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Having a problem with my head trying to divorce the block now that I've started pushing the engine.
Ive got arp head studs and a cometic mls head gasket. Just wondering what other people have done to fix it if you've encountered it. Planning on new head studs, new head gasket, plane the head and check the block deck as a start.
any suggestions are welcome
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Most times it's the tune that causes these sort of issues, think out side the square, bigger head studs etc isn't normally the answer
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what ftp have you got the head studs at? i have 37psi in mine now with 120ftp on each head stud.
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running 35psi in the tyres
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Had no timing in it evl. Got 112nm on the studs grunter which is what arp recommend. Over tightening would cause them to stretch and not actually clamp tighter wouldn't it??
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i have 13mm head studs so i dont have a problem running higher torque. But i know alot of cars running same 120 as me and never had an issue but also know people with 90 and no issue also????? how do you know the head is lifting? is it pushing out water?
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It was pumping water out after each pull on the dyno as soon as we turned the boost up. So I put a pressure gauge in the cooling system to check.
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I agree with evlrb30 to an extent.
The only time I've lifted a head is when an injector has fails. I did a few things as precautions really.. 1/2inch studs @ 110ftlb, oringed the block and a Jpc girdle. Ran 37pound with the 7175 with 11mm studs @ 90 ftlb and a commetic gasket, it lifted the head when an id2000 failed.
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it isnt always the tune but most of the time is cant be. Mine pushed the head up on maatouks dyno and pressed out water each run, i took it home and re-torqued the head down and was fine up to 37psi and climbing. There was nothing wrong with the tune that was in it i just needed to redo the studs.
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30-09-13, 14:38 GMT+10#10 Are you pulling the threads up on yours Kirk? It was always an old trick to give it a few more ft/lbs but you ran the risk of damaging the thread.
Seeing as you have gone to 13mm I take it, you drilled and tapped them out. Did you helicoil the block or just retap the threads?
What plug temp are you guys running?
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30-09-13, 15:17 GMT+10#11 i found with mine that i had to run 2 washers on those arp head studs.
not sure whether it was a **** batch of studs. but the nuts bottomed out on the shank of stud, before the gasket had 100% crush.
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30-09-13, 16:50 GMT+10#12 Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke57TT
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Are you pulling the threads up on yours Kirk? It was always an old trick to give it a few more ft/lbs but you ran the risk of damaging the thread.
Seeing as you have gone to 13mm I take it, you drilled and tapped them out. Did you helicoil the block or just retap the threads?
What plug temp are you guys running?
i have always had 12mm head studs since owning it but now with the new rebuild i have gone 13mm. I dont know how the new ones are done as i mate builds my engines and he just does what he wants for r&d and i fit it in the car. Hopefully new combo will make near the 1000rwhp threw the glide so the studs will be getting a work out...
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30-09-13, 18:16 GMT+10#13 Ive got 33-35 psi in it with the 7675. Ill check the tension on the studs again before I pull it down. A couple of others have said to mirror finish the deck and head, cosworth mls gasket and 13mm studs. I had the injectors flow tested not so long ago but it might be worth checking again? Its one thing after another with this engine! Would the cometic gasket be ****ed now that its lifted?
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30-09-13, 20:18 GMT+10#14 Yeah def get the injectors cleaned/checked, I've been doing that basically every time I use the car. Yeah you will need to replace the gasket.
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01-10-13, 08:32 GMT+10#15 I would replace the gasket but mine lifted and all I did was redo the head studs tighter and then never had an issue.
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01-10-13, 15:28 GMT+10#16 Quote:
Originally Posted by vltnitron
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i found with mine that i had to run 2 washers on those arp head studs.
not sure whether it was a **** batch of studs. but the nuts bottomed out on the shank of stud, before the gasket had 100% crush.
I had a set of studs like that all I had to was get a m11 bottoming tap because the threads didn't go all the way down on my first block which I hurt then got a new block Nissan where kind enough on that block the threads where all the way down so didn't need to retap that block studs screwed down far enough that the nuts only have around 3-4threads exposed
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01-10-13, 16:46 GMT+10#17 glad im not the only one that had this problem caged. it was easier for me at the time to drop another oem washer on.
My tuner said he doesnt like them cometic head gaskets, said he's had a few leak when running big boost.
Myself i use a tomie rb26 steel gasket and havent had a problem. running 36-38psi
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01-10-13, 17:57 GMT+10#18 I had the same problem when I first fitted the studs. But when the donk was rebuilt they cleaned all the gunk and stuff out of the threads like caged has. Seriously tossing up going to a dohc head now if it doesn't come right with a new gasket and a bit tighter..
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01-10-13, 18:58 GMT+10#19 can you get stronger 11mm studs ???
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01-10-13, 19:17 GMT+10#20 Quote:
Originally Posted by 86SLVLT
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I had the same problem when I first fitted the studs. But when the donk was rebuilt they cleaned all the gunk and stuff out of the threads like caged has. Seriously tossing up going to a dohc head now if it doesn't come right with a new gasket and a bit tighter..
just buy my complete car lol
---------- Post added 01-10-13 at 19:18 ----------
Quote:
Originally Posted by GM-087
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can you get stronger 11mm studs ???
yes i run 13mm
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