My wagon has been ****ting me lately. The current problem is that it sometimes just does not start it will turn over but not run, other times it starts and runs perfectly and others it starts and runs a little rough. So my question is what is going on! As a back story it has been running rough on a cold start for nearly a month but after it warms up goes fine (always fine with high revs), the other day the lights werent working it was a fuse I replaced it and then the lights worked and the car didn't. I noticed some warping in the fuse rail, so today I ran separate fuses for the low beam, high beam and fuel pump. I changed the timing, adjusted the throttle cable. It is a standard n/a - 6month old O2 sensor - 6month old Coolant temp sensor - Bosch thick ignition leads - 3/4 month old spark plugs - AFM wires look fine (was replaced a year or so ago with a second hand one) - Dizzy and insides are fine ---------- Post added 23-06-12 at 22:11 ---------- think its the CAS opened the dizzy and there was a **** load of orange dust so Id say bearing seal is gone, dusted up the CAS Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Yeah, the fuse boxes in the VL's are a pain because it is so close to the exhaust manifold, so they tend to melt , it would be good to put a later model fuse box in on the other side of the engine bay (VT onwards), the only thing you can really do there is replace them with those Narva fuse blocks. As far as the CAS goes, it could be something as simple as a worn out bearing and the optical sensor isn't lining up with the chopper plate, try replacing just the bearing, if you're keen or putting another dizzy in, is the ECU throwing any fault codes for that? Yeah, I mentioned that in another thread, there's no point in trying to diagnose a fault when you don't know how something works, it's a bit like my first boss when I sit in front of him after doing the electrical trade course and he's a bit concerned that he doesn't see an A on my TAFE transcript. I did a course on basic transducers as a part of that (that gives me an insight as to how sensors ,etc work in a car with EFI) , then he says "Who gives a Frig about that??" Then 9 years later ,I meet the same bloke whose a fitter (except from Queensland),who was my boss in 2009 and I can't work out why he's screaming at the top of HIS lungs about INTAKES after I had Holden diagnose a knock sensor fault in my car (no scan tool then) as I had to take that off to replace the knock sensor, which IS an active "piezoelectric" transducer as is generates a voltage and sends it to the ECU when an engine knock is detected. The LS1 engine has 2 knock sensors under the intake manifold.

Quote: Originally Posted by RB30DEVL [View Post] Yeah, the fuse boxes in the VL's are a pain because it is so close to the exhaust manifold, so they tend to melt , it would be good to put a later model fuse box in on the other side of the engine bay (VT onwards), the only thing you can really do there is replace them with those Narva fuse blocks. As far as the CAS goes, it could be something as simple as a worn out bearing and the optical sensor isn't lining up with the chopper plate, try replacing just the bearing, if you're keen or putting another dizzy in, is the ECU throwing any fault codes for that? Yeah, I mentioned that in another thread, there's no point in trying to diagnose a fault when you don't know how something works, it's a bit like my first boss when I sit in front of him after doing the electrical trade course and he's a bit concerned that he doesn't see an A on my TAFE transcript. I did a course on basic transducers as a part of that (that gives me an insight as to how sensors ,etc work in a car with EFI) , then he says "Who gives a Frig about that??" Then 9 years later ,I meet the same bloke whose a fitter (except from Queensland),who was my boss in 2009 and I can't work out why he's screaming at the top of HIS lungs about INTAKES after I had Holden diagnose a knock sensor fault in my car (no scan tool then) as I had to take that off to replace the knock sensor, which IS an active "piezoelectric" transducer as is generates a voltage and sends it to the ECU when an engine knock is detected. The LS1 engine has 2 knock sensors under the intake manifold. Please explain??... actually no please don't.

Quote: Originally Posted by mister.x [View Post] My wagon has been ****ting me lately. The current problem is that it sometimes just does not start it will turn over but not run, other times it starts and runs perfectly and others it starts and runs a little rough. So my question is what is going on! As a back story it has been running rough on a cold start for nearly a month but after it warms up goes fine (always fine with high revs), the other day the lights werent working it was a fuse I replaced it and then the lights worked and the car didn't. I noticed some warping in the fuse rail, so today I ran separate fuses for the low beam, high beam and fuel pump. I changed the timing, adjusted the throttle cable. It is a standard n/a - 6month old O2 sensor - 6month old Coolant temp sensor - Bosch thick ignition leads - 3/4 month old spark plugs - AFM wires look fine (was replaced a year or so ago with a second hand one) - Dizzy and insides are fine ---------- Post added 23-06-12 at 22:11 ---------- think its the CAS opened the dizzy and there was a **** load of orange dust so Id say bearing seal is gone, dusted up the CAS it could be a faulty fuel pressure regulator Some original photos have not been recovered yet.