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RB30 Computers, 3TM etc

Started by scottysVL · 15 Dec 2015 · 10 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts. View original archive ↗

scottysVLArchived member
Just wondered if any one can help me out and tell me what the actual differences were between the turbo computers as in manual and auto and the standard computers as in how they fuction as well as the components they house. I pulled a 3TM apart and it had an extra board in it and I wondered if this was the only difference between turbo and non, any help will be great thanks
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GenieeArchived member
The extra board is the knock sensor board. As for the electronics, im not entirely sure, but the turbo ones would have different fuel and ignition maps. I also believe that the auto computers have decelleration fuel maps or somthing, and probably work with the auto ECU under the dash (but thats just a guess). I have both an N/A and Turbo computer, and i am going to nistune one of them, but im not sure if i should get the turbo one done or leave it original and use my N/A one and just not worry about having a knock sensor.
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philbyArchived member
I knew the Turbo Ecu's had two circuit boards, but I never new that the second board did Thanks Geniee
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scottysVLArchived member
Thanks for that, yeh any more info from any one would be greatly appreciated, does any one know who rebuilds standard computers ???
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GenieeArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by philby [View Post] I knew the Turbo Ecu's had two circuit boards, but I never new that the second board did Thanks Geniee Yea, although apparently the knock sensing is quite primative compared to the newer cars, but guess not bad for 86. I ended up getting an R33 knock sensor and then using shielded cable running it back to the ECU and tapping into the plug and grounding the shield on a bolt. It was working good at the start however, every now and again if i do an ecu diagnostic, it will flag up knock codes. not sure if thats to show in its past it has been activated due to real knock, or that its indicating a problem. It can be bypassed with a resister to ground, which might take out some of the false positives, thats why im debating if i should just get my N/A ECU nistuned because i dont really trust the knock sensor anyway and a stock factory turbo eCU would prob be better left as is to on-sell or keep untill they are really rare Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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bachig24uArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Geniee [View Post] Yea, although apparently the knock sensing is quite primative compared to the newer cars, but guess not bad for 86. I ended up getting an R33 knock sensor and then using shielded cable running it back to the ECU and tapping into the plug and grounding the shield on a bolt. It was working good at the start however, every now and again if i do an ecu diagnostic, it will flag up knock codes. not sure if thats to show in its past it has been activated due to real knock, or that its indicating a problem. It can be bypassed with a resister to ground, which might take out some of the false positives, thats why im debating if i should just get my N/A ECU nistuned because i dont really trust the knock sensor anyway and a stock factory turbo eCU would prob be better left as is to on-sell or keep untill they are really rare Lets help clear this up. If you install a bypass resistor of around 470Kohm this won't reduce false positives in knock sensing, it will prevent any false positives when knock sensors is not connected. knock sensing is always after the fact, that means the possibility of damage has passed or damage has/not happened. I would keep the 3TA/M for resale value as it maybe worth more one day. NIStune the NA ECU because when its tuned/calibrated correctly, it is very unlikely to need the primitive knock sensing technology in a turbo ECU. hope this helps Sime Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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scottysVLArchived member
Cheers for that, I'm not really fussed on which ecu I use but the 3tm has some fairly bad burnouts in it and am not sure if it can be repaired but I am looking for somewhere that does repair these if you guys know of anywhere and also I have a few standard ecu's, what roughly do nistune charge to change these to suit turbo if you have any idea thanks heaps for your help Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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bachig24uArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by scottysVL [View Post] Cheers for that, I'm not really fussed on which ecu I use but the 3tm has some fairly bad burnouts in it and am not sure if it can be repaired but I am looking for somewhere that does repair these if you guys know of anywhere and also I have a few standard ecu's, what roughly do nistune charge to change these to suit turbo if you have any idea thanks heaps for your help If you send me the 3TA, 2x NA ECU's that you are 100% the NA's are "good known as working" that can be NIStuned, I'll sort it all out for $420, shipped. in short, send me 1x turbo ECU, 2x NA ones. I'll return 1x turbo ECU, 1x NA ECU that has NIStune installed and programmed to run a turbo injectors. If you only have 1x NA ECU that you know 100% is good, I can still repair the Turbo ECU but the price will be $500. Allow 3 days turn around. I can't do much now until second week of JAN. Let me know when you go ahead so I can get the NIStune board ordered asap. Sime Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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deanoVLCTArchived member
Scotty I might have a spare Na ecu if you only got 1 pal!
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scottysVLArchived member
Awesome cheers buddy,I'm pretty sure I have 2 good na ecu's and my turbo one is a 3tm as I'm running a manual Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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GenieeArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by bachig24u [View Post] Lets help clear this up. If you install a bypass resistor of around 470Kohm this won't reduce false positives in knock sensing, it will prevent any false positives when knock sensors is not connected. knock sensing is always after the fact, that means the possibility of damage has passed or damage has/not happened. I would keep the 3TA/M for resale value as it maybe worth more one day. NIStune the NA ECU because when its tuned/calibrated correctly, it is very unlikely to need the primitive knock sensing technology in a turbo ECU. hope this helps Sime awesome, yea... I also didnt really like the idea of either doing it myself, or sending my turbo ECU off to get done incase it got lost in the mail or i buggered it soldering it in myself. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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