Hey guys, I just did a oil flush/filter on my auto and while under there i loosened off the locking nut, adjusted the front and rear bands (8mm socket) to 13.5Nm, then backed off 2x full turns. (This was what my filter kit had on the paper that came with it). Ive put oil back in, (only 5Lt of ATF Dex.3 at this stage because i wanted to see how it was when it warmed up - check levels etc.) Driving off the ramps, i noticed it was very sluggish, i mean i'd have to give it some just to go back... then a little forward/backwards action through the gears, and it almost feels like i have the handbrake still on. While i was doing this i also replaced both uni joints on the tailshaft and the centre bearing but all that was quite smooth and was moving nicely when i re-installed it. Could it be that the bands are adjusted too tight on the auto? I was using a torque wrench that started at 28Nm, so i zero'd on that, then wound back untill i was on 13.5Nm. (unfortunately i couldnt confirm this was exact, i was just using the numbers and lessing as the handle was passing the numbers on the spinning part). I know there is the front adjustment point which i could access without removing the pan again, is it worth loosening that one off to confirm that this is the problem? (Is the front one for the reverse? or its just another part of the forward gears?) Can i also have confirmation that 13.5Nm is correct? I have since looked in a manual and found they say 10Nm -2x turns (front) and 15Nm -3x turns (back) Would that slight difference make this much difference? I haven't even driven it yet to see if it will free up, but it defiantly doesn't feel right. It was perfect before, i should have just left it, but seen as im going to be high-comp turbo'ing it soon, i thought i would take the opportunity while the pan was off to get them back to spec. Edit-- I just had a thought, i could go for a drive around the block, and stick it in N to see if it rolls ok, that will rule out the tailshaft work from binding wouldnt it? The auto should free-spin when in N and kinda confirm its that wouldnt it? ---------- Post added 12-11-13 at 21:46 ---------- ok, i had a look at my torque wrench, and i think i know what i did wrong I would still love for someone to confirm the above makes sense tho Because my torque wrench starts at 28Nm, and by rotating the handle counter-clockwise, it loosens off (heading towards the 13.5) I mistakenly took off 10Nm then counted (i have NFI why i did that) .... looking at it now, starting on the 28Nm and 0Nm (handle) i just counted backwards 1Nm each time and i believe its wound down much lower than when i did the bands. I think ill attack the front adjuster tomorrow night, can anyone give me a heads up if i will dump oil just removing the front cover (the one with 3 bolts and the little dome shaped cap - I know it came with a gasket, but because i have barely ran it, im hoping not much oil has gotten into that part.) And can someone tell me which adjuster is for which set of gears? And finally, if i was to drain the oil using the removal of hose from trans cooler, which one should i remove and stick in a bottle to make the pan removal much cleaner? Thanks Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

FYI, i got this sorted now. I bought a torque wrench that ranged from 2Nm-25Nm Took the pan off again, tried to catch all the fluid and filter it a few times through sieves. Loosened the lock nut, set the front band to 10Nm -2x turns and the back one to 15Nm-3x turns. Drives amazingly, gears are so smooth and responsive but i think the key maintenance was all the tailshaft work i did. Its so smooth with no clunks or anything when you get off the throttle, and has made the car feel so much tighter overall.