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What Future Setup. JAK-094

Started by Jako-25 · 25 Sept 2012 · 19 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts. View original archive ↗

Jako-25Archived member
Hey guys I'm in need of important help. I own a mint Calais N/A. And looking at converting it. Now I'm not a cheap c*nt. I need some advice on where to start and your recommendation. I have $10,000 Ready to go into the motor and drive-line. Which is a good starting point because the car will be off the road for many years as i want to do everything right the first time, and have it done properly. I'm basically asking if you could do your rebuild all over again, what would of you have changed. I'm aiming for a sleeper look, with a hidden Cooler and no holes cut. Gtech style. So whats turbo ? Pistons Rods Cam Computer Injectors Manifold ( hot and cold ) Will go 33 box will have to go VLT diff Probably forgot a heap but i want to learn more and i need to. Aiming for around 300+rwkw. Heres the car. Hope you guys can help please. Cheers Jackson Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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FLY-03LArchived member
http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=105915
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86SLVLTArchived member
Have u considered buying a car already done but dropping the running gear into your shell? Then flog the other car off with the running gear out of yours.
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Jako-25Archived member
Thats a good idea, but if i do a build from the start i know whats in it, and whats been done plus the condition. Other running gear may look pretty, but could be f*cked. Or the opposite, might be mint.
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HTURBOArchived member
First thing. Is it a series 2 engine??
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PSI086Archived member
If it was my car this is what I'd be going with. 300rwkw will be a walk in the park Turbo - GT35 with .82 rear or Precision 6262 Pistons + Rods - Spool/CP combo Cam - Wade 818b or equivalent Computer - Either Haltech PS1000/2000, Link or Vipec or EMS6860 with individual LS1/2 coils and a basic crank trigger set up Injectors - Siemens 80lb or ID1000's Manifold ( hot and cold ) - ETM or 6boost highmount and any reputable inlet manifold such a Rajab, CPC, JPC, etc
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PROGMHArchived member
Leave the engine stock. Get a 35/40, injectors and microtech, intercooler. Boost it up to 20-24psi and enjoy 300rwkw.
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SteffArchived member
I thought your car already had a set up? Your turbo badge told me that...
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FLY-03LArchived member
Put 2000-2500 aside for a R33 complete gearbox setup
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SQU33CArchived member
i know someone selling a complete r33 box setup pm me for details
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Jako-25Archived member
Car doesn't have a turbo badge. Anymore.. And yeah its a s2, ( Has the oil lines ) ---------- Post added 27-09-12 at 23:17 ---------- Quote: Originally Posted by PSI086 [View Post] If it was my car this is what I'd be going with. 300rwkw will be a walk in the park Turbo - GT35 with .82 rear or Precision 6262 Pistons + Rods - Spool/CP combo Cam - Wade 818b or equivalent Computer - Either Haltech PS1000/2000, Link or Vipec or EMS6860 with individual LS1/2 coils and a basic crank trigger set up Injectors - Siemens 80lb or ID1000's Manifold ( hot and cold ) - ETM or 6boost highmount and any reputable inlet manifold such a Rajab, CPC, JPC, etc Thants a good start, would i need to flow the head ? WB Gaskets ? 3" turbo back ?
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VLT222Archived member
From what Ive read and from what I know Id say this would hit the 300kw mark. Microtech lt10 or equivalent to run the setup GT 35/40 1.06 rear probably at 20-25psi 50mm Turbosmart Wastegate ACL pistons or equivalent Billet rods 870cc injectors 6boost exhaust manifold or equivalent Rajab spec or equivalent inlet manifold MSD ignition Full 3'' exhaust from dump Cometic head gasket for reliability Stronge LSD for street use, so maybe something like a Kaaz with 3.7's maybe Most of this could be discussed with an engine builder anyway, but I guess its good to have an idea. Anyway thats just my 2 cents for a setup..
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PROGMHArchived member
I seriously wouldn't bother building a motor for that kind of power. If you miraculously pop it, throw another ****ter in. If you end up chasing huge power, build it. There's no need for aftermarket pistons, rods, manifolds etc. Unless you wish to drain your bank account.
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aus880Archived member
I'm with Brett, why suggest throwing up to $10K towards an engine and why take the car Quote: off the road for many years ??????????????????????? the whole idea seems absurd to me, too much money and not enough worthwhile things to do in your life imho
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AVG45Archived member
I don't understand why you're the judge and jury of how people spend their time/moneyon this forum in every thread you post in.. If the bloke wants to spend 10k on his car, how do you know he hasn't just flown around the world, ****ed 30 chicks on Contiki, stopped in Thailand on the way home for a few ****tails and wristy's and now he's back at base for a few years to enjoy the other stuff he likes doing? Like working on/driving a nice, quick car... Anyways I wouldnt bother building a motor for 400hp either, give it a freshen up, some head studs, new gaskets, new bearings & rings, get it machined etc it'll cost you $1,500 and as long as it's tuned safely you'll be fine... There's no need to spend (at the very least) 5k on a motor only to be worried all the time it's gonna **** itself... especially if you're only running a 35r.
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SHIZNTArchived member
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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HTURBOArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by PROGMH [View Post] I seriously wouldn't bother building a motor for that kind of power. If you miraculously pop it, throw another ****ter in. If you end up chasing huge power, build it. There's no need for aftermarket pistons, rods, manifolds etc. Unless you wish to drain your bank account. Doesn't pigsy run a NA/turbo slappa for the burnout comp??
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YetiArchived member
10k goes very quickly.... R33 set up $3k plus installation 28 spline LSD $1200 plus installation GT35/40 plus lines & spacer plate $1700 plus installation Turbo low mount manifold $200 Injectors $500 (second hand) fuel rain $200 plus fittings ECU Microtech Lt10-s with loom $1000 plus installation GKTech Cooler $600 3 inch exhaust from turbo $1200 Cam regrind $200 plus install That's $9800 with the assumption your NA block doesn't need any work and without spending money on installation. Even if you do it yourself there will still be a significant cost to replace rubbers, fittings, oil, gaskets etc.... My general rule for car building is do your budget and add 30%. If you cant do the work yourself its going to cost you significantly more. If you are going to do it yourself, start with the important things first. Driveline first then power upgrades. I wouldn't waste money on an aftermarket intake if you want to keep it as a sleeper.
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SL1987Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by PROGMH [View Post] I seriously wouldn't bother building a motor for that kind of power. If you miraculously pop it, throw another ****ter in. If you end up chasing huge power, build it. There's no need for aftermarket pistons, rods, manifolds etc. Unless you wish to drain your bank account. 100% on the money! not worth the money for that power
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SteffArchived member
My advice, start from the ass end and work your way to the front. May find yourself scratching your head by the time you get to the bay..
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