Hello Calais turbo people I have some questions reguarding the Jatco 4n71b's that I was hoping someone here could shed some light on for me. bit of background: I have a Suzuki sierra i've been cutting rust from for what seems like a lifetime. The plan for the suzuki has always been a Nissan CA motor of some kind and an automatic gearbox. I found a Pintara on gumtree for the right money ($350) that had 140,000km on the odo...if you believe that... anyway it'll do me for now. Now the Ca20e is going to fit fine, yes i'm aware it wont be much of an upgrade and a suzuki g16b would have been a much better choice, or a g13bb or whatever there called from a gti...or just about any other motor. But i paid $200 (hence the lifetime of cutting rust) for the sierra, and $350 for a engine and gearbox (and got a free whole car), so the black and white of it is this is where i'm at. Wheelbase is a limitation of these vehicles to say the least, hence my desire to shorten a Jatco as much as possible. According to me and some searching on the internet the 4N71B is roughly 1" longer then the 3N71B as is, but surely this can be shortened. The Pinny has come with a 4N71B, I could probably find a 3N71B and CA bellhousing from a bluebird if I went looking hard enough but i'm lazy and wreckers here charge and arm and a leg, so I haven't got one yet. So starting with what I've got, the 4N71B, the overdrive is held in by bolts that run from the bellhousing through the overdrive, into the main body of the box. Meaning in my mind that the bellhousing will bolt straight to the main box if I was to physically ditch the overdrive. However I see problem with input shaft length if I just try and ditch the overdrive and do nothing else. Question 1: Assuming I can find a 3N71B, can I ditch the overdrive from the 4N and swap the CA20 bellhousing and input shaft from a 3N71B, so I can have essentually a 3 speed shortened 4N71B? I'm thinking not because I think, think there are differences between 3N and 4N shaft thicknesses? Question 2: Assuming the above doesn't work, and again assuming I can find a 3N71B. Can I swap the output from the main body of the 4N71B with the output of the 3N71B giving me a shortened 3N71B with the 4N stumpy output? Question 3: Should I stop being so lazy and make the 4N fit as is? its not like the ca20 or a Ca18 for that matter could make enough power to cause grief to a either gearbox. Also the overdrive would allow me to still maintain sane RPM levels and 4.6 diff gears. Question 4: Can someone confirm the 4N is, 1st 2.458, 2nd 1.458, 3rd 1, 4th 0.686 and R 2.182 and the 3N is the same just without the O/D of course? Question 5: Does someone here sell shift kits? springs and points where to drill I guess. [IMG]http://api.ning.com/files/ZyN7PUxl3D*K-UvFXi17AobWfQ0Bf7fhteX3XqjofdkxCoav*Ltc6a-MnAAkvfvIyKcR*iaPeDfqi2QIQP3vX5sk7EC-V3B-/transautotopL4N71B84Maximagoonand3N71B78620Large.j pg?width=721[/IMG] Picture for reference, 3N in the foreground 4N in the far. You can see the overdrive behind the bellhousing of the 4N and the Stumpy output. You can see the longer output and lack of overdrive on the 3N. I'm not really interested in using a C4, Th400 or really anything other then what i've already got or what could be had for cheap. But If you have a suggestion i'm all eyes and apprehension. Hopefully this wont be the last Sierra i'll own, the next will hopefully be Mazda FE powered with an AW4 box. Many thanks for any input you may have Cary on Calaising JC