Hey guys, Me and my brother are in the process of building ourselves a drag car of sorts with the intention of pulling a sly one on our uncle and his 350 chev drag car. We've got very little experiance in the drag racing feild and plan to build up some experience away from town in an effort to pull the wool over his eyes. Unfortunantly we really need to beat him on our first race together, as i can be sure he wont let it happen again. At the moment the build specs are as follows. R31 Pintara, stripped as much as we can. Still has sound deadening, carpet, and 2 speakers for a basic radio. The dash has been removed and replaced with tin. Drivers and passengers seats are factory items and weigh plenty but our budget is tight. The suspension is factory, the diff has 4.11 diff ratios and a mini spool. We plan on running some sort of drag racing slick with 'octopus grip tyre softener' not sure what brand of tyre or pressure would be ideal. Engine specs: Rb30 bottom end, Rb25 VCT head, 10.5:1 compression ratio (internally standard components from RB25DE) 875cc fuel injectors Freedy intake plenum Monster fuel pump and fuel cell mounted in boot Standard rb25 turbo manifold GT3582r turbocharger, 1.06 rear housing Custom dump, exhaust not made yet, thinking side pipe. Nitrous Oxcide Wet single fogger system, not tuned yet what HP do you recommend? 2.5" intercooler piping 600x300x?? intercooler (hybrid) standard rb25 throttle body Coil packs havnt been chosen yet, thinking ls1 coil packs? Twin plate OS giken clutch + lightened flywheel R33 5 speed manual, short shifter At a guess id say my uncles car is more than capable of running a 10 second 1/4. What should i be doing to ensure i have equal chance? Im aware ill require a cams license and roll cage to run quicker than an 11 Helps appreciated guys ill upload pics of the build in a minute

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Be good to see how you go, been trying to con a mate into doing same probally wont need gas, better to save that for later, it will make the learning/driving process probally slower. 4.11's will probally be to short you'll need fancy fuel for 10.5 comp, so C16 or E85 if you go E85..you'll need bigger injectors.. and lots of practice..practise is king with manual, auto is easy..lol good luck! cheers darren

I was planning to use E85 fuel I actually thought the injectors would be good for 400rwkw pushing much more ive been warned my rods will require upgrading. As for clutches ive got a OS Giken twin plate button that I need to get rebuilt but in the meantime im using a 10" Excedy HD cushion button clutch, I know im asking the length of a piece of string here but if im gentle coming off the line is it likely to hold the power once ive got the foot to the floor. Anyone selling a tailshaft for a R33 gearbox in a R31? And one more question, LS1 coil packs, are they any good? ive had issues igniting the fuel at 20+psi when I was using 8.3:1 comp with the standard coil packs. Im not a fan of the splitfire price tag.

LS coils are very popular, id say nearly the most popular replacement coilpack? I have had great success using them for the past couple of years.

^yep definitly, just have to look at overseas forums over various different platforms to see they have taken off in a big way cheers darren

ls1 coils r awesome , the rods can handle abit if rebuilding , use sr20 rod bolts or arp , comp u will pushing it , u will need e85 with that comp , use mls head gasket n arp head studs , wade regrind cams , piss those cheap fittings off n use dash -8 fittings n 1/2 fuel line n upgrade 2 minimum 1000cc injectors

Seems like a mismatch of parts. Comp ratio too high to use anything much less than ethanol/meth based fuel, yet injectors too small. No2 won't be needed to spool a turbo that size on that engine - be better off with a 2step, your turbo can make good power on ethanol but your stock rods may not, and going manual is not a very efficent way of going fast on a strip compared to an auto on the same setup.