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Vy ss check engine warning

Started by Pugz90 · 17 Jan 2012 · 5 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

Pugz90Archived member
Hey ppl I have a vy ss 6 speed, i changed the fuel filter last week and i de pressurised the fuel lines by starting the car and pulling the fuel pump fuse out, the old filter was really really dirty with black crap coming out of it. and since i have put it back in after about 5 minutes of driving the check engine warning comes on and it loses some power and stays that way untill i disconnect the battery for 5 minutes or so, then once the battery is re connected its runs beautiful until the check engine warning comes up again. i had a mail order mafless tune done on it this morning and it still does the same thing, i told the bloke that was doing the mafless tune that it was doing it and the scan tool didnt show any faults what so ever whilst plugged into my car. Was thinking it could be the 02 sensors as its getting cleaner fuel now and the 02 sensors might not be used to that Im hoping someone could please shed some light on my problem. Thanks in advance
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Pugz90Archived member
Now the check engine warning is coming on every time i start my car, it used to say ok on the holden check when i start it but now it doesnt, Any ideas? Thanks
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FRASHDArchived member
You need to find out what the code is. Guessing the problem is not diagnosing the problem. That would be like me ringing the doctor and saying "I feel sick, tell what's wrong without looking at me"
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Pugz90Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by FRASHD [View Post] You need to find out what the code is. Guessing the problem is not diagnosing the problem. That would be like me ringing the doctor and saying "I feel sick, tell what's wrong without looking at me" Hey mate thanks for your reply The bloke who did the tune is hopefully coming back into town today and he is going to come plug his scan tool in and see what he can find out for me. It kinda like its put the car in limp home mode still has some power but i can tell its not all there, also running a bit rich as its tuned for an otr and i still have not got one on there as of yet and i think it might be starving for more air. Any ideas why it would start doing it after changing the fuel filter and doing an oil change? was perfectly fine before i did them 2 thing Thanks again mate Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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RB30DEVLArchived member
I went through my whole car to fix driveability problems such as bad idle (rough idle/misfire), hesitation on acceleration and to find out why the check engine symbol came on when sitting at idle from cold , I'll list the things which I found :- - Was coming up as an open loop fault on the scan tool though no fault codes were recorded - Exhaust system was replaced due to cracks ,new redback twin 2.5 inch system, new cats & 02 sensors (car already had custom headers/exhaust system fitted) - Air leaks at inlet manifold, new gaskets and bolts fitted, bolts can only be used once as I found out (one snapped off when I was tightening the bolts of previous to replacing the gaskets), they are torque yield and can only be used once, the torque setting is very low (8 NM) and I found that a torque wrench with a 1/4 inch drive works the best , the one with the 3/8 inch drive is what snapped the bolt. - Fuel pump assy replaced, fuel pump was worn out, fuel sender unit damaged. -Replaced fuel injectors, though I put a kit through them, the right hand bank appeared to be running far richer than the left hand bank on the scan tool, ordered a brand new set from the U.S. for $244 AUD , engine runs smoother and the fuel mixtures are even on both banks now , didn't have the time to pull the car off the road and have the injectors professionally cleaned and the cost of buying second hand injectors and doing that would've ended up being the same price as the new set. - Fitted a new water pump which I bought off E-bay for $129 after changing all the cooling system hoses, clamps & coolant, main impeller seal started leaking water after a couple of months, came complete with thermostat which stuffed up too, centre square ring snapped in half causing the thermostat not to close properly thus causing the motor to run too cool, this caused the ECU to go into open loop mode, fitted another water pump I ordered on there for $199 on Friday (minus thermostat), fitted the original thermostat back into it off the first water pump , hasn't missed a beat since. - Quick connect pipe between intake manifold and Purge control solenoid (for charcoal canister) was all worn out and leaking air, this somehow triggered a fault code for the solenoid, just replaced it with a piece of fuel hose, just gotta make sure that it's not the solenoid itself that's faulty now. - Just re-oiling the K & N air filter now to top it all off, will let it dry overnight while I sleep.
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Pugz90Archived member
Hey thanks for your feedback, found out it was 1 knock sensor that was setting it off, have them turned off for the moment till I can get the time to replace them. Thanks again mate Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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