Hey everyone. Might be a few stupid questions to some but I'm curious and thought I'd reach out and get other peoples advice on this. Last weekend, change rocket cover gasket and cleaned it up. Degreaesd the engine and under neath the car completely. We found out my engine must have been a reco or reco'd head work has been done at some point. We also did the transmission gasket and cleaned the sump. Also ran into a issue and changed the Transmission rubber mount things - MADE THE CAR RUN SUPER DOOPER SMOOTH!!!! Topped up the transmission fluid let it run for a bit. Double checked for leaks...all sweet drove home. The next day I was driving and taking off it was revving up near to 2k revs and then starting gripping the gears (slipping???) and the whole car was stuttering and spinning wheels. Did the same thing when I went up a hill today after work was revving then slowly gripped the gear and slowly took off didint want to rev past 2k slowly crawled from a standstill and kept driving. Today went back told him what was going on. Topped the fluid up a little bit more and the mechanic told the fluid has to circulate and burn more. The slipping is somewhat normal. And we took it for a test drive and it literally stopped and I couldn't prove anything. The mechanic charged me literally $200 for rocket cover gasket and oil, Transmission rubber mounts and cleaning the sump and fluid. Also chucked in a new air filter as the other one was oil stained. Im not pissed off at my mechanic and he literally wants to help me get this car perfect. He is not ripping me off and if anything it costed him more to fix my car and open the shop last weekend than me paying him to fix it. I was on site beside him and his workmate working on the car pointing out everything being done. My question is was it normal for the tranmission to somewhat slip with the new fluid? Or was it a little low on fluid? And how much fluid does a transmission take? He also pointed out next thing on the list is the not-so-easily-accesible injector needs the ring/rubber thing replaced as its leaking fuel which explain my bad fuel economy.

First question: No Second Question: Im assuming this is a VL? A typical drain and refill trans service will take about 4 litres in the auto, a full flush (only specialists can do this) can take 8-9 litres as you flush the converter etc VLs have an auto dipstick, its located near the firewall in the engine bay close to the heater hoses. Start the car, put it in neutral with the handbrake on. Dipstick will have a hot (Higher) and cold (lower) reading so when you first start it youll get a lower (Cold) reading when its first started. If you get no reading at all add half a litre of dexronIII fluid and re-check, add fluid until you reach the cold mark on the dipstick. Either drive the car for 10 mins or let it run until the auto heats up, re-check the level which will now come up around the hot level

Quote: Originally Posted by BigM22 [View Post] First question: No Second Question: Im assuming this is a VL? A typical drain and refill trans service will take about 4 litres in the auto, a full flush (only specialists can do this) can take 8-9 litres as you flush the converter etc VLs have an auto dipstick, its located near the firewall in the engine bay close to the heater hoses. Start the car, put it in neutral with the handbrake on. Dipstick will have a hot (Higher) and cold (lower) reading so when you first start it youll get a lower (Cold) reading when its first started. If you get no reading at all add half a litre of dexronIII fluid and re-check, add fluid until you reach the cold mark on the dipstick. Either drive the car for 10 mins or let it run until the auto heats up, re-check the level which will now come up around the hot level Ok I will take that into account. Im pretty sure the mechanic just used whatever was in this big barrel with pump for the fluid...does it make a difference? And yes after reading some things on the net and on this website...probably need work to the auto as the gear shifts are really weak and kickdown operation isn't very responsive. Im not in the mood to fix the trans to the max just its working so eventually if I wanted to turbo which I cant be bother spending the money yea I can say I saved up and go for it. Fixing this car has become like a bad habbit but it is a hell of a old car witha history. Still fun And thanks mate. It works Im happy wish it had better shifts though. ---------- Post added 27-07-16 at 00:40 ---------- Oh and my car sits on 3k revs when ont he highway if I jump on the highway straightaway. after the car has warmed up, its sort of wealky kicks in the next gear (overdrive?????) and sits at 2k.

also if yoiu got water in a cas or afm or anything else it can make the car run rubbish so make sure its the auto.

Quote: Originally Posted by SIroller [View Post] also if yoiu got water in a cas or afm or anything else it can make the car run rubbish so make sure its the auto. Nah mate no water witht he engine we did put new oil in though. Car still slipping as I do a U-Turn at the lights near my house and when Im on a hill. Transmission fluid is full and has been run in enough it changed colour now. Hopefully after a few weeks driving its fully circulated and it stops. Also we Found I ahd 1 leaking injector and have to wrok out hows the best way to fix it or fix all of them'

You may need to have the bands tightened back to spec. Mine wasnt slipping, but while i had the pan off , there is one in there and a torque wrench is used to tighten to a spec (cant remember it off my head) and then the other one is infront (can access it without removing the pan). After i tightened mine, it was shifting awesome.... Unfortunately, you will need the pan dropped and all that mess to do that. It may not be the issue, but its worth a shot. When you say all gripping, mine sometimes does this weird thing when im slowing down where it will get really klunky as im almost stopped and go klunk, klunk, klunk like its trying to keep going.... see what happens if you have the power button clicked in, or put it in 2 and see if it stops it..... might give more info on whats really going on?

Quote: Originally Posted by Geniee [View Post] You may need to have the bands tightened back to spec. Mine wasnt slipping, but while i had the pan off , there is one in there and a torque wrench is used to tighten to a spec (cant remember it off my head) and then the other one is infront (can access it without removing the pan). After i tightened mine, it was shifting awesome.... Unfortunately, you will need the pan dropped and all that mess to do that. It may not be the issue, but its worth a shot. When you say all gripping, mine sometimes does this weird thing when im slowing down where it will get really klunky as im almost stopped and go klunk, klunk, klunk like its trying to keep going.... see what happens if you have the power button clicked in, or put it in 2 and see if it stops it..... might give more info on whats really going on? Hey bro. For god sake its like one thing to get fixed and something else is broken or another headache. Is it possible for a mechanic to tighten it or do I really have to go to a transmission specialist? when I say gripping I meant I rev it aand its like clutch friction in manual then it just grips and shakes the car and everything but hasnt done it since. Still doing it when I do the u turn near my house and when I leave work. Must still need to be run in possibly really hoping I dont have to do more work to it.