Ok so I know most of you will probably hate me for this but I just need some quick advice about hacking up my new GKtech intercooler piping. I got one of the dodgy fitting ones for 50% off (stoked about the price and never expected it to fit) my bottom (cold return) pipe is about 5 inches off fitting the top pipe, if i just cut it and add another silicone join (with maybe 2 hose clamps per side so 4 all up) will this work or am I likely to blow the joins off once i wind the boost up a little bit? thanks guys and sorry again, i know intercooler questions must be getting old by now, I've seen about 50 threads about them but none that answer this question for me. Al

well commonsense would be that ud get some emri tape or sand paper and sand the edges so the joiners have something to grip and wont come off. thats what id do anyway.

That will work fine. I did the same thing on my last GKtech kit and I didn't have any dramas. T-bolt clamps are where it's at though!

**** T-bolt clamps..lol, for people running 35+psi or muzzas or dumb workshops who can't make a intercooler pipe straight, or don't know what a pipe edge rolling machine is(which seem to be the problem 90 percent of the time and T-bolts are meant to be a magic cure..****en roflmao, then when that doesn't work, they fit straps to keep the cooler pipes together ).. Jubilee hose clamps are the go.. and they are $2 each..not $5, hydraulic places sell them..

awesome fellas thanks for the help! hopefully have the cooler on tomorrow then.

Yeh cut the pipe, but go get the cut lip rolled on both ends and add silicon piece and it will be sweet....otherwise it will just be another bodgy muzza spec POS and could blow of whenever it feels like..but it will be late 90's melb spec..lol cheers darren

^^ lol, or the old 4 weld spots to keep the 2 buck clamps on. Fantastic

Quote: Originally Posted by vl4skids [View Post] ^^ lol, or the old 4 weld spots to keep the 2 buck clamps on. Fantastic lol, and this is from workshops most of the time..lol cheers darren

LOL yeah I don't want to build a big POS, hoping to eventually run 11's and want to do the whole build properly. I'll get the edges rolled then, working out at Mikes Dyno Tuning in dandenong ATM so hopefully I'll be able to get it done there. Thanks again for the sound advice guys, Al

Buying a T bolt clamp is so much easier and convenient than getting the lips rolled. I highly doubt he is running 35+ psi Cheers Locky Cheers Locky Cheers Locky Cheers Locky

Haha locky cheers locky. Man no shi!t if you are desperate do the weld spots, I did them as a temporary thing on my car and it held 25 pound no sweat, so as said above if it's not running 35psi+ I really woukdnt stress. I'm with Darren on the fidget workshops lol

most of my cooler pipe work is just cut and slaped upwith joiners and normal clamps. tridon brand or some sh.it like that. if you tighten it like a man i dont see why it will pop off with boost under 20psi ive never had a problem

cant be asked readin posts so check my vlt thread i used one had to add pipe and one silicon joiner so it didnt stick out like a sore clit

Quote: Originally Posted by TUXEDO [View Post] Buying a T bolt clamp is so much easier and convenient than getting the lips rolled. I highly doubt he is running 35+ psi Cheers Locky Cheers Locky Cheers Locky Cheers Locky And its bodgy as **** and asking for trouble... ..whats your point?,you can be bothered "building" a car, but now we can't take the pipe to a shop to get rolled..lol,fairly ****ing simple please explain tell how the "miracle" T-bolt clamps hold better than a decent hose clamp..lol Now if you don't know about the pipe roller machine and do welds or fit t-bolts, then thats cool, we all learn as we go along, but if you know about them or own a workshop and still **** around ..theres no excuse.. and it get worse if you drag race as everything flexs more on slicks, thats why half the people don't have a problem TILL they drag race.. cheers darren ---------- Post added 22-04-12 at 11:58 ---------- generic clamp jubilee clamp 2.5 inch piping are 55-70mm, 3inch piping are 70-90mm cheers darren Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I allways use these suckers. (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/33/intercoolpiping.jpg/) Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us) With intercooler piping. I'd allways have a lip/bead on the end of the intercooler pipe. Gives you extra security that it won't blow off. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

He has simply fitted a GKtech intercooler kit to his obviously standard VL turbo, he never said he has built a drag car and wants to run 35 psi.

He's said he would like to one day run 11's...that good enough for me to not cut corners on something that usually come back at you at a later date , if not its just luck more than anything.. I have personally seen no beaded cooler pipes with t bolts blow of at **** all psi.. if you can't see the reason why i emphasis on this..then you may have missed the point..to do it properly is easy..its future proofing and its not expensive at all, and the owner will have NO problems at all, if he does it another way..it neither here or there..he might get away with it..it may blow of every second set of traffic lights.. I have just been in this same boat fitted a really cheap china cooler kit to my stagea,,it didn;'t line up, in my books one piece of silicon was 30mm to short, 1 bracket was 20mm out and in wrong spot and doing nothing it had cheap clamps ..now i "could" of just fitted it and maybe it would be cool..maybe it woudn't, instead i remade the 3 brackets, put a 100mm piece of silicon in the place of the 70mm bit and changed the clamps to Jubilees..it cost me another $50 and a couple hours of work but now i know i can run 30psi easy through it if i ever choose , it won't blow **** of, and won't leak .. all for 10 percent more effort I am sorry if i offended you anyway Tuxedo cheers darren

I'm pretty sure you both see each other's point; Locky's solution doesn't negate the possibility of using Darren's solution later down the track.

didnt mean to start world war VIII :S but appreciate the advice from all. JETR31 and Tuxedo i'm gonna just cut and clamp it until next month when I'm back at Mike's Dyno where I'll take it off again and get the lips rolled, or if possible get it cut and shut so that i dont even need joins. i wont be running more than 12psi until i can afford injectors and a highflowed turbo so by then the lips should be rolled. HTURBO yeah those are the clamps that came with the kit and they look pretty f***in solid so I'm gonna use them. thanks again for the advice fellas, group hug time.

lol why is this thread still goin? if people cant think of a simple solution like this they possible shouldnt be around vehicles.