EDIT: OK, so before anyone reads through all this, i managed to get the car started I DID have my fuel hoses on the correct way, i just needed to allow the rail to fill up, and after watching some vids on how the regulator is there for the return of the fuel and not the supply, I think it all makes sense So... Ive been working on a high comp setup and have it all together using the following. VLT ECU VLT Injectors NA/Intake manifold VLT crossover pipe VLT stock exhaust manifold VLT stock turbo Everything else is NA gear but ive serviced it all replaced bearings etc. (but thats not what im asking advice on). First attempt to start.... It kicks over a fair bit and i get a bit of firing. but not exactly started. I notice that the usual VL priming/fuel system sounds has a hissing (air) to it, and since i replaced the hose between the fuel rail and fuel pressure reg. i started thinking maybe the vaccum line on top, or somthing. I have a play... anyways, same thing... Grrr I then decide ill test and make sure i put the fuel send/return lines back on the right way.... Cop an eye full of petrol LOL, no... i hadnt. I re-confirmed this by sticking the sender into a beer bottle and turned ignition on. Swap those two around. Re-try to start..... nothing... little cough but nothing... I then take the fuel return hose off and stick that in a bottle, (im not sure if its supposed to send fuel back without being started) I dont get anything back. But through all this, my fuel pump is starting to sound different... There was a few times when trying to start it made some ticking sounds... (kinda the same sound as when your battery is flat and it wont kick over) Bare in mind, my battery was charged, but it initially was ticking trying to kick it over so its on the charger which allowed my to more successfully kick it over. Anyways.... Now, my fuel pump isnt ticking, but its kinda whining at me... and i dont get that "waterfall" sound that it usually does as its pumping fuel through the lines... But i would like to have some tests (eg. take this hose off, do that) to confirm. Also, is there any other tests besides just the fuel sender / return hoses in the engine bay that i can do to work out why it wont start? Could it be that by having the fuel send/return hoses on wrong at the first attempt to start it, damaged the pump and is why i don't get the same pressure needed to start it now that they are on right? I guess, I'm kinda wanting to know why it wont start... but also WTF is with the fuel pump sounds ? Thanks in advance. Oh, i have also tested the injectors when i first got them (they were used) by doing the old 12V on a switch with pressurized carby cleaner into the hose tail and they all fired / opened up. The computer.... well, i have no idea how that can be tested but the guy i got it from assured me it was working and its def a VLT computer (as it has the second board and the stickers all over it confirm this) - And you will see from my later edits, it can perform the error diagnostics checks just fine.. ---------- Post added 03-01-14 at 18:20 ---------- I stuck my old computer on, just to see if it would fire up, nothing. I then dumped some fuel down one of the air hoses into the plenum, it fired once, so im sure spark is ok. (to get that fuel out, i used the fuel feed hose into a bottle) - im still not convinced its a bad fuel pump, but i think there is somthing in the regulator area that is playing up. could i bypass the regulator and go from the feed hose to the fuel rail ? ---------- Post added 03-01-14 at 18:23 ---------- An error code check on the VLT ECU coughed up the following codes. 14 - (my old ECU also said this (even after driving above 10km/h) but it didnt effect my old setup - i will look into this in the future - speed sensor - however my overdrive works fine). 23 - throttle switch circuit - Prob coz i didnt press the pedal in. - CLEARED 32 - starter signal circuit - VERY interesting.... - CLEARED (by attempting to start for 2 seconds) 34 - Knock - Understandable - as i havnt wired anything in yet. I might just let the battery charge up heaps, coz its borderline starter motor / clickey sound. ---------- Post added 03-01-14 at 20:34 ---------- So i ran the car, its now starting fine, very rough idle tho. I got it idling in a state so i could put some coolant in it and bleed it. I then adjusted the idle a bit on the AAC valve. It sounds like its missing, i know that on my N/A setup I had the AFM tuned up (so that the lights inside on the ECU were matching showing a nice mixture) so i unwound that back to what it was when i first opened it (i remembered how many turns i used). Still rough. I remember i had advanced my timing to 17deg. so got the timing light out and set it to 15. Still yuk. So i thought maybe injectors, i did the ear test with a screwdriver and they are all firing. HOWEVER, before i did the ear test, i started pulling them off, to see if the idle changed and Cylinder #3 the idle didnt change. Leading me to think it was playing up, however the ear test showed it firing. I know that might not be conclusive, but it might be blocked? which will be a pain in the a$$ to get at. (i dont wanna have to take the rail out again). Oh, i also (when had the timing light out) stuck it on each of the leads to see if each was firing at least. (which they were). - i also have new plugs, and they were fine before so i doubt its anything to do with them. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

one thing I did when I changed injectors was broke an injector seal while putting brown tops in, it would start but ran real rough and wouldn't idle, maybe spray some brake clean around injectors to see it idle picks up?

Oh, this morning i went and had another look, and removed each of the injector plugs one at a time to see which wouldnt effect idle. It seems #3 and #5 both made no difference to the idle. (which explains why it sounds like a tractor) So ive split the plenum, pulled out the fuel rail, and have a guy coming over tomorrow to give them a service/clean. He did say that the rubber "O ring" on the bottom isnt actually an o-ring but more a seal for the injector. When i got these 2nd hand VLT ones, they were loose in the pack, and removing my NA ones they stayed in the head, and i just poped them onto the new VLT ones.. so there may be also some benefit in him servicing the VLT ones and sealing them properly. While its apart again, im taking the chance to replace some of those vacuum hoses that run to the top of the regulator and the other one that runs to the top of the plenum. I want to replace the water hoses but repco couldnt help me as its so hard to find. Anyone have any suggestions on the codes? im talking the ones that send water through the top of the plenum. (mine arnt cracked but are showing wear, and its a good chance to change them). Im not changing the charcoal canister to plenum hose as i looked close and it looks like its re-inforced (prob to take the heat from running so close to the engine) and all i have is vacuum hose so dont wanna risk that.

You can buy the seals for the injectors new from Nissan, always a good idea to chuck a set in. Same in the N/A plenum, so R31 Injector stuff.

ok, so its all up and running now... went for a nice little boost around the streets. Here were some things i did wrong... I cant believe how stupid i was... I got the injectors cleaned/serviced this morning, which (i now dont think i needed to do, but they were pretty scummy and the spray patterns were pretty average before, now i know they are good (i watched the guy)). He also wasnt 100% sure they were VLT injectors as they were aftermarket ones... (i bought them 2nd hand on here). Anyways, i went and got one of my NA ones and we did a flow comparison between the two... and they def. flow much more, so that kind of put that to bed (and gave me peice of mind). He pop'd new seals on them, did all the cleaning crap etc. I go and install the fuel rail and all the rest of the plunum (took me all day again). Then i get to spark leads.... my forward three were ready to go, i just have a double check on the dist cap. WTF? #3 is in the #5 spot.... #5 is in the #3 spot.... That explains everytging... no wonder i thought i had #3 and #5 bad injectors, of course they would be clicking when running, and pulling the elect. plug off wouldnt effect idle.. coz the spark wasnt going at the right time. Its also funny coz i used a timing light over all leads to see if they were all producing current, and that checked out. Guess my carelessness managed to slip a unique problem through the cracks... Anyways, it starts up perfect... nicely humming away... I bleed it... all good. Attempt to "tune" it using the computer and the AFM screw... I believe i have it pretty rich at the moment... I was following a guide on here, 1 question tho, If the red is on constant, and the green flashing.... do you guys read that as "red is flashing more" or "green is flashing more" becuase i was kinda in two minds on that.... my ****ty A/F radio gauge was showing pretty rich when the red was on solid. (anwyasy ill prob end up getting it dyno'd just to make sure its all nice before i go hammering it around.) Boost gauge shows no more than about 6psi, (im just using standard wastegate and stock boost at the momemtn) - prob should stay that way too considering the compression. after my little up the street and back, i notice after boosting, if you get off the throttle is stalls, now... im not in my "final" setup, as i am still waiting on a 90deg. silicone to go from the intake pipe to the air filter box, so theres a very high chance i have many air leaks around that area... so im not too worried about that at the moment... a proper tune should also weed that out. I did however, blow my turbo oil return hose off (as i had to cut it back a bit, i lost the little flared end that the clamp secure's to, so it just slipped off.... (i do have it clamped). But thats not too much of a deal, i didnt drive it long and there is still plenty of oil in there, and i have a 10AN braided line oil return kit im going to put on once my 10AN-3/4BSP plug arrives (ebay). I also have to visit the exhaust shop as attaching my CAT to the front pipe has pulled the whole system over to the left a bit, and i cant get the rubbers on to pull the muffler in line, and one is resting on the sway bar linkage.. (the exhaust is not able to be pulled apart and bent myself as i believe the rear has been replaced (its all welded up and i cant get it out without cutting). So yea, quite a long thread of my ranting... but guess i got there in the end, and fundimentally, there was nothing wrong but my own doing... Oh, 1 other question.... the charcoal canister.... does the top (smaller) hose connect to the throttle body or the plenum? There are 2x hoses off the charcoal can. and at the moment, ihave the smaller (top) one running to just under the TB. and the larger one from the (lower can lid) running to the plenum.

Its also worth mentioning that the N/A heat shield does not fit over the turbo and intake pipe. But a little cutting with the angle grinder has it on there nicely. not sure about the bracket for the O2 sensor, its currently hanging, but i might be able to bend it and mount it on the N/A heat shield with a rivet or something.

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=83789

Quote: Originally Posted by HTURBO [View Post] http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=83789 Wow, thanks for that buddy. thats exactly what i was after.