Located in Berwick, Vic Blowing black smoke, doesn't seem to be AFM now completely clueless, Mobile Mechanic has no clue just about ready to take it to Holden after Financing everything I own lol

would you sell?

did you change the cas? or could be temp sensors rooted and richining it up hence the black smoke

Quote: Originally Posted by INFLYTmelb [View Post] would you sell? lol you kidding, she's running like crap atm haha ---------- Post added 04-04-13 at 13:27 ---------- Quote: Originally Posted by 12maneym [View Post] did you change the cas? or could be temp sensors rooted and richining it up hence the black smoke would it even turn over if it was the cas? it's either gotta be that or the reg

Quote: Originally Posted by MizTigaVT [View Post] Located in Berwick, Vic Blowing black smoke, doesn't seem to be AFM now completely clueless, Mobile Mechanic has no clue just about ready to take it to Holden after Financing everything I own lol Can you explain abit more. Does it start? Does it idle? Does it idle high or low? Does it turn over quickly? Did it all of a sudden start blowing smoke? Have you done a diagnostic check on the ecu?

take it to a mechanic?

scrap the mobile mechanic like in my previous post take it to an rb30 or nissan specialist. you won't regret it.

Yeah some more symptoms would be ideal. It's tough enough to diagnose when it's right in front of you. Air leaks, bad fuel, clogged filter, CAS is always a big go too, even the plug on top of the CAS is worth a wriggle while it's idling. Distributor points/rotor. What do the plugs look like in each cylinder, have you looked at fault codes etc etc etc. And yeah, as above - maybe it's time to just take it to a mechanic, it may cost a chunk, but it may also cost a chunk if you keep replacing all the wrong things.

i'll try the fault codes, i've replaced the ECU due to water damage, it starts fine, runs fine for about 2 minutes, holds revs if i pump the accelorator but put it in reverse or drive and it shakes and cuts out, i've changed all the plugs and leads, they have fouled up again pretty quick, it's blowing black smoke as soon as i keep the revs up, i can't actually drive it to the Mechanic and the last mobile mechanic diagnosed faulty AFM, replaced it and it's still rough as hell, could be bad fuel as I'd just filled up a couple of hours before this had happened but have used this servo before? i've pulled off the vacuum hose and no fuel seems to be leaking out, both external and internal pumps are working fine, if anything the internal is overworking as it is contantly turning over, it's pumping to much fuel, just where is it pumping to? injectors are pulsing fine, i've checked all the wiring in the car, it seems fine?

You used a new afm correct? Try a old working one!

Unplug the AFM & see if it runs any different. If it does run different I'd say your AFM is working.

I'd have a stab in the dark and say oxygen sensor maybe?

Quote: Originally Posted by INFLYTmelb [View Post] would you sell? I can imagine you buy it and find what the problem is right away.

Quote: Originally Posted by MizTigaVT [View Post] i'll try the fault codes, i've replaced the ECU due to water damage, it starts fine, runs fine for about 2 minutes, holds revs if i pump the accelorator but put it in reverse or drive and it shakes and cuts out, i've changed all the plugs and leads, they have fouled up again pretty quick, it's blowing black smoke as soon as i keep the revs up, i can't actually drive it to the Mechanic and the last mobile mechanic diagnosed faulty AFM, replaced it and it's still rough as hell, could be bad fuel as I'd just filled up a couple of hours before this had happened but have used this servo before? i've pulled off the vacuum hose and no fuel seems to be leaking out, both external and internal pumps are working fine, if anything the internal is overworking as it is contantly turning over, it's pumping to much fuel, just where is it pumping to? injectors are pulsing fine, i've checked all the wiring in the car, it seems fine? you could be making matters confusing. every single time you crank the engine, a pre-determined squirt of fuel goes in the ports. after anything more than 3 goes at it can easily drench the spark plugs. if the MAF or AFM as you call it may have been faulty, best clean the plugs again and dry them out before trying to start it. if the engine runs at all, it can be rough depending on how many plugs are fouled with incompletely burnt fuel. if the engine doesn't start within 5 seconds or show any signs of kicking and popping etc. best stop cranking, leave it for 10 minutes or so and allow the fuel in the cylinders and ports to evaporate. Next, disconnect the Oxygen sensor, VL's don't actually need it to run and I don't recall it throwing a DTC either so don't worry. (just ensure the loose wires can't burn on the exhaust somewhere). another thing, the oxgen sensor comes in to play at around 50degC so it won't stop a bone cold engine starting but it may cause issues after 2 minutes when it has started to get towards the Closed Loop feed back temp of 50degC when the ECU starts to use it for fuel mixture correction. unplug the MAF and ensure that pins 1 & 6 measure between 300 - 500 ohms in resistance with a test meter - preferable 382ohms. (digital or analogue meter is fine) you are actually measuring an adjustment moulded inside the MAF housing. Another thing to check or replace or even bypass is the cranking fuel pressure vaccum restrictor solenoid valve or the solenoid with two ports on it that is bolted to the intake manifold near the underside. it has a vacuum line going out to the fuel pressure regulator and another line in from the intake manifold. Best to bypass this by connecting the Fuel Pressure Regulator directly to the intake manifold. This little solenoid valve can destroy ecu's and increase fuel pressure by 8psi + or so causing idle problems. leave it unplugged. After checking these things, reconnect MAF plug, disconnect the battery, clean spark plugs or replace the spark plugs depending on how wet or black they are, reconnect battery (should have taken over ten minutes to check plugs). try and start the engine and let us know how you go.

i'm not gonna lie, that's going straight over my head maybe i need to tow it to a mechanic... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

yep take it to a mechanic that knows rb30's. don;'t be messing around with clowns from ultratune who once had a cousin that had bt1 that ran 10's at calder. too many dreamers in the vl scene. take it to a pro and you will get a cheaper answer in the long run.

hahahaha awesome ok thanks

Quote: Originally Posted by MizTigaVT [View Post] i'm not gonna lie, that's going straight over my head maybe i need to tow it to a mechanic... May be we can send you some pictures on the parts. the electrical testing is as easy as. if you have the time most of us could probably help explain step by step. how urgent is it? daily driver? I can help over the phone if that helps. otherwise a flight ticket and i'll make it a day trip. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

haha it is a daily driver and has now been garaged for 4 weeks and 800 bucks in the red any help with some pics would be greatly appreciated! just tried to do a fault code test and got 25 lol... don't seem to be doing that right either! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Ok just got two codes 13 and 24, do either of them relate to the black smoke