bearing noise could be the thrust bearing at the front of the box mate... should have came with your clutch kit?

Quote: Originally Posted by Xibit0r [View Post] bearing noise could be the thrust bearing at the front of the box mate... should have came with your clutch kit? the noise seems isolated to just 3rd and 4th though, ill do some more testing... i didnt install the clutch myself so ill ask next time i have a chat to the guys. noise does sound to be coming from infront of the gearstick though, just the feeling i got, we will see.

they would have changed the thrust bearing when they changed the clutch so i doubt its that, i cant wait to hear/see this thing running... 200kms to a tank... thats INSANE lol

Quote: Originally Posted by evl 25t [View Post] they would have changed the thrust bearing when they changed the clutch so i doubt its that, i cant wait to hear/see this thing running... 200kms to a tank... thats INSANE lol 200km sounds about right....... if you were thrashing it and running around with 18-20psi! lol (I recall getting approx 250km out of my 3540 setup, and apparently motec were meant to be good on fuel..bah! or bad tune ) Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

man seriously, your car + my mouth = Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

absolute c**t of a thing to manouvre, nearly hurt it badly twice just trying to get it back in the garage. now 100% convinced its a tuning issue, sure i need to get used to that heavy clutch but because it doesnt rev or idle right, especialy when it cops a bit of load (eg starting/stopping) it stalls out. still getting used to the clutch, i think stalling it is hurting it though. used another 1/2 a tank of fuel, but was mostly highway crusing, clock is at 350km, touch wood, and depending on how keen my mate is on thurs, hopefully do another hundred or so 2moro night then try put three or four more hundred on it on thurs...

well, went to **** last night... started running really rough, made a tick, thought, **** tappets gone, but then it seemed to be just missing, so we all assumed it would just be carboned up plugs... got it out this morning and got the plugs out and gave them all a clean, came up heaps better, seemed like it was only missing 1 this time, felt like must have been two before. noticed that #6 still seemed pretty clean, like #6 was half as carboned up as the rest. so we got a tow to rotormotion, where we elected to get new plugs, so after hanging around for a bit, and me chucking in a new set of plugs, mike managed to squeeze in a quick look (which i was happy about, since its a friday) and he had a play on his laptop... turns out there is an issue with an injector drive in the computer. so now its in a box being sent to michrotech, and i had to return the car home (another tow) into the garage of death, as jack knows. so this sundays photoshoot, not attending annual bbq cruise, not attending on a side note mannaged 875 kms haha, almost enough to be happy, but as it stands now ill get the car back and running and do another 800+ before i get it retuned, hopefully the fuelling issues dont **** me over, we'll see. not gonna lie, im pretty dissapointed, but i think a two week break where i can focus on some assignment work, and knuckle down and make some more money, will ultimately work out better for me in the long run.

LOL. ecu sent to microtech for repairs....mmmmm hopefully they don't take too long anyways, as you said - gotta be happy about the km's you've done! and problems are being solved! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

unlucky with the ****ed ecu, kinda demoralising i know exactly what its like, but once you get it on the road and it's all sorted and pumps out some massive horsepower you'll be stoked! and remember with great power, comes great responsiblity and big ****ing skids!

Quote: Originally Posted by genki [View Post] LOL. ecu sent to microtech for repairs....mmmmm hopefully they don't take too long oh... do they take a while? bummer... btw, i just thought i'd add, it was #6 that had the faulty drive, thus why #6s plug looked so clean, forgot to add that. ill just try not to think about it, try and forget about that lump of white metal living in my garage for the time beeing. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by TheChad [View Post] oh... do they take a while? bummer... btw, i just thought i'd add, it was #6 that had the faulty drive, thus why #6s plug looked so clean, forgot to add that. ill just try not to think about it, try and forget about that lump of white metal living in my garage for the time beeing. Have they said how long it'll take? Personally I haven't had to send anything to microtech, but it's pretty well known (mostly because I'm friends with a few rotor enthusiasts who obviously like microtechs). but you'll be fine! just wait and see, roto's should look after you, i'm sure they know what they're doing Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

got the ecu back yesterday, they "replaced all injector drivers" (that was all the correspondence included with the returned ecu). so we figured hey, i should just be able to plug it back in and it will be on the same tune as before! so i plugged it in and went to start the car, the fuel pumps sounded weird as they primed, they went WWWWRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrmmmmmmmmm...... flat battery. two weeks and the brand new supercharge battery is flat, i got a big 660cc, sealed type battery... two weeks to the day and its flat as a tack... does that sound right to anyone? feeling pretty bummed if thats the case, because the whole reason i was talked into buying that brand again was it shouldnt happen. obviously it is a calais so the alarm+central should be sucking some juice, guess it just means once again i need to plan ahead and trickle charge it every night before i want to take it out if its been a week or more since last driven. anyway, charged it, went to start it, idling at 1500 rpm haha, im guessing when mick from rotos jumped in with his laptop the other day he played around with it a little bit to see if he could get it working, it doesnt stall anymore, but its rough as guts to start, and it sounds super lumpy when it starts to rev, kind of like its missing but its too hard to tell, but then revs cleanly from about 2k-> so im thinking might just be a timing issue down low. before i went to pick up the computer i called rotos, they are so busy he didnt have time to see me for atleast another week and a half, so i called ovaboost and they fit me in on friday(week obviously). then when i got to rotos mick was like oh i could probably squeeze you in a run in on monday, i died a little inside... too many back and forths, and last time i had it squeezed in with rotos i felt like i was kind of just getting in their way as they were trying to get thru a carpark worth of hot rotors... so i've elected to let the sleeping dog of a car lie, and deal with it in a week at ovaboost, rather than f**king around one more time. Q1 875kms on the clock... what is everyones oppinions on how good of a run in that is? in that 870 was LOTS of highway 80up to 110 then back to run it in, but also lots of idling and sitting around etc, so its done a fair amount of work. also the bottom end had done a couple of hundred kms before i got it... what do we reckon, good enough to get it tuned up? im thinking full revs, or say redline 7k, and a low boost tune of ~7psi, drive it around for a few hundred more kms then flick the switch to 14 and live like that for a month or so before i go for 20+? Q2 drop the oil at 1000kms, am i better off dropping it before or after the tune at ovaboost if i do go for a full tune? eg drop it now so its fresh oil for the dyno, or drop it as soon as i get it home from the dyno?

with the battery mate, if ur not gonna start the car in a week, just disconnect the terminals and it should stay charged longer i'd say it's good for a low boost tune at that sorta kms yeah, change the oil for a lower weight now, semi/full synth maybe and then tune it. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

nah it should be rite 2 leve for over a month and start no probs especialy with a brand new big **** off battery like you have my bet is u have an earth leak. with the car off pull off the + terminal an connect up an ammeter - if it reads over say 0.5A you have an earth leak. even drawing 0.5A is alot for a car that is turned off and the only power being drawn is the constant for the ecu and the power for the imobiliser

assuming its got a differant grade of oil in it for the run in, you should change that before the tune. but i would ask whoever built it what they want you to do.

Quote: Originally Posted by REALIST [View Post] assuming its got a differant grade of oil in it for the run in, you should change that before the tune. but i would ask whoever built it what they want you to do. Yes. In the end when it comes to running in engines everyone has a different opinion, well I've been told different by quite a few people. But as Realist says; engine builder. they built it, just do whatever they recommend. some say 1000km is "enough" for a run in, and from memory my shop says a few thousand (ffs) - you'll get a different answer from your tuner probably as well (I did). Either way, if you ask those who built it, I guess it's safe to assume that's a good "piece of mind".

Lee said do 1000, but he said 1500+ would be a better idea so maybe another thousand to be sure. Spoke to microtech and they said normally a blown drive (mine was blown) is caused by a faulty coil or bad wiring. So I will wait and see when ovaboost goes to tune it. If it ****s up well know if it's one of those. Obviously the other option that microtech wouldn't mention is that it may have been faulty from the start and simply blown... I'm confused how an injector driver would be effected by a faulty coil though, I assumes they would be driven by seperate Functions...

As said, ask the original builder and see what he says. Grahams VL did near on 1000kms I think before being tuned, but Mick at Ovaboost doesn't think that motors need that long. Mick's torana gets a tickle and a run on the dyno after a rebuild and then full boosted to 800+rwhp not long after that. He says that you will know if there is an issue fairly quickly and a huge run in procedure isn't good. Plus a huge run in can also not be good for your car if your plugs keep fouling and the car keeps over fuelling etc etc. So to summarise, either talk to original engine builder and see what they want, and also have a chat to mick at ovaboost about it. In 10+ years, he has always given great advice and tuned mine, grahams and petes hi powered vl turbos to perfection. And also chat to mick regarding oil. Running in oil is very very bad in his opinion. Check that out aswell. If you use running in oil, or even leave in for too long, then this can be disaster. Jack, you will understand my worry for you and your engine once you speak to mick about all this as he makes alot of sense and I have never heard of him hurting an engine after rebuiling or on his dyno ever...hence why I swear by him. Regards

my engine was built by kostecki's in malaga, andrew said that basically once she goes on the dyno and is tuned she will be run in, all their work is warrantied as long as u follow what they say so sounds good to me. just need to get the damn motor back in! also agree with HoldenOn, as andrew told me to just put my preferred oil in straight away, no run-in oil as there is no need for it.

hahaha wow yours is almost finished too, great! just in time for winter like mine :/ matt (holdenon) thanks for the advice, i guess everyone is right, ill just drop the oil now, put in the recomended oil (regardless of whats already in there) and see what mick at ovaboost says. just hoping that the ecu is all good, i cant tell whats going on with it atm. Matt do you know much about the big autometer tachos? like the one you had and the one i have? because its not reading right? im thinking because it came off a v8, and now its on a 6cyl, its not reading the revs right because its thinking it needs 8 fires, instead of 6? it certainly is about bang on 3/4 of what it should be reading... is it easy to change?