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VL Commodore
N/A to VLT - Piece by Piece list
Started by my88vl · 13 Feb 2003 · 249 repliesPreserved from CalaisTurbo (partial recovery). Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.
07-09-05, 21:44 GMT+10#122
surely theres somewhere else you can get oil from tho
like the oil switch or something, thats where most people take a supply from when turbo'ing something that never came with a turbo to begin with
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07-09-05, 21:54 GMT+10#123
Well I'm sure it can be done, its just not as easy as the S2 blocks.
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21-09-05, 09:17 GMT+10#124
In about to get underway with a conversion for a ser1 non turbo 86 man vl. What I wanna know is ive seen around the forums that a non turbo manual is much weaker then a turbo. By this is it meant the whole transmission is weaker or just the gearbox?
What would I need to get changed on my car regarding my transmission, gearbox to make it tuffer after a turbo conversion?
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21-09-05, 09:29 GMT+10#125
Well the non turbo manual gearbox will hold up pretty well - so long as you treat it with a bit of respect. If you really wanted to do everything properly you'd track down a factory turbo/v8 28 spline rear and hook that into the equation.
And upgrade your front brakes aswell.. But the manual will last as long as you treat it nicely and don't go snapping through gears.
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22-09-05, 12:19 GMT+10#126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bax
factory turbo/v8 28 spline rear and hook that into the equation.
And upgrade your front brakes aswell.. But the manual will last as long as you treat it nicely and don't go snapping through gears.
So Bax are u saying that I need to get a turbo v8 28 spline diff and upgrade my front brakes and bobs ur unkle?
What I wanna know is what about the tranny it self ? or the gearbox or both and say I snap thru gears what else would I need to upgrade?
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22-09-05, 12:35 GMT+10#127
The tranny is the gearbox mate.
You don't have to put on the 28 spline rear. Rear discs are what you want though.
If your going to give it a real big hiding I'd invest in doing your entire driveline.
Depending on the power your going to have.
25 Spline Disc rear. What the n/a calais has. Will do you fine unless your going to be crazy with it, have lots of power and do burnouts all the time. Just like the N/A Manual gearbox, it will last as long as your not doing burnouts.
Either way, brakes are a definate upgrade in my opinion. Discs on the rear as a minimum, and vlt on the front. as a minimum.
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22-09-05, 13:42 GMT+10#128
turbos arnt all about top speed guys so why becuase he got a turbo you think hes gonna be driving any faster?
dont worry about brakes upgrade them later
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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22-09-05, 14:02 GMT+10#129
It's not so much speed. But theres alot to do with momentum. And theres something to do with the turbo that encourages... Spiritful driving. Do the brakes.
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22-09-05, 14:28 GMT+10#130
do ya brakes seriously!!! They didn't come out on factory turbos for no reason!
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22-09-05, 15:08 GMT+10#131
yeah do em but you dont need it for a turbo conversion get the turbo done first man once sorted pull up in your garage and fit some bigger brakes for sure
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25-09-05, 10:50 GMT+10#132
[QUOTE=VLT_CONV]Hi im doing a turbo conversion on a SII Auto Exec.
Brakes: 90% of braking is done in the front so upgrade the front at least. Drums pull up as good as disks in a one off situation they just dont cool off as quick. If you had VT twin spots up front, NA drums rear, and had to slow the 150+KW down after accelerating hard on the freeway you wouldnt have any trouble. The only thing is with drums you get that terrible VL spongey pedal feel. I'll tell you one thing though stock NA Front disc brake system is the exact same as on a sigma. The sigma is even too overpowered for that system let alone a modified VL turbo.
As for NA Auto: Turboluke, have you seen an NA auto tranny hold up with a turbo conversion? How long would you give it with a cooler?
I have most parts ready for the actual turbo conversion but only have an auto NA gearbox. Im hoping my DBA x-drilled slotted and NA auto will withstand the pain till i can afford a decent box and brakes.
DO NOT PUT CROSS DRILLED AND SLOTTED ROTORS ON YOUR CAR YOU WILL CRACK THE IF YOU GIVE THEM A HARD TIME I DID IN 15,000 KMS AND THAT WASNT EVEN ON A TURBO!!!!!!! AND DBA HAD ONE LOOK AT THEM AND TRIED TO SHIFT THE BLAME OHH YOU GOT THEM TOO HOT!!! ECT WASTE OF TIME TRUST ME !!
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28-09-05, 16:59 GMT+10#133
Okay what bolts are needed then,
obviously the T pices for the oil libes and water lines. whatabout exhaust manifold, boltign the turbo up. and dump pipes form the turbo to cat?
Also can you get premade intercooler piping for a vl commodore made up already?? or does it need to be custom to fit your car with what you got in the way of the piping?
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15-11-05, 11:50 GMT+10#134
what do you need to do with the bottom end of a n/a vl to be on the safe side if i was to run say 12 - 15psi
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15-11-05, 12:34 GMT+10#136
how much would it cost approx to get the oil and water lines tapped in
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15-11-05, 12:56 GMT+10#137
what eva you do don't use n/a injectors and ecu for a turbo conversion. i tryed it with n/a injectors and it pinged it's head off at 4000rpm with the timing set at 5 btdc on 6psi.
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15-11-05, 13:03 GMT+10#138
If done right, excellent results can be reaped reliabily on low boost. Many ppl shortcut on the fueling side and wonder why they crack pistons and such. I made. Don't skimp. Yes turbo front brakes make a huge difference. I have done this highly reccomended for $100 bucks or so it will cost.
Cheers.
Lowey.
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15-11-05, 13:03 GMT+10#139
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveo_69
what do you need to do with the bottom end of a n/a vl to be on the safe side if i was to run say 12 - 15psi
Good management and a tune.
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15-11-05, 13:27 GMT+10#140
how much would it cost approx to get the oil and water lines tapped in
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