and the sifter sits very high and a lot further towards the rear of the car when its in gear. shortened shifter would be a good idea hey grant

...................The 10" Flywheel Fits You Mother Farker...............

HAHA, lets all just agree that there must be some differences in the castings or something as some DO and some DONT! i am using a 10" flywheel and it fitted perfect,the actual pressure plate on the clutch ground its own relief but! Tempest, did you end up using the vlt (10") clutch and flywheel? Ifso, what throwout bearing carrier did u use? Im still havent found out if i need to machine my r33 carrier.

used the 33 one. figured i was using the 33 slave, so i should use the 33 carrier... you are gay hilly. it didn't fit... even after i attacked it with a die-grinder... it sorted it's self out though, hahahaha. Alloy vs. steel. haha. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

well i used the 9.5" as i got a better (stronger) clutch for a better price verses the 10" one.

Quote: Originally Posted by RB30T LH Hey guys, here is the differences between the MX7 and r33 carriers!!!! the VLt carrier measures 24.24mm from where the fork rubs to where the bearing sits against, and the r33 is 18.2mm. Does this sound about right to every1 else? I didnt think they would be 6mm different. I am now going to use the mx7 carrier with a vlt clutch, and r33 master and slave cylinders. i used my n/a vl one accidently when we converted, and it blew the clutch up in 2 weeks, make sure you use the r33 one!

Quote: Originally Posted by LJ_MAN not sure if its already been said as i havent read the whole thread but whats the final ratio of an r33 5 speed. im about to get one and im also building my diff atm and not sure on the diff ratio i should use. i have a 3.9 but am thinking a 3.45 would be better. you think it would rev its tits off with the 3.9 or what. just interested in the diff ratio's everyones using with there skyline box. thanks in advance. nick i have 3.9s and a 33 box and yeah it does rev alot, i feel that the 33 box is a bit shorter than the n/a 5 speed was, especially in first, but maybe it's just my imagination **** yeah doggy

R33 GTST has a 4.363 final drive ratio standard. The GTR's used a 4.111. 300ZX TT used 3.369 VL used 3.45 VL MF5 box gear ratios 1 - 3.321, 2 - 1.901, 3 - 1.308, 4 - 1.000, 5 - 0.759 VLT MX7 box ratios 1 - 3.580, 2 - 2.077, 3 - 1.360, 4 - 1.000, 5 - 0.760 R33 GTST, R34 GTT, R32,33 GTR, 300ZX TT box ratios 1 - 3.214, 2 - 1.925, 3 - 1.302, 4 - 1.000, 5 - 0.752 OK. gain in KM/H per 1000rpm in each gear in a VL, MF5, 3.45 diff (205/65/15) 1 - 10.65, 2 - 18.61, 3 - 27.05, 4 - 35.58, 5 - 46.61 VL, MX7, 3.45 diff (205/65/15) 1 - 9.88, 2 - 17.03, 3 - 26.01, 4 - 35.38, 5 - 46.55 Standard R33 GTST (225/50/16) 1 - 8.49, 2 - 14.17, 3 - 20.95, 4 - 27.28, 5 - 36.27 VL, R33 box, 3.45 diff (205/65/15) 1 - 11.01, 2 - 18.38, 3 - 27.17, 4 - 35.38, 5 - 47.04 VL, R33 box, 3.91 diff (205/65/15) 1 - 9.71, 2 - 16.22, 3 - 23.97, 4 - 31.22, 5 - 41.51 So with that you can see that the R33 box uses a much taller 1st gear than the MX7, which is good because the std 1st in a VLT is next to usless. 2nd and 3rd are slightly closer spaced than the MX7 which should aid in acceleration, 4th is standard through all boxes, and the taller 5th in the R33 box will help with economy while cruising, especially if you opt for a higher final drive ratio. If you want a handy program for working all this out (it shows speeds and rpm in gears, at peak power and redline, graphs etc.) Download it here. (http://locost7.info/gearcalc.php)

dno if its been said, but what if u got a R33 GTST auto gearbox and u've already got a auto? (mines a VLT running a n/a auto box) would it be worth it? nay or yay? ;p

Quote: Originally Posted by 87calais R33 GTST has a 4.363 final drive ratio standard. The GTR's used a 4.111. 300ZX TT used 3.369 VL used 3.45 VL MF5 box gear ratios 1 - 3.321, 2 - 1.901, 3 - 1.308, 4 - 1.000, 5 - 0.759 VLT MX7 box ratios 1 - 3.580, 2 - 2.077, 3 - 1.360, 4 - 1.000, 5 - 0.760 R33 GTST, R34 GTT, R32,33 GTR, 300ZX TT box ratios 1 - 3.214, 2 - 1.925, 3 - 1.302, 4 - 1.000, 5 - 0.752 OK. gain in KM/H per 1000rpm in each gear in a VL, MF5, 3.45 diff (205/65/15) 1 - 10.65, 2 - 18.61, 3 - 27.05, 4 - 35.58, 5 - 46.61 VL, MX7, 3.45 diff (205/65/15) 1 - 9.88, 2 - 17.03, 3 - 26.01, 4 - 35.38, 5 - 46.55 Standard R33 GTST (225/50/16) 1 - 8.49, 2 - 14.17, 3 - 20.95, 4 - 27.28, 5 - 36.27 VL, R33 box, 3.45 diff (205/65/15) 1 - 11.01, 2 - 18.38, 3 - 27.17, 4 - 35.38, 5 - 47.04 VL, R33 box, 3.91 diff (205/65/15) 1 - 9.71, 2 - 16.22, 3 - 23.97, 4 - 31.22, 5 - 41.51 So with that you can see that the R33 box uses a much taller 1st gear than the MX7, which is good because the std 1st in a VLT is next to usless. 2nd and 3rd are slightly closer spaced than the MX7 which should aid in acceleration, 4th is standard through all boxes, and the taller 5th in the R33 box will help with economy while cruising, especially if you opt for a higher final drive ratio. If you want a handy program for working all this out (it shows speeds and rpm in gears, at peak power and redline, graphs etc.) Download it here. (http://locost7.info/gearcalc.php) very interesting post, although with 3.9s and a 33 box in my vlt 1st is ridiculously short, i cannot imagine it being even shorter with a vlt box! Perhaps my car has 4.11s instead, as the guy before me told me the ratios but i cant remember. Is there any way to check if i pull the rear of the housing off the diff? Will the ring gear have a different number of teeth or something?

anyone figured out to wire up the reverse lights? mine are only on when i am IN all forward gears...

sounds like you either have it wired to the neutral position switch or a neutral switch is in the reverse hole in the box.

thought that. i have switched all the wires around and still can't make them work...

you have the neutral switch in the reverse hole and the reverse switch in the neutral hole. One switch in normally open and the other is Normally closed, so you cant just swap the wires over, you need to swap the switches over. Quote: Originally Posted by ATMO_BT1 very interesting post, although with 3.9s and a 33 box in my vlt 1st is ridiculously short, i cannot imagine it being even shorter with a vlt box! Perhaps my car has 4.11s instead, as the guy before me told me the ratios but i cant remember. Is there any way to check if i pull the rear of the housing off the diff? Will the ring gear have a different number of teeth or something? Well i had an MX7 with 3.45s and 1st was pretty much usless. i was thinking that the R33 box with either 3.7's or 3.9's would be a good combination. To check your ratio you have 2 options. 1. Jack the car up, remove the diff cover plate and the ratio is stamped in the crownwheel. 2. jack the car up, select neutral, mark the pinion flange and housing, mark a tyre and the ground below it. turn the tailshaft by hand and count how many revolutions the pinion makes compared to the wheel. e.g. if the pinion had to be turned 3.9 times to make 1 wheel revolution you have 3.9's...

i have 3.7's, they rock. 3.9 are to short IMHO.

My reverse lights don't work either? And my shifter is gay*looks at grant to make him a sweet one*

hey guys sorry to start this agen but... i am only 17 and i brought a n/a vl calais so i have no idea of changing a r33gtst 5 speed gear box convertion.... but i would love to pay and do it because of me not knowing how to do it, but i just wanted to know how much its is going to cost for makiing some machanic to do it for me does anyone have a clue i gess i already know its about $900 - $1500 in cost but i just wanted to know total in installing it aswell as parts.... thankz guys .... plz help

if you can come to sydney i can get it in for you for cheap. Shops want 1200+ i can get it done for you for less than half that

If you were in brissy i would do it for a couple of hundred...

Quote: 3) All VL gearbox crossmembers are the same. even auto - manual. its only the gearbox mounts off the crossmember that differ. The MF5 or MX7 crossmember will bolt straight up to the skyline box. The Spacers are needed on the MX7 and R33 boxes. Without them the box hits on the floorpan under hard acceleration. they also provide more clearance around the speedo drive area. i just did an auto to manual convert and i can tell ya those x-members were not the same at all. the manual one has a big bend in it, way different Some original photos have not been recovered yet.