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straight gas Turbo RB30 GQ patrol

Started by simmo4by · 19 Apr 2012 · 10 replies

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simmo4byArchived member
Hey all just need some info about ignition timing. I'm still running the stock dizzy and was wondering where to set the timing. It has vacuume advance so should I run it or disasble it? Need some info please. ---------- Post added 19-04-12 at 15:10 ---------- I'm guessing nobody knows. I'm not too keen on advancing it till it pings as boost and detonation don't like each other. Anyone point me in the general direction?
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LS1vycalArchived member
My straight gas turbo patrol runs 15 deg. What sort of power is yours making
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oken44Archived member
Are you guys running the patrol dizzy with vac advance or electronic ign?
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boosted_wagonArchived member
if your running the standard dizzy with vac advance u need to have your dizzy regrafed so it retards timing under boost.....
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simmo4byArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by boosted_wagon [View Post] if your running the standard dizzy with vac advance u need to have your dizzy regrafed so it retards timing under boost..... Wow this was a while ago. All sorted now. I just kept the original patrol dizzy standard and used a MSD 6BTM to retard timing on boost. She made 200rwkw and 1050nm torque. .85 lambda solid on boost. Ive been through one engine already with a cracked head (300,000km on it though). Pulled an engine from a VL wreck and so far all is good. She runs 14psi on a stock N/A bottom end with no knocking at all. Runs out of fuel in the top end but it rarely sees anything over 4k rpm when I'm driving it. Full boost (14psi) by 2400rpm using an ebay turbo t50/.63 internal gate, 2.5" exhaust, 2.5" piping with a small apexi IC. All up total cost including tuning and all the little bits and pieces came to $2800, not bad when you consider its also got a $500 MSD ignition thrown in. On another note does ACL still make rebuild kits for the rb30? I am wanting to build a new fresh engine possibly with some forgies if the budget allows. I'm thinking about spending $1500 for the rebuild internals only. All the other crap like oil pump,water pump and gaskets I already have. Would there be any advantage to using forged rods for my build? I'm only looking for 200rwkw but mainly a strong bottom end that can take hours of hot bush punishment without the fear of launching the engine. Cheers
Photo 1 shared by simmo4byPhoto 2 shared by simmo4by
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boosted_wagonArchived member
mate for 200rwkw leave it standard, na bottom ends have seen 400rwkw so just go with it....as for leaning out up high ya need to mod ya tank and possibly add another line and converter......I wouldn't push any more boost into it until u get steel top converter though as that's just waiting to blow off...
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simmo4byArchived member
It is a steel topped converter. Black for some reason. 400kw stock N/A internals? Those engines I imagine wouldn't last very long. I need it to be rock solid as I tow a 1000kg offroad camper and the last thing I need is a $3000 tow ride home when out in the High country. I'd still like to build a fresh engine as the original block needs to go back in for vicroad purposes when I sell it. The best part about it is I get 660km from a 90L tank whilst towing the camper, not bad for a 3.8 ton brick with another ton towing behind it. I just can't seem to find the ACL rebuild kits anymore.
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boosted_wagonArchived member
acl are crap man ya better off getting forged pistons and rods if ya going to rebuild it....least u have piece of mind
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gardnaArchived member
How on earth does your car weigh 3.8ton?
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oken44Archived member
What gas converter and throttle body are you using? That's awesome fuel economy your getting.
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simmo4byArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by gardna [View Post] How on earth does your car weigh 3.8ton? Yeah sorry. 2.8ton.
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