I assume you're refering to me, because I practically own this thread now.
You need:
-gearbox (with crossmember)
-manual tailshaft
-shifter (with knob)
-manual surround (trim in cabin)
-clutch fork (with bearing)
-manual spigot (get new from Repco etc)
-manual sandwich plate
-starter motor (N/A auto, manual & turbo manual are all the same)
-flywheel
-clutch (pressure plate, friction plate)
-master cylinder/slave cylinder
-clutch pedal (pedal boxes are the same, simply add the clutch pedal in & swap brake pedals)
-brake pedal
-manual ECU
Have you got an eBay link or something for me to check for you?
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdvl
I assume you're refering to me, because I practically own this thread now.
You need:
-gearbox (with crossmember)
-manual tailshaft
-shifter (with knob)
-manual surround (trim in cabin)
-clutch fork (with bearing)
-manual spigot (get new from Repco etc)
-manual sandwich plate
-starter motor (N/A auto, manual & turbo manual are all the same)
-flywheel
-clutch (pressure plate, friction plate)
-master cylinder/slave cylinder
-clutch pedal (pedal boxes are the same, simply add the clutch pedal in & swap brake pedals)
-brake pedal
-manual ECU
Have you got an eBay link or something for me to check for you?
ah im in NZ so this is our ebay lol
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=145274800 (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=145274800)
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Yes mate, that has everything.
If you noticed, it also includes free fitting. Its a bit hard to sell you and fit a kit that doesn't work when parts are missing...
They go for around $500, so you're being charged $500 in labour. I've been quote $1100-$1250 supplied and fitted, so thats not too bad.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
You can use your existing crossmember as they are the same, starter motors are the same except for turbo manual(MX7) and you can use your auto ecu in a manual but not a manual ecu in an auto.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stooge
You can use your existing crossmember as they are the same, starter motors are the same except for turbo manual(MX7) and you can use your auto ecu in a manual but not a manual ecu in an auto.
The crossmembers aren't the same. The auto is taller on (I think) the driver's side. If you are certain Stooge, I'll check my car and spare auto this weekend. Not trying to shoot you down, but I think they're the same.
However, the starter motor and ECU points are correct.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRGD6
Wow, I hope that amongst all those cable ties and mediocirty you managed some high tensile bolts! JK
When I did my conversion I didn't bridge the wires down near the battery like everyone else seems to do, and chopped and changed between manual and auto ECUs like no bodies business. All I did was bridge two wires in a plug on the fire wall (the neutral start wires) and we were fine.
The old switch should be coming off this week and I'll bridge the wires...now that I know how! He is chasing up the bloke he bought the box off for the bolts, we should be able to get at least the bottom ones done. If we can get the top ones we'll do them too, but if not they can wait till the clutch needs replacing! (It was about 50% worn). Bear in mind my position - Thursday night, as I'm halfway through building a new room downstairs and trying to get my SLR back on the road, my son rocks up and says "Dad, I've got all the bits here to convert my car to manual. We've got the weekend to do it, and it must be going by Monday morning so I can get to work...and we have to do it outside...on jackstands...in winter...in Tassie
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
No VLs have an electronic speedo sender. Manual skylines do, but not VLs. They all use the same speedo cable, and the MX7 (manual turbo box) use a slightly different speedo sender unit to the rest. The VL ECU has nothing to do with the veichles speed.
On VLs with cruise control, the analogue (cable) signal is converted to an electric signal at the speedometer, and that is sent to the cruise control ECU. This is the only place and time where this happens.
On the manual box, you should notice two plugs hanging off - one is for reverse lights, the other is for the neutral safety switch. Pretty sure from memory the reverse light sensor is the one closest to the rear of the gearbox.
Both the reverse lights and neutral safety switch plug into the same yellow and white plug that the auto plugs into, found on the firewall, to the right of the brake booster.
You'll really want to install the manual spigot ASAP, because without it the input shaft vibrates excessively when the motor is revved in neutral. I didn't do it and it eventually led (in part) to the death of the gearbox. They're $5.
Just for those that are interested:
Here's the difference between the auto bellhousing bolts and the manual bellhousing bolts. The bolts required to bolt the manual box to the motor (on the left) are a fair stretch longer than the auto bellhousing bolts. High tensile bolts are a good idea as well - if you've ever drilled out a snapped exhaust stud you'll know how much fun it is, so multiply that by ten and imagine drilling the bolts out from between the top of the motor and the firewall.
This is the alternative to bridging the purple wires near the battery. We didn't have the manual loom which would effectively do the same job so we made do with this. As a trade off we didn't have reverse lights, but they could be wired up as well. In short, a manual loom isn't imperitive and it can be fabricated, however it's suggested that for ease of install and to finish the job one is sourced.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
my "loom" if u can call it that, is this
bridged the 2 wires that make the car start with a lil cable and 2 male ends.
a long piece of speaker wire (thick stuff) with ends on it, plugged into the box, and played touching the wires at the plug till i got reverse lights when it was in reverse....
the plug i used was the one at the firewall.....
if u need pics, ill do it a little later
SC walkthrough pics much CHRGD6?
But seriously, they do illustrate their points well. When it came to the Park/Neutral lockout, I wanted a permanent solution. I cut off the grey plug in the second picure, and bridged single pairs of wires until I got a combination that allowed the car to start. I soldered these two wires together, and sealed the others off with electrical tape.
Then I took all 6 wires and taped them into the loom they originate from - no more plug or stump of wires. To neaten it even more, I pushed the wiring back down behind the brake booster, and under the clutch master cylinder. You barely notice the wiring once a motor is installed.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdvl
SC walkthrough pics much CHRGD6?
Yeah, gee, how did I get my hands on those *shifty eyes*
Your method certainly sounds a lot neater and much more professional than ours!
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Hahaha, all good dude. I won't tell if you don't.
I might get a photo of it, just for the hell of it.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
hey guys, I had to replace my Starter motor today and while I was doing so I noticed this wire with a bracket on the end of it just hanging there i followed it and it leads to the top of the gearbox. does anyone know where its ment to go ?? I took some pics but there arent that great, i just dropped a reconed egine in acouple of weeks ago and got a few mates to help me i marked where everything went but one of my mates undid everything under the car so i have no clue where it was before on the old engine.
Thats right up close to it
then theres one from further back so you can kind of see where it is located. the starter motor is on the right.
any one that knows where its ment to go please let me kno im worried coz i dont kno what its ment to do or anything
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
The autos have a vacuum line that attaches to a T piece on the back of the intake manifold. If you're running a manual, you can discard it and block of the empty port on the intake manifold.
Is it an MF5, MX7 or R33 gearbox? The R33 gearboxes have a breather line.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gasguzler
hey guys ive got a vl wreck im stripping, how do i remove the complete pedal box, does the whole steering column have to be removed??
At least dropped. You've have a lot of difficulty otherwise. FYI the manual and auto pedal boxes are identical; you only really need the pedals.
gasguzzla: na you dont have to remove the whole steering column, all you have to do is unbolt the two bolts supporting the column, then loosen the rubber moulding supporting the column itself so you can turn it slightly to the side. Once you have pulled out all the bolts connecting the pedal box to the floor (from both inside the interior and engine bay, think theres two in the bay) you can slip the pedal box pedals over the column with abit of manoevering.
instructions were al;l spot on bought myslef a donnor car so i could get everything out of that hardest part was replacing the centre bearin the manual one was flogged out and u dont need to drop the steering colom just remove the plastic cover off steering colum and u can get atright to it didnt bother changing brake pedal just cut it with angle grinder does the job just need to no where u can buy the rubber boot from the body to the gear box my doonor didnt have on and gm dont make them anymore and the wreckers wont sell it without box
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrownVLSL
instructions were al;l spot on bought myslef a donnor car so i could get everything out of that hardest part was replacing the centre bearin the manual one was flogged out and u dont need to drop the steering colom just remove the plastic cover off steering colum and u can get atright to it didnt bother changing brake pedal just cut it with angle grinder does the job just need to no where u can buy the rubber boot from the body to the gear box my doonor didnt have on and gm dont make them anymore and the wreckers wont sell it without box
thats abit silly, cutting the brake pedal off, why not just do it properly and take it out together, then if u ever needed to put it back in you can. Id rather do it properly to be honest lol
