Okay so the plan has changed a fair bit and i now intend to build an RB26/30.
Really only building one because i got a build short motor off my friend really cheap. Consists of:
-Custom CP forged pistons 9:1 suit 25/26 head conversion
-ART 4130 H beam Chromemoly rods w' ARP2000 bolts
-ACL Race series main and big end bearings
-ARP Main studs
Are there any tips or pointers that i should look for when setting up for a 26 head?
I will be running a 6boost w' GT35 0.82, or go 1.06? Or bigger?
What power are the standard GTR coil packs rated too? As i will be running E85 and will need decent spark, im used to factory RB30 systems which are POS standard so please enlighten me if they will be fine.
What water pump/oil pump?
Cams? Cam gears? Valve springs? Should i perform any valve upgrade changes etc? Minor porting? Are the heads that good?
Balancer?
What head studs to use?
Please only guys with experience in these builds comment.
Thanks
p.s. will post up pics as build is ongoing.
Go some spitfire coil packs, then it's done.
Cams in standard form will work for a good street application, and I'd just give the head a general reco to make sure everything is working as it should. I used a re-balanced water pump with rajab pulley as I planned to rev mine quite hard, and I used a brand new vlt oil pump. The powerbond balancer was good value for money, but the romac was cheaper.
From off the top of my head my reco'd head was $1350, and the bottom end complete was around $4500. I ran a standard sump but would use a hi-energy one in future, and I'd definitely go the 1.06 as a minimum with that setup.
I would vouch for everything morgz suggested- new vlt oil pump, n1's push too much oil to the head even with restrictors. Minimum size turbo would have to be a 35/40 with 1.06 rear, or next step which will make comfortable power you'd go t04z. High energy sump and pick up is also a must, as well as the head being serviced
Sounds ok to me, only thing with turbos is what you intend to do with it.
Smaller rear on a manual car, larger rear on an auto with a decent converter.
I would use the split fires or some LS coil packs.
I would bolt the head on stock but serviced for now. The car will still make boku power on 20psi. Well over 300rwkw. If you really want to lean on it, go larger with the turbo and larger with the cams/springs etc.
One of the 25/30's we did, with a baby 30/40 and a small rear, stock head,manual made 300rwkw on 17psi and held it from 3500-7500rpm. Few tricks in the dump design etc but other wise pretty basic.
I had spark issues on a RB25 when I raised the boost.... installed Spit Fires and the problem went away
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Haha. Well like I've told ya before I had a 1.06 rear 35/40 on my car with the glide and 5500 stall and it was an animal, more than on song when it came off the converter lol. Good fun. With the 26 head I vote you step it up!
the biggest problem with RB20/RB25 s1/RB26 coil setups is that they run that little ignitor box that is gayer then aids and aids is more desirable to have.
RB25 S2/RB25 NEO and i think RB26 from R34 run a built in ignitor.
LSX coils also have this.
I got LS2 coils, Removed boot from factory coils.
placed on LS2 coils.
made a little bracket to bolt them down, basic as.
done.
Only prob is i cant run the factory vally cover with out mods, most people dont run them because of the heat it traps anyway. I think with LS1/7 coils the stock cover could be run (same coil just output is sideways)
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
I mounted coils under the dash and just ran leads through the firewall through a gromet. Tidy as, and if I wanted to I could still run the valley cover.
Quote:
Originally Posted by [T]Matty
[View Post]
I looked at spit fires, so many people having problems..
so went LSX.. cheaper and heaps better..
Its SPLITfire, Im sick of reading spitfire its like rocket cover lol.
i'd be fitting one of these if i were you
http://www.spoolimports.com/Catalogu...bjectType= 27 (http://www.spoolimports.com/CatalogueRetrieve.aspx?ProductID=906064&A=SearchResult&SearchID=11854104&ObjectID=906064&ObjectType=27)
if i have my motor out at any stage, i'd be fitting one of these just for a bit of extra insurance : )
ha, didnt even know.. never noticed.
well spit fire coils do bolt into the factory mounts between your rocket covers if thats what your after.
Ok googled it.. big online shops call them both split and spit fire, so its not just me that didnt know.
Also the rear head oil drain is ment to be a big myth. The story goes some big tuner company did it for testing, others seen it and went WTF lets do it! then the first company's tests ended up with it being useless, but by that stage it was already out there.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Dont think this way is worth my while i dont reckon. i have done pricing and it comes pretty high (which isnt too high for an engine build but starting to stretch my budget).
The list is as follows:
genuine oil pump - $350
high volume sump - $490 (Spool imports)
head studs - $300
ACL Gasket - $250
Tomei cam gear - $370
Ross Balancer - $600
RB26 Head with all the gear (inlet side) - $1500
Head recon and mild work - $2000 (unless i just whack it on?)
Bottom end from mate - $2100
Miscellaneous - $500.
This doesnt account for wiring costs, better coils and anything else im missing?
Can anyone comment. I will not want more than 450rwkw even in the future as it becomes too laggy and too unstreetable.
Why don't u just leave it, bolt it together then worry about things as u need them! Do u intend to drive this like it's stolen 24 7? Or are you more interested in a dyno figure and to look good? If the later just bolt it all up and get it going! U will be surprised what all the standard stuff will take
