I have a gq patrol which I have converted to EfI. It is a rebuilt motor. New afm, tps coolant temp, cas, and all other sensors cleaned throughly. I am running standard compression, just rebored. It's running a vr/vs intank pump. And lastly a torque/gas cam (mild but great for low range 4x4ing). I was advised the cam is good to go with all standard gear. I have set the cam to all of the timing marks and all runs ok. I have played with a few things and wish to advance the timing a little (18deg) Here is my problem I have the distributer fully clockwise to get it to 15deg. If I rotate the dizzy 1 tooth I can only get the timing to 30deg with the distributer fully anti clockwise. There is no way I can get anything between 15 and 30 degrees. What do you guys think. Is it worth advancing the cam 1 tooth. The car is running ok at 15 deg but I have just gone through and played with all the sensors able I noticed fuel consumption creeping up. I would also like a little more go when I stab the throttle. At the moment it's awesome as soon as it reaches about 2700rpm, anything under that is just ok, not great. Thanks all

a few things come to mind on this one. 1. Check the coolant temp sensor wiring has little to no resistance or a resistor along the wiring. (its the 2 pin plug near the top radiator hose snout). any extra resistance in the wiring will cause engine to never move from cold start ignition parameters to warm engine maps. 2. Check the TPS is set correctly as this will often cause the ECU to run on ignition spark map and not idle tables. 3. Only ever check Ignition timing when the engine is warm and if using one of the factory ECU's, that's will take 4 minutes on the dot. so check ignition timing after 4mins. 4. Set Rotor Button to point on or just before number one spark lead post on the Dizzy cap. last if, if all else fails. 5. Check the Camshaft belt is installed at the correct spot. Set engine at TDC and check the step count on the timing belt is 53. Some Service manuals had it at 54 or 52 and this was incorrect. yes you have to remove upper and lower timing belt covers and yes you have to remove the Harmonic balancer to see the Dots and count the steps in the belt.

Thank you sir. I will check the resistance on the cts later today. I did just replace the cts too. These systems are to fussy. In regards to setting the tps I have filtered so many posts on line and have set my tps by resistance so it breaks contact just as the throttle opens. Is this correct? I have also read to set it to 0.5v but I cannot work out this method. I have been searching the wiring looms to ensure everything is correcy. I did find a power too the air regulator missing (the supply that feeds a lot of the sensors) it was connected everywhere except the air reg. Thanks again. Trav ---------- Post added 25-11-14 at 13:51 ---------- Alright. I just threw the multimeter on the coolant temp sensor plug (disconnected the plug) and it's showing 1228ohm resistance (car is dead cold not driven since yesterday) I checked between the cts (black) and afm pin2 and that is .01ohm. Then cts and ecu and there is only a tiny amount of resistance in each of wires. It's only showing resistance when the ecu is plugged in and I connect the multimeter to the end of the cts plug. ---------- Post added 25-11-14 at 17:50 ---------- Alrighty. So the timing concern is still active, but I have further info. I have now replaced all of the relevent plugs in the engine bay so they are all new, clean and secure. The coolant temp sensor is as mentioned in the above post of mine. i have looked at the air regulator and I'm fairly sure it isn't working properly. If I set it with a small opening it starts first turn of the key when cold, but it isn't closing. I will replace that soon. The only other thing I'm having trouble with before I throw the timing light on again is the tps. If I disconnect the plug there is battery voltage on the middle pin but no others. If I plug the tps back it there is 8v at the top and the middle pins. Problem there is it is a brand new tps. I fitted it on Friday night. What do you think.[COLOR="Silver"]

I can't recall where voltage is on the pins from ecu to tps, but out of the 3 on the hard black plastic Bosch style tps connector, 2 will short at idle (middle to top or middle to bottom). and 2 will short at about 3/4 throttle open. as long as the wires buzz out back to the ecu it should be ok. you will notice that if tps is set and unset at idle, the idle speed will usually change. as you have purchased a new one, may as well dismantle it and see how the cam system works in it. you can get away with blocking each end of the air regulator pipe. it won't anything too critical. if you have rebuilt the CAS, check the encoder plate is the correct way around. I've personally never had the experience of putting a CAS together out of phase but just by looking at it, if the plate is reversed then its possible the ignition timing could go out by as much as 180\6= about 30 degrees. else the cam belt moved when you put tension on it. I'd go and revisit that again.

A resistance test is performed the same way you would check continuity (a closed circuit) The wire connecting the ECU to the cts should be 1 ohm or there abouts. The resistance is almost easy to search for using google- and ending your search phrase with "calaisturbo" cts are $25 a pop off eBay any way. I fudged my timing when I changed the belt but got it rite third time around, few issues with who ever set it previously didn't help.

Thanks guys. I have set the tps by resistance, set to break contact just as the throttle opens. I have the car running near on perfect now although idle is a touch low. I'm about to pop outside and ensure the throttle body is completely closed on no throttle. Once I have it running well again I will look at the timing issue. As it sits right now it is at 15 deg but to het that 15 the dizzy is fully clockwise. As I said in the op, I really would like to try and get the base setting near the middle of the dizzy adjustment so I can play with a fee advances to try and get the optimum out of it. It does appear I have managed to get my fuel economy back, but I will have to fill the tank and do a proper test. I guess my next plan of attack is to pull the front off and check the teeth. I am very confident I set it bang on the timing marks with the pulleys and the marks on the belt. But never hurts to check and count I guess.

Well I am unsure what ended up being the cause of the timing problem, but it's all good now. I can get 15 deg base timing well within the slot. So now I can play with a little bit of advance. I had no ecu codes, and all of a sudden (yesterday) the car wouldnt idle so I found by accident that if I unplugged the afm it would idle perfectly. Plugged a new one in today and it's good. So in the hunt to try and work out why my timing was not able to be set correctly I replaced... Cts Air regulator (second hand) Cleaned idle valve AFM (new) Sensor plugs (still have to do tps and cas plugs) Plus I found I was missing power to the air regulator so checked the whole wiring loom and weeded out what I didn't need. Set the base idle and timing and all appears to be well. I think I just had one of those motors that once I replaced one sensor It messed with another one. Not sure what all of these components have in common but something must have been playing with the timing. Will be interesting to see how it goes now as it has been like that for a good year. I was just too last to look into it but since it played up a bit the other week, I thought what better time. Cheers guys.