Hi all I'm having problems with my rb30e. It won't turn on. When you turn the key it keeps kicking and splattering like it wants to start but just won't turn over. I've checked sparks, leads, coil, crank angle senser, air flow meter, changed battery and no difference. Pulled fuel line off and the pump is priming fuel trough when the key is turned. Any ideas on what to try or check now? Thanks.

hey, I noticed you checked for fuel flow, did you check the pressure? A good way to check if it is related to fuel is to spray some throttle body cleaner or start ya ******* (something like that) into the intake as you crank, if it starts you know there will be an issue with the fuel system. apart from that check fuses and injector pulse (you can check the injector pulse by using a noid light or using a led test light across any injector connector and see if it flashes) sounds like a tough one. good luck

mine had the exact same problem or i could get it started for a split second then itd die. It was my fuel regulator. could do as whats stated above and if it works try pulling off your return line and crimping it to see if it builds pressure through the system.

Fuel pressure was fine. It's got spark but it's very very weak. I recently had the crank angle senser changed and when it was done I don't think the metal plate was put back in top dead center and can't that mess with the timing? Is there anyway to check where the right place would be? It was running after changing the CAS but now it just won't kick over. Has brand new platinum tip sparks, new leads, new coil, new dizzy cap, new rotor button and crank angle senser. Thanks guys

not sure what you mean by the metal plate, if you have spark it should be okay. But if in doubt pull it apart and re-do it! also might be a silly one but check you have the leads in the right spots (just incase)

yeah will be your CAS also had the problem with dull spark (tested with noid lights). pulled it out gave it a clean and put it back in and problem was fixed.

There's a little metal plate behind the rotor button and I heard of it doesn't go back In the same place as it was when pulled out it messes up engine timing. Sparks are all in the right spot. When the cas was done I drove it for about 2 k's. Drove fine and parked it for a few days and then it wouldn't start again.

the metal plate shouldn't be too much of an issue however, there is a disk with several holes in it that must be lined up, its located on the shaft with a "D" shape. I'd double check that hasn't moved. apart from that the only things that can cause the weak spark is the rotor button, cap, coil or the power transistor which is the little electronic part under the distributor (bolted onto the bracket)

I would check the crank angle connector mate. Just had an issue with mine. The plug looked fine I never woulda put my money on it being faulty. Rewired a new one and bobs your uncle she fired up first shot.