Quote:
Originally Posted by poida24
being that you got 76kw at the wheels and standard is
about 86kw i would say no that is not right..
Yeah , I got exactly the same mods and I made 123 rwhp with a ****ty converter. So I'd say you got a problem some where.
Spoke to the guy at JPC yesterday and he said that they are running a XF throttle body on their 8sec drag car, he suggested that a bored out standard one would be the go. Because if you go to big, you will get a huge flat spot.
I think we need a tech article about the XF TB Mod and porting plenums... It would be a mod many people here i recon will do - NAs and turbos.
Finally - wheres the love people - why get so angry about this and attack the man?
"if you dont like it - go to Russia" - Homer Simpson
Just go test it out on the 1/4 mile and then you will all know if its 180rwhp or not..
Cheers,
Daz
Quote:
Originally Posted by rover
mate i think that dyno reading is way high.....
i had my tuned at chiptorque nerang and got 106rwkw's, the mods are, cam, twin throttle, headwork, extractors 2 1/2 zorst, hi-flow cat, cai, and running on pulp
Thats why.
That right there, twin throttle body itself would probably make up for enough air intake compared to the xf. Theres been people that have pumped heaps into their n/a vl's and only received 'alright' figures.
When I was thinking about mods for the n/a ages ago I was looking at cam/ chip etc and I was only looking at 16kw at the engine increase.. So I would of been around 100rwkw. I got 87rwkw with 2.5" exhaust, extractors and nothing more. No timing, no cold air.
Back in the day when people would log on here and ask, should I turbo or work the n/a.. It was an obvious, turbo. Maybe if we knew this it would have been, don't turbo, buy an xf throttle body
However, you would get an improvement, I just don't think it would be 50-60hp
On another note, 19 degrees igntion timing, a ****load more air coming in, and stock fuel, were you running extremely lean?
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by B15HOP
monaro327: Exactly!
They only trouble with doing that is the cost. But you are right.
Its good to do these little mods if you don't have the money. Just about any mods after the usual mods such as the 2 1/2" system with extractors, CAI, advanced timing, sports filter, XF TB (and maybe bigger fuel pump?) all start costing you big bucks. Even a chiped computer with a cam will cost you a fair bit.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bextor84
Thats why.
That right there, twin throttle body itself would probably make up for enough air intake compared to the xf. Theres been people that have pumped heaps into their n/a vl's and only received 'alright' figures.
When I was thinking about mods for the n/a ages ago I was looking at cam/ chip etc and I was only looking at 16kw at the engine increase.. So I would of been around 100rwkw. I got 87rwkw with 2.5" exhaust, extractors and nothing more. No timing, no cold air.
Back in the day when people would log on here and ask, should I turbo or work the n/a.. It was an obvious, turbo. Maybe if we knew this it would have been, don't turbo, buy an xf throttle body
However, you would get an improvement, I just don't think it would be 50-60hp
On another note, 19 degrees igntion timing, a ****load more air coming in, and stock fuel, were you running extremely lean?
dyno power amounts to ****. my 106rwkw's gets the vl down the 1/4 in 14.6. some people reckon they can put a k'n filter on and get more than kw's then i got with heads,cam,intake.
that dyno in redcliffe is the most overrated dyno i have seen. the figures that come out of they are stupid
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Well by little i mean about $1500 which is not alot more then your basic rebuild. But this relys on you being able to do all or most of the work yourself:P. If that seems like a reasonable amount to you i can go into more detail on what exactly to get and what to do etc... havn't done this myself but plan to very soon and have done loads of research and pricing.:P
It could be done for about $1000 if your cheap:P and don't bother to replace barings etc....
Byut you can also cut costs down heaps buy selling what you don't need or have left over. And i do consider $1500 cheap as after you sell off alot of the lefted over stuff, it will be cut down to like $900 maybe less if you get lucky. and that is cheap considering some people spend that on an exhaust that wont produce anywhere then the power gains of the twin cam head .
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
monary327 could you go into more details please?
an rb25DE would cost you $1000-$1500ish.
use the pistons from that as well as the head, loom, computer, sensors etc.
then you'd need gaskets, new bearings, seals etc, machining, etc etc... i'd say to do it for $1500 you'd have to have access to a machine shop and know how to do it all yourself.
i agree that it would be the best mod on an n/a though, apart from a 5spd conversion if it isnt already.
Well if you in sydney JustJaps sell r33 half cuts for $999 this give you the hole rb25de motor wiring loom and ecu(plus you get a gearbox and brakes which you can then sell to get some money back:P) Now i recommend you take all the sensors off the rb25de and use the rb25de wiring loom and ecu(the 2.5 litre ECU is fine as these engine use AFM so the computer will see that the engine is sucking more air and add more fuel.). As for the rebuild part if you check out SkylinerAus forums plenty of them using TURBO engines do a straight sway without getting the block bored or the head machined. Now i'am absolutely sure that if a turbo engine can handle a straight sway then an N/A engine will.
Anyway now that for $1000 you've got the engine loom ecu covered. All you have to buy(well don't have to but i recommend you get new piston rings/bearings and head gasket, some people have basicly just bolted the head straight on but i figure while it's apart do the works.) All you need to buy are new RB30 Head Gasket(from holden about $80 i was told.) new set of bearings and piston rings. Yes for best performence you should use the RB25 pistons to get a CR of 10.5:1, RB30 pistons will only give 8.3:1.
You should also use the water and oil pumps off the RB25 block(Don't have to but i've read that they are better and go straight on). You also have to buy a new timing belt(varies depending on what mounting method you decide on cost about $30-80) and two belt tensioners(bout $70). Now if you want to keep VVT this will probably be the most costly part and might throw the budget out a bit depending on how much of the work you can do yourself. it's not hard to block the oil sender hole with some plastic metal weld stuff.but drilling and tapping the hole some people might need help on. But i personally think VVT is a worth while expense.
I can provide more info if need on how to actually go about all this, Please also note that you will have to use the RB25 intel manifold and throttle body(which i've read is slightly better anyway). Also the Rb30 exhaust manifold will not exactly match.
monaro 327, mate rang justjap and that 999
it's an RB20e and auto
if you want 33 half cut with manual box- 4500
series II 3700 for series 1
So, not quite 999
******* lied to me.
Quote from Email.
@$999.00 is R33 VVT RB25de Front Cut Automatic with wiring loom,computer &
air flow meter etc.
Best regards,
Darron Corrigan
Manager.
JustJap Auto Imports
www.justjap.com (http://www.justjap.com)
101 Bath Road
Kirrawee
NSW 2232
Sydney,Australia.
Phone.+61 (02) 9545 0532
Fax. +61 (02) 9542 1684
Oh well they sell the rb25de with wiring loom for $995 no ecu though so can still be done fairly cheap.
