gettin over 210 F when i give it a kaning on the track.. yet runs at 170 F all day while idling...burnout king radiator with twin thermos, running below 40 coolant, timing is right and not running lean. had a 160 thermostat now tryed a thermostat with the guts taken out of it still the same issue. any ideas ?

= all standard: thermostat, radiator , viscous fan and shroud work best thermos aren't as good and yours may be set up to flow the wrong way thermostat is needed to allow water to cool properly

water pump may be going too fast too allow the coolant to cool through the radiator properly or cavitating so possibly try a bigger pully, may have to go to a gilmer drive to achieve this if you havent already

fans are going the correct way , they are 1000 cfm each , , yeh i do have gilmers on it now,which are the big ones , also got told that my bottom hose doesnt have the spring inside and that at high revs that hose could be strinking therefore restricting flow ? not sure how tru that story is?

Put a stock t /stat in it, lower temp ones and ESP gutted ones actually make it run worse. Don't need springs in ur hoses either.

http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/

Put a 180 thermostat in it.

As aus880 said piss the thermos off and ya super dooper radiator and get a new factory one and stock clutch fan and shroud.... Mate when it comes to Cooling the factory stuff works best... In most cases simple is better..... I had twin thermos and alloy radiator on my vlt.... It's all in the bin now and went back to stock, car is so much better now

Factory stuff is alright, but if you have a hypo V8 then it's junk and won't keep up. Make sure you have a radiator shroud. The thing is with a worked V8 they get super hot, not like a stock engine and not like a 6 cylinder turbo... high comp V8's heat the whole car up. I wouldn't be too worried that it gets to 210 on the track when you're thrashing it, I used to get mine to 220 but it would come back down when you get some airflow through it. Most of the time you're in to it hard and then going slow and there's no air getting through it. I had twin AU fans on mine which flowed around 2000cfm and it would actually bring the temp down from 210 to 190 but even if it can just hold the temp instead of letting it creep up and once you get moving again the temp comes down then that's fine. 212F is boiling but with a good cap you could go a bit higher... but I don't think your car has a major issue unless it just keeps climbing and you can't get it back down.

Wouldn't be worried about 210. Boiling is a lot more than that under pressure.

horsepower makes heat. Make sure air has no where to go other than brakes, radiator and intake cold airbox. 220f is only 104C.. nothing really. Make sure the thermos aren't an airflow restriction at high speed. coolant is elevating the boiling point of the water Fluid - Freezing Point - Boiling Point •Pure Water: 0 C / 32 F - 100 C / 212 F •50/50 mix of (coolant)C2H6O2/Water: -37 C / -35 F - 106 C / 223 F •70/30 mix of (coolant)C2H6O2/Water: -55 C / -67 F - 113 C / 235 F (stolen from wiki http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system3.htm) any other cars out there with setup like yours and run different? I'm seeing 92C in a VLT that is only making modest 280HP.

Telling ya now it will be the t/stat. Thermos are fine. U don't had to revert to stock fan etc. make sure they aren't cheap crappy ones and that its properly shrouded.

cheers guys havent actually kept going to see if it will go higher or not, i will see what it does , thinkin on puttin it on methnol anyways

Fix your initial problem before u mask it.

If he intends on running methanol he's never going to have a cooling issue though... so why bother fixing something that's not related to the direction you're going.

Cause masking a problem is the dodgy way to do something.....

lol