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CAS probs - crank trigger conversion - anybody?

Started by vlturbobo · 8 Nov 2012 · 24 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo (partial recovery). Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts. View original archive ↗

vlturboboArchived member
Just wanting as much info as possible on this. Heard from someone havinf probs with highly modified vl rb30's at high rpm (over 5000 rpm) missing on the dyno and killing crank angle sensors. He said he converted to a crank trigger setup and problem solved. Has anybody else had similar issues to this? Thanks for input in advance.
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PSI086Archived member
$60 Honeywell GT101 sensor and 3 10mmx10mm slots in the balancer 120deg apart and not a single drama anymore Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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TurismoArchived member
Thats amazing any more information on this PSI086? Do you make them your self? it beats buying new crankangle sensors
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vlturboboArchived member
Id like to know more too. Where do these slots go exactly (starting point) and are they cut out of the balancer? The plug on the sensor, does it connect to the existing plug on the loom where the cas plugs ibto? Thanks for the info
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Big LeeArchived member
bump for much more detailed info immediately or GTFO!!!!!! )) Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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vlturboboArchived member
Was that a factory balancer u can apply this to? Cheers
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TheChadArchived member
there are less dodgey solutions that don't require changing the moment of inertia of a fairly integral part... off the shelf trigger sensors that fit to the front of balancers for instance??
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PSI086Archived member
How is that dodgy? You are taking exactly the same amount at identical intervals. The set up was suggested to me by an ecu company. Better than forking out 2k for something which does exactly the same thing... Anyway you can set up any balancer that way. The slots need to be done in a indexing head in a mill. The first slot goes wherever your sensor is situated. Doesn't matter where it goes in relation to the balancer, as long as the engine is at about 5deg btdc when you set it up. The sensor plugs into the factory cas loom. You would need an aftermarket ecu to control it though. The factory cas needs to be retained for the sync signal if you are running multiple coils
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Big LeeArchived member
Technical article?? More questions than answers here guys. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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TurismoArchived member
"Better than forking out 2k for something which does exactly the same thing..." A-Men PSI086 All we need now is some info on this item or to clarify the basic principles. Any offers ?
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vlturboboArchived member
I agree. More detailed info step by step so it can help us all to avoid the dreaded CAS problems.
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RB2GOArchived member
This is no fixed way to go about it. Most ECU's want different things and thats a big factor in how you set it up. Think of it like this, all your doing is removing the cylinder pulse wire from the factory CAS, your then hooking that same wire up to a sensor (Honeywell GT101 gear tooth sensor is best) which is picking up the cylinder pulses directly from the crank either via a crank trigger wheel or something like PSI-086 has done. The amount of teeth or notches, the lead angle etc are all ecu dependant. Same goes with the way your crank trigger mounts, everyones setup is going to be a bit different depending on brand of balancer etc The TDC number 1 cam zero will still function through the factory CAS You will have to change the sensor type setup in your ecu. Thats about all there is to it
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sherman89Archived member
Here is a few pics of my new setup. Available off shelf from a shop in brisbane! Not suitable for stock balancer, suits ATI, Romac and Ross. Simple install, nice/neat and pretty cheap! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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PSI086Archived member
I like that set up ^^ Did you need to machine the trigger disc thickness off the snout on back of the balancer to allow the pulleys to line up again?
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sherman89Archived member
No machining was done to make up for that. The thickness of the disk compared to the 2nd little plate that 'retains' the timing beltis very close to the same. Running without it i dont see it being a problem (hopefully). Only real worryis the timing belt catching one of the teeth and breaking, but once tensioned i highly doubt it will be possible.
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WHITER33Archived member
Price....?
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Jet R31Archived member
what shop? , i need/want one..that kit looks exactly like what i am after cheers darren
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[T]MattyArchived member
they still need and use the stock CAS as a ref yeah?
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sherman89Archived member
Yeah thats right matty! Im not 100% on the price, Give John Desond a call on [phone removed] in business hours!
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[T]MattyArchived member
So your not really overcoming the fact that the stock CAS can be very temperamental, your just getting over the timing jitter caused from the belt wobble?
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