I get roughly 150k's outta a 1/4 tank, sometimes less depends on the foot and my car has a cam which has reduced fuel economy, and this is round town only, very rarely sees the highway.....100km/h it not used to anymore :s wonder if she remembers how to do it lol..... one day ill go for cruise to ballarat to have some fun, stretch her legs, not good is it, hardly ever doin 100... unless im speedin in town hehe. not that i woudl :| Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by XR6KLR I'm Getting 400 - 450kms outta Highway driving (doin bout 2 grand), with PULP. I thought this was really bad, but it seems that it's not as bad as i thought! Still gunna try the AFM thing. Checked it the other day and boy was i suprised! It gave me a reading of 60.5! Now i have chnged it to 382, the car seems to be running alot better ( smoother, slightly more power) Dunno about fuel yet though, But it will get a test next week when i drive down the coast.

grrrr I envy all u people that get 400 k's outta a tank! I still get 200 to the tank, even driving like grandma!!! .. this is what I have replaced: had injectors flow tested and cleaned AFM back to 386 ohms fully serviced the car changed spark plugs had the regulator tested, its fine had the O2 sensor tested, its fine had the CTS tested, its fine It doesnt make a difference whether I drive around like granda, or sticking the boot in everywhere, I still get 200 km's to the tank. And considering I drive roughly 800km's a week, petrol is consting me an absolute fortune! Now I am thinking the problem is in the wiring, but I dont wanna get ripped on the dyno Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

just got 230km out of 23litres of shell optimax, thats mostly doing start stop driving, would hav been better if there wasnt so much construction work thru ballarat road, i hate it, grrrrrrrrrr!

I have a wagon and normally get about 380-400km's out of a tank. I drove to Mt Bulla on the weekend and got about 500km's out a tank of fuel. Thats the difference between city and country driving i guess!

ok what should the reading be in the cable which connects to the afm???? should it be the same reading as the afm??? i tested mine just then, afm gave 383...cable gave 752 on the outside pins.. is that normal???

also, i seem to be losing fuel overnight. i replaced the breather hose which was disconnected and connected it back up, but things havent changed. i don't see and liquid leaks....smells rich too.....afm reading is 383 as i said above.....breather hoses were all fine.....wat else could it be??? there is no dark black stuff on my exhaust either.. only getiing bout 350 - 400 with highway driving in a 5sp n/a.

btw.........i just did a self diagnosis with the computer and got the normal flashes as said in the gregory's manual......but i kept getting 12.....which indicates the afm...does this mean its fuct??? i reads 383 ohms which is factory.

that little black cap was a real prick to get out. why have a cover, that is a real prick to get off, and can never go back on again? im no expert obviously, but i would be thinking that simply having the right resistance isnt going to mean that its working fine. there could be problems in the wiring or whatever is connected to the wires at the other end. think of it this way. your checking the resitance between 2 pins. there are 4 (?) other pins that could be connected to **** that isnt working

Where did 382ohms come from to change your AFM too? I have a program called "Repco Auto-Tech Mechanic". they say that the factory default setting for the afm on a vl should be set to 500ohms where did 382 come from and is it accurate??

heard it off this site....if this is right what should it really be?

trust me vl dude 03 its wrong, i dont know where people found out it should be 382 but it has always worked better for people at that setting and when you buy a new afm if its not a dud it will already be set to 382, then you put it in and the car runs gr8, if you set it to 500 the car will run lean and it will run a little on the laggy side, if u wanna try different numbers try 330 or 320, mine is set to 320 and the car goes much better all through the rev range, especially low end and with no loss of fuel economy

How about a checklist for all the things you can change in the illusive hunt for better fuel economy? - Replace fuel, oil and air filter - Check/replace/adjust air flow meter, oxygen sensor - Check/replace crank angle sensor, coolant temp sensor, distributor - Check/replace fuel lines - Check/replace/clean fuel injectors - Replace ignition leads - Replace spark plugs - Check/replace exhaust (backpressure, faulty gaskets etc.) - Check/replace fuel regulator - Run Premium Unleaded Petrol all the time - Run some injector cleaner/octane booster etc. through your system - Hope all the money you've spent, in the quest for getting better fuel economy, averages out your fuel economy in the long run for the better... Anything to add?

I wonder how much k's a brand new N/A (stock 5sp) VL did on a tank not thrashing, just driving normal.

Well I'm going to MT Hotham tomorrow with 2 other mates so we'll see on how much k's I can do on a tank, tho the car will be under load with 3 ppl and clothes and errr most importantly BooZe! heee heee heee. >>=]

I'm near the end of my second tank on my VL since buying it. First tank the ODO read 545 when I filled it up (not sure what it took, around 58L I think, regular unleaded). This tank looks like it'll give a similar return. My driving is a mix of 60k's, 80k's and 100k's with some stop/start driving along the way. The car is an N/A 5 speed with tuned length extractors, 2-1/2" exhaust, and has had a cam and chip fitted (specs unknown). I don't give it too hard of a time, but do rev it out to around 4500-5000rpm before changing gears if I'm in the mood. Just before getting it the previous owner changed plugs, leads, dizzy rotor and cap. I haven't checked the AFM but the cap is missing from the screw so it's most likely had some adjustment at some stage. I'll check it out when I get time and am thinking about it. My old VL had the classic rich running symptoms, smell, crap economy, lacking power. After wasting money on mechanics who would change something that didn't fix the problem I ended up finding out the muffler was shot. On acceleration there was a buzzing coming from under the car, I thought cat heatshield was loose. Got it checked and a tap on the muffler showed it was the problem. $50 for a near new sports system at the wreckers and economy picked up straight away, as did power. With the muffler basically having no guts left, the backpressure was way off what it should have been. That car was an auto with a shot overdrive clutch in the torque converter and I went from around 320k's to 450k's per tank of regular unleaded, closer to 520 if i ran premium.

u lucky *******! 545km per tank on reg unleaded!

545k's out of 58 litres, and it sounds like u giv it sum revs, sound right 2 me, i wouldnt change nothing 2 get it better if i were u

I'm stoked, checked the odo on the trip home from work tonight and it appears to be accurate too. Didn't fill up today but put $20 to get me to work and back and it was reading 532k's then, needle was about 2 widths off the red. As for running the car low and not filling at 1/4 tank all I do is every 6th tank or so I'll run a tank of PULP through the car, and about every 6 months I'll chuck in a can of the Holden top engine cleaner, seemed to help on the old VL with keeping economy and performance up, once I got it sorted out. I don't give it a hard time that often, but it goes so well I just have to do it sometimes. Thought I'd regret selling the supercharged VT, it went so good with the exhaust and pulley mods, but this VL goes well enough to help me not worry about the VT.

Hey guys, beforehand I was getting really poor, maybe 300km's. Just got a new o2 sensor and cat, now on a nice 530km to a tank.