Hi Guys, 1st question: Can a turbo auto transmission be bolted to a N/A RB30 Engine? 2nd Question: I had great difficulty bolting the transmission bellhousing bolts onto the rear of the enginebe, it all aligned up but the bolts won't go in all the way? I then tried to connect the flex plate bolts to the convertor and that went all smooth, now for some reason l canT get the transmission bolted on the rear of the engine AS the bolts are falling short, checked the convertor and then is in the bellhousing right at the rear of the bellhousing. Could some please help ASAP...... CHEERS

1st question. Yes. The Jatco auto's are pretty much identical between n/a and turbo except for some internal differences that do not affect the mating to the block. 2nd question. not sure on this one - is the converter hitting on the bellhousing??? have you checked that the flexplate is seated/bolted correctly to the crank?? are you sure you have the correct bolts for the auto-to-block? edit: are you converting from manual? if so - have you removed the spigot bush?

not sure what you mean by converter hitting bellhousing? will check flexplate now, bolts are all the right ones, no not converting to manual.

Possible to get photo's of the issue?

This guy asking for help AGAIN lol. Do you mean that the bolts are getting tight to the bellhousing but, the bellhousing isn't mated to the block (as in there is a gap between the block and the bellhousing when the bolts are tight)

Bet the transmission oil pump drive is not engaged

That's what I was getting at Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

ok, finally got the bolts in the block used every bit energy l had. finally got it all done, l then decided to turn the crankshaft pulley by hand and it simply wont move?? Haven't started the car yet as l have to put oil in the car, any ideas why the crank wont even move now??

dont mean to be rude but some times its better to pay a mechanic...... did you measure converter pull out before you fitted it?

Quote: Originally Posted by FRKVLT [View Post] ok, finally got the bolts in the block used every bit energy l had. finally got it all done, l then decided to turn the crankshaft pulley by hand and it simply wont move?? Haven't started the car yet as l have to put oil in the car, any ideas why the crank wont even move now?? give up man and just stick to what ever it is your good at and pay a professional

Took the dust cover plate off to find the flex plate is rite up against the rear of the engine which is causing the problems l am having, l'm guessing the TC is connected correctly to the input shaft but not connected correctly to the drive gears? Will open the trans again and update when l have more info... ---------- Post added 31-12-11 at 01:42 ---------- Quote: Originally Posted by RB2GO [View Post] Bet the transmission oil pump drive is not engaged When l slide the converter should l hear two clicks? one for input shaft other for the oil pump drive gears? thanks

Quote: Originally Posted by FRKVLT [View Post] Took the dust cover plate off to find the flex plate is rite up against the rear of the engine which is causing the problems l am having, l'm guessing the TC is connected correctly to the input shaft but not connected correctly to the drive gears? Will open the trans again and update when l have more info... how the **** can you even get the flex plate touching the engine? i'm better this is the turn of events you installed converter but didn't seat the transmission into the converter properly, then you located the box and lined it up as best as you could, found it fell about 10-20mm short and decided to install the bolts and use them to pull the box in now the damage, probably bent the flex plate, i'd throw it in the bin if it were me. possible gearbox damage, and possible damage to the splines within the converter, you'll have to inspect these ---------- Post added 31-12-11 at 01:45 ---------- Quote: Originally Posted by FRKVLT [View Post] When l slide the converter should l hear two clicks? one for input shaft other for the oil pump drive gears? thanks 3 clicks from memory, the last one is a ******* because even if you jiggle the converter and try to turn it to get it to locate it actually turns the pump this gives the illusion you've seated the converter when really you haven't

will check as you mentioned above, luckily l have 2 other converters and a spare flex plate lying around....

Quote: Originally Posted by FRKVLT [View Post] will check as you mentioned above, luckily l have 2 other converters and a spare flex plate lying around..... to check the converter is seated properly also get a vernier and use it to measure the distance from the trans mounting points on the block to the face place of the flex plate what ever the measurement is the depth from the front of the bell housing to the front of the converter will be the same, if not it hasn't seated properly

Quote: Originally Posted by vltrb-0 [View Post] to check the converter is seated properly also get a vernier and use it to measure the distance from the trans mounting points on the block to the face place of the flex plate what ever the measurement is the depth from the front of the bell housing to the front of the converter will be the same, if not it hasn't seated properly thanks for your help champ!

Quote: Originally Posted by FRKVLT [View Post] thanks for your help champ! thats a champ this is me Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by FRKVLT [View Post] not sure what you mean by converter hitting bellhousing? will check flexplate now, bolts are all the right ones, no not converting to manual. he asked if you are converting FROM manual

everyone says its hard to install the convertor, and it really shouldnt be, then again i had no engine in my car when i did this so had lots of room. Basiclly stood inside the engine bay, placed the convertor into the bellhousing. Then apply pressure to it once it has seated in the gear box, as your applying pressure (not heaps but enough so it will click in when it needs to) Spin the convertor clockwise and you should feel and most likely hear it lodge into when it need to go. You need to do this untill you feel it fall into place THREE TIMES. if your not sure if it seated in 3 times, just keep spinning it while applying pressure for peice of mind

The secret to easily engaging the oil pump is to pull the convertor forward a couple of mm every time you turn it, then push it back again. If you don't do that the face of the drive tang will be pushing against the oil pump and you'll be turning both together, meaning the index won't change and it'll never go in

Update: pulled the transmission and new engine out of the car and found the following: You can see in the pic with my old engine the bearing is long (in the centre). The new engine bearing is too small?? l'm assuming the bearings can be changed over? if yes, how would l go about changing the bearing? Would l have to return the engine or can l just install my old bearing in the new engine> cheers