around the top) are 20mm longer. I just did the conversion the other day. The biggest problem I had was some wally in the factory cross threaded one of the flex plate bolts and forced it almost all the way up. (It still had a couple of mm to go)! trying to get it out, I eventually snapped the head off. Had to do a hallycoil to fix the thread. Does anyone know of an easy way to get those damn tail shaft bolts off the diff? You cant get any tool other than open ended spanners on.. (couldn't even use rattle gun). btw: The gregorys manual shows you how to dismantle and swap the brake and clutch pedals without having to remove the pedal box, (or steering column). A little bit fiddley but probably easier than changing the whole assembly.

Yeah, the tailshaft bolts are a prick to undo (without rounding them). I've found the best way to do it is jack the car up from the back, and support it with two jackstands under the actual diff (diff housing, as close the wheels as possible). That way the diff doesn't drop down, and keeps the uni joint at the pinion flange nice and straight (maximum access to the bolts/nuts).

Can anyone help us out with some info from goin manual to auto ?? I bought a N/A Calais with a rb20 5spd box right.. now i would like to do a motor and box transplant with my turbo motor and turbo auto .. Now would it be easier to salvage the old turbo auto wiring loom or can i just use the existing wiring looms in the current calais and modify them to suit the auto gearbox ??????

Salvage the old wiring loom. All the plugs are right there waiting for the auto. Manual will just be a stuff around.

cheers buddy.. the auto wiring loom goes thru the dash aswell !! thinkin maybe i should just get an auto leccy to custom wire it up any ideas on a price to get that done

can someone advise what mount or mounting plate is needed for the turbo manual box???. I have got a turbo gearbox and cross-member from a non-turbo 5 speed. There msut be some sort of rubber mount ---is this the same as non turbo 5 speed??). Also, is ther a some sort of plate that joins it to the gearbox and is it the same as non turbo box??? any help appreciated. thanks

"I have got a turbo gearbox and cross-member from a non-turbo 5 speed." Are you sure its a turbo box? Do you mean crossmember, instead of "mounting plate"? There is a rubber mount that bolts onto the crossmember, they're the same between auto and manual, although the crossmembers are different. You can use the same crossmember between MF5 and MX7 anyway. And the second plate you mention, are you referring to the sandwich plate? Goes between the gearbox and motor? They're different between MF5 and MX7, due to the starter motor on the MX7 box being different. What flywheel are you using? 9.5" or 10"? What starter are you using?

yes, I know exactly what I've got. a RB25DET turbo engine, box, starter, clutch, flywheel etc. thanks, you have partially answered my questions by telling me the rubber mount that bolts to the gearbox, is the same on turbo & non-turbo manual boxes, and so are the cross-members (the bar that goes across the tunnel and bolts to the floor). what I still dont know is if the plate that fits between the cross member and the gearbox rubber mount, is the same on turbo as non-turbo. even my local Holden dealer cant tell me this. none of this obviously has anything to do with the sandwitch plate at the back of the engine block, but thanks for asking

started my conversion this weekend, from what i've read i need a manual sprigot/bush, do most auto shops sell them? and will they understand what i'm asking for?

Quote: Originally Posted by terryo yes, I know exactly what I've got. a RB25DET turbo engine, box, starter, clutch, flywheel etc. thanks, you have partially answered my questions by telling me the rubber mount that bolts to the gearbox, is the same on turbo & non-turbo manual boxes, and so are the cross-members (the bar that goes across the tunnel and bolts to the floor). what I still dont know is if the plate that fits between the cross member and the gearbox rubber mount, is the same on turbo as non-turbo. even my local Holden dealer cant tell me this. none of this obviously has anything to do with the sandwitch plate at the back of the engine block, but thanks for asking Sorry mate, just trying to get on the same wavelength! Are you referring to the little steel bracket, between the crossmember and gearbox, that holds the rubber mount? They're definately all the same. Quote: Originally Posted by Stoner_vl started my conversion this weekend, from what i've read i need a manual sprigot/bush, do most auto shops sell them? and will they understand what i'm asking for? Call Bursons, ask for a "VL Commodore manual spigot (bearing)". If they need more information, tell them its the bearing that fits into the back of the crank that steadies the input shaft. They're worth around $5.25.

they will know what your on about lol unless u get a trainee or something.

ok no worries thanks guys

Quote: Originally Posted by 5spdvl Not according to anything I've ever seen. But, of course, Gregorys and Max Ellerys wiring diagrams are made to suit auto and manual, so they make little additions/subtractions here and there to suit. The manual cruise circuit *appears* to either have replaced the brake switch with the clutch switch, or added the clutch switch in. The manuals make no mention of there being a difference with the module itself. No one thinks the 3EM ECU would change things around do they? Oh, by the way - I can unplug the TPS, accelerator pedal position sensor, and AT2 computer without it making a difference to the car whatsoever. F*CKING FINALLY!! Problem solved! After many nights looking over the wiring diagrams, and even a trip to an incompetant auto electrician, I've fixed my cruise control! Something I hadn't noticed until Sunday night was that the cruise control actually has an ECU. Its a small black box, probably around the size of two cigarette cases together, and its clipped standing up sideways to the right hand underside of the lower dash panel. Has a plug of seven wires going into it. Think it has a big "AC" on the side, from memory. I realised this when comparing the colours of the wiring between the switch and module, and seeing they weren't listed in the manual at all. Anyway, one of the wires between my switch and module were cut - I would have assumed an auto elec would have picked up on that. And I'd removed that ECU ages ago, simply because I didn't know wtf it was for. I swapped the cruise control module for another, reinstalled the CC ECU, went for a quick spin - tah dah! Long story short - I must have not plugged the ECU back in when I converted to manual. It should have worked from the word go. One thing to note for those converting with CC setups - stepping on the clutch during cruise makes the car rev off it tits. I'll be looking into splicing in a cruise cancellation switch above the clutch pedal, or simply putting the vacuum release there. Thanks for all the input guys. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

just wondering will a vl go through more fuel when its manual?? i get about 550-600kms to a tank now.

nah it's more economical if anything ...depending on how you drive!

Quote: Originally Posted by OldGold nah it's more economical if anything ...depending on how you drive! True. Auto uses more fuel.

Hay man awesome thread!!! I'd just like to no xcatly wat parts im gona need to do this? ive found a conversion kit but i just want to make sure everything is in there Cheers Mark NZ-RB30ED