The factory manual gearbox loom has a plug for neutral switch and reverse lights switch on the gearbox; these come together in one larger connecter that plugs into a yellow and white plug on the firewall (same as for the auto). However, the wiring for the car varies in autos and makes the manual neutral switch on the gearbox useless.
It would be more effort to do what you've suggested.
What does that neutral switch do anyway..
I have owned a factory vl 5spd and now have a calais 5spd (converted thanks to this forum), and both cars will start whether it is in neutral or gear, clutch in or out.. (Well it tries to start in gear but just jumps forward unless clutch is in).
I think the neutral switch is a waist of time (unless you have the loom then you might as well plug it in for the sake of it).
I have noticed that on the calais, when in reverse, the light on the dash works.
That light never worked on my original sl even after fitting a tacho dash.
The neutral switch prevents an AUTOMATIC from starting when in any gear other than Park or Neutral.
You will find both of those cars will start in any gear because they are MANUAL - the SL because it was factory manual, and wired to do so; and the Calais, because it was converted, and thus re-wired to do so.
The neutral switch is present in autos because they are electronically controlled, and are able to determine what gear they are in - the function that prevents them to start in any gear is just an option that they're built with (and prevents you from damaging the motor, car or transmission). Manuals are not electronically controlled, and it really isn't necessary to put a neutral safety switch style function in them because generally speaking, manual drivers are more mindful of what gear their car is in.
Calais are wired to have the reverse light on the dash illuminate when placed in reverse; an SL is not. There are two looms for VLs - SL and Executive; and Berlina and Calais. This means factory options (cruise control, power windows, etc) are plug and play with Berlinas and Calais, but not SLs and Executives.
Hey everyone, my mate wants to do a manual conversion to his VL i im just trying to find out what Manual tranny's fit. can you use the 5 spd out of a skyline with an RB30 or does it have to be the Ausie 5 spd that came out in the VL orginally. if the skyline tranny fits is there much mucking around to make it fit. any help would be great.
The manual gearbox found in VLs is not an "Aussie five speed" - think they're actually a Japanese box.
Nissan manual gearboxes from the Skyline range will fit (R31-R34), however GTR boxes have a transfer case which will get in the way. Any manual box from an RB motor with fit, as long as its a RWD box.
Please read the thread before asking questions on information previously thoroughly covered.
i might be blind but i have no 8 wire plug.i have the v8 auto loom.i cant even find the puple wires down side where battery was.i can find 1 purple wire but no other one to join it to
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdvl
They're the same between auto and manual, as far as I know. Leave your footrest in, you'll miss it.
The wires can also be bridged on the firewall at the neutral safety switch plug (big grey plug with 8 wires coming out of it, to the right of the brake booster, leading down behind the motor - see diagram).
(Copyright Gregories Technical Publications)
Number 55, or the highlighted section named "Grey", is the plug I'm refering to. It actually has 8 wires coming out of it (contrary to the diagram), and it connects to the neutral safety switch on the auto trans (tells the auto what gear you've selected). Once you're finished converting, simply cut this plug off (on the brake booster side), and bridge the wires in pairs until you get a combination that allows the car to turn over (there are two cobinations, one for Park, and one for Neutral). Unfortunately, I can't remember exactly what these combos are....maybe red with black stripe and pink?
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
This is clearly for six cylinder engines. Notice how there is also an ECU and automatic transmission ECU for the electronically controlled four speed Jatco auto? Not applicable to you.
Please post some pictures of any looms associated with your trimatic transmission, we may be able to work out what you can do. Have you converted your VL V8 to manual? What manual transmission have you used?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdvl
This is clearly for six cylinder engines. Notice how there is also an ECU and automatic transmission ECU for the electronically controlled four speed Jatco auto? Not applicable to you.
Please post some pictures of any looms associated with your trimatic transmission, we may be able to work out what you can do. Have you converted your VL V8 to manual? What manual transmission have you used?
i have a t5 box which is in and im now up to the wiring,i have just cut the wires off the auto shifter.can i bridge any wires at the shifter?
Yes, you should be able to do that.
I should also point out that that wiring diagram I posted is from the Gregorys six cylinder manual, which doesn't cover V8 at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRGD6
This picture show the plug that the neutral safety switch (auto selector) plugs into on the firewall the RB30. Can you se how the wires are bridged? That basically tricks the car into believing its in either Neutral or Park all the time (so it can start). If you cross pairs of wires one by one where you cut from the auto selector, eventually one combination should allow it to start.
Then just solder them up, wrap it up neatly in electrical tape and tuck it away.
T5 is the manual box from VN-VS V6 right?
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdvl
T5 is the manual box from VN-VS V6 right?
There were two T5s used, one for the V6 and a different one for the V8. The V6 one is weaker and uses a different bellhousing. The T5 was used until the VT I think
Ahhh. I had a VS V6 manual for a while, and the box was crap. My brother's VN V8 manual box is much better by comparison, although tired.
I was under the impression that it was hard to manual conversion on the VL V8 because you needed the SS/Group A/Walky box? Or a bellhousing conversion kit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdvl
Ahhh. I had a VS V6 manual for a while, and the box was crap. My brother's VN V8 manual box is much better by comparison, although tired.
I was under the impression that it was hard to manual conversion on the VL V8 because you needed the SS/Group A/Walky box? Or a bellhousing conversion kit.
The Walkinshaw used a T5G gearbox, a more advanced version of the T5. You might need a bellhousing adaptor, I'm not sure
Has anyone put a t5 or similar behind a rb30?
I have searched the net for conversions or any info on the subject but cant find any.
VL boxes are getting harded to find (in good nick) but there are plenty of t5's around, so it could be a worth while conversion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MADNESS
anyone got any other ways of removing the spriget? i tryed today and now i can see the bone on my left index finger from riping most of the skin off ....
i suck at cars :P
When you remove the old box, assuming that the main shaft that sits in the spiget can be removed from the old gearbox, or you will need anything that is the exact same size.... Find the thickest grease that you can, fill the hole of the spiget with grease as full as you can, put the shaft, or similar item back in, grab a big hammer, and with ONE SHARP blow hit the shaft and the spiget comes out exstreamly easy.... Depending how firm it is in there and how long it has been in there, you may need to refil the hole and give it a couple of goes... but it will come out, no question about it!!!! Cheers, Bomber..
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
yes grease does the trick no joke about it
5spdvl.. By bridging the wires at the fire wall isnt that just operating the relay by the battery? thanks for the cruise control tips, have just converted my royale supercharged and was wondereing about the cruise control.
yes the conversion was a piece of piss...only problem i have is the clutch is not fully releasing. the slave push rod is about 12mm to short. any suggestions?
Quote:
Originally Posted by NZ VL com
the slave push rod is about 12mm to short. any suggestions?
I bought a whole new slave cylinder from repco for about 50 bucks which comes with new (not worn out) push rod, and the rubber seals were heaps better.
Much better than grinding down an old piece of rod (done once on a sunday night after a few beers and lot of swearing just to get the thing going for work in the morning).
Quote:
Much better than grinding down an old piece of rod (done once on a sunday night after a few beers and lot of swearing just to get the thing going for work in the morning).
thats what i have done and it works well
There's nothing special about the pushrod on the slave cylinder; a long bolt cut to length, then rounded on each end, and a locater groove cut in it for the seal will get you going again.
