Hey Dudes, Need some help if possible relating to the Turbz and getting her back on the road. We have discovered that the Standard VLT Alternator is struggling to keep charge of anything in the car. Due to the Fuel Pumps, Fans, Sound System etc its struggling. Basically, if the car is not under load and you have the Fans on the idle is horrendous, almost dying. It even got to the point where even with the fans off the car would still struggle. We are trying to find out an option to either upgrade to a bigger Alternator, or customize something to suit. I have spoken to Stef from 12Volt but it seems that modifying a set up like he has in the past is not consistently effective so we are trying to work out the best option. Has anyone had any experience, or does anyone know of perhaps another Alternator which will work for this situation? Need something at the bare minimum of 105AMP. Cheers, Matt

I'm in the same situ, idling at night, fuel pumps, headlights, heater fan, demister and basic stereo, is enough for the volt gauge to drop right down and idle like sh1t. Soon as there is like 1000rpm bang up she goes.

Yep, Its horrendous. Not really sure what options there are, I know the R33 (I think) Alternator can fit, and is 90AMP but seriously think I need more.

Common prob is if you have the Bosch alt the regulator on the back ****s itself just been through this it's like 80 bucks to replace it and it's like brand new again you shouldn't need more than 90a unless you have a competition sound system with like 10 amps etc just make sure to get a new battery as well cause mine shat itself when I fixed the alternator cause of the improved charging ability

It can all add up pretty quickly. You can get "stereo competition" universal alternators (250A+) which some dedicated stereo cars use. But not much good for performance engines (ie, good for producing big amps on idle - not good for anything else). p.s. thank fuck for 140A alternators standard on LS1's Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

R33 alt will bolt up exactly same as standard vl item the only difference is the plug for regulator which can chop off any r33 n join the two wires up the the current wires ---------- Post added 18-06-12 at 19:45 ---------- If dont want to change the plug can use r31 rb30 alt there 80amp i think which has correct plug just bolt it up connect the wires away you go

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=250047 First page of tech articles lol. 110A alternator upgrade!

Running a Bosch 120amp alternator. Keeps things running smoothly. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Holde...em 20b7b9b0de (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Holden-Hi-Output-120-Amp-6-Cylinder-V8-Alternator-/140521353438?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b7b9b0de)

Hturbo does that bosch unit bolt stright up to the rb30 as mine let go yesterday arvo as well n i need upgrade ??

Quote: Originally Posted by mr_vl86 [View Post] Hturbo does that bosch unit bolt stright up to the rb30 as mine let go yesterday arvo as well n i need upgrade ?? Yep straight swap. Make sure to buy one with the same plug. Had a chat with my local auto electrician & he ordered one in.

is all your wiring up to scratch? good earths everywhere etc?

Cheers Guys, Going to try the R33 as the Auto Elec feels that it should be enough, and anything over that will struggle keeping charge at idle. Will let you know how it goes, appreciate the replies.

I did this conversion and it has sorted out my issues with idle, it has had an issue charging above 6000rpm on the dyno, but how long do you spend above that range? http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=250047

Battery in boot?

Quote: Originally Posted by calais25t [View Post] Battery in boot? Yeah, my battery is in the boot?

Quote: Originally Posted by TROPPY [View Post] Yeah, my battery is in the boot? Nah Blink, Sounds like an earth / current problem more than the alternator thats why I asked if it was in the boot.

Quote: VLT Alternator Issues Hey Dudes, Need some help if possible relating to the Turbz and getting her back on the road. We have discovered that the Standard VLT Alternator is struggling to keep charge of anything in the car. Due to the Fuel Pumps, Fans, Sound System etc its struggling. Basically, if the car is not under load and you have the Fans on the idle is horrendous, almost dying. It even got to the point where even with the fans off the car would still struggle. We are trying to find out an option to either upgrade to a bigger Alternator, or customize something to suit. I have spoken to Stef from 12Volt but it seems that modifying a set up like he has in the past is not consistently effective so we are trying to work out the best option. Has anyone had any experience, or does anyone know of perhaps another Alternator which will work for this situation? Need something at the bare minimum of 105AMP. Cheers, Matt I saw a 110 amp alternator for sale on Ebay for a Nissan Quest (American model), that is made to fit a VG30 engine but that looks like it could easily be made to fit an RB series motor. The only other option would be to try and fit 2 alternators onto the motor, there's always that issue with clearance , particularly if the car has air conditioning & power steering.

ditch the thermo's nothing wrong with the standard clutch fan with regards to the rough idle depending on ecu what happens is the injectors aren't voltage referenced when voltage changes the injector duty cycle changes too, seen this first hand a half decent ecu will alter idc to compensate

Quote: Originally Posted by RB30DEVL [View Post] I saw a 110 amp alternator for sale on Ebay for a Nissan Quest (American model), that is made to fit a VG30 engine but that looks like it could easily be made to fit an RB series motor. The only other option would be to try and fit 2 alternators onto the motor, there's always that issue with clearance , particularly if the car has air conditioning & power steering. If two is better than one, why not 3 or 7?

Got rid of the thermals, replaced the alternator - runs a dream.