can you run a vl turbo cam in a n/a vl manual

STD turbo and n/a ate exactly the same,nit sure about aftermarket

They are slightly different.. Do a bit of a search on here. No point changing it though if your looking for performance.. the difference is minimal.

VLT cam will actually loose you power, minimal though, but yes it will run fine

Broke my n/a cam while driving home Friday night Got a vlt one sitting here but have removed head now as unsure what damage to valves or pistons has been done from cam snap Has anyone every broke a n/a cam in a stock Vl before

snapped cam? how did you manage that? there has to be something else broken, a spun bearing or ****ed valve.

Unsure snapped just inside the head still had cam gear and dizzy spinning but rest of it was separate so now I have the head off and getting it checked today to see what is wrong with it Exhaust manifold had 5 bolts missing Head looks like it never has been apart Pistons look good no damaged But after cam snapped just put another cam in set up all the timing then started it and had rough idle and no power so bit worried I might have done more damage but can't see anything that stands out

might be out of timing, check ur cam timing and dizzy timing, my car used to run **** when i had gas and it skipped a tooth front firing out of the airbox lol...its fine now. maybe a bent valve? had to have damaged somethin else, what were u doing when it snapped? smashing the limiter haha?

Getting onto eastlink doing 80 just dropped head off the guy recons the afm will be farked cause it would have back fired when cam snapped Hence why it would idle normal so might not have needed to remove head at all

when mine broke it was due to a crack in the head from cyl1 through 5. Right down the cam tunnel. Get it checked, i couldn;t see it until it was heated and expanded...

head is probably warped for the cam to snap

I'd say a lot of **** is horribly wrong with your engine if you snapped a cam.

it would be a warped head, meaning the cam is constantly bending to the shape of the head ie: if engine is revving at 2000 the cam is turning 1000 times and bending constantly weakening and weakening it. you may have bent valves and stuff too. best just taking your head off and taking a look. do it once do it right.

RB30's are free running, meaning pistons can't hit valves in an event such as this one.

Ah, Lucky.

We're can I get a decom plate from somewhere near dandenong ??

I think the N/A cam has a slightly higher lift or something like that and is what most people go for when strapping a turbo onto say an RB30E or something. Yeah, my personal preference has always been to run standard Nissan cams in their motors , I love them for their smoothness and refinement but when I wanted more power, I went for the twin cam 24 valve RB25 head on the RB30 block to retain that because I wanted to get around the issue of insuring a VL turbo and my budget was very tight. Someone on youtube has got what sounds like a stage 3 cam running in their VL wagon and I wasn't impressed with how it ran, engine mods such as that have been known to destroy the refinement of these motors. These days I drive an LS1 powered VY Commodore which I'm happy with (their surprisingly similar to a VL I think) , around the 250 - 300 FWKW mark is enough for me.

only difrence between the na and turbo cam is the na cam has more lift where the turbo cam has more duration.....it wouldnt be noticable in an na aplication if u run a turbo cam

My mate had a r31 skyline and it was manual and had a vlt cam, went better than my standard rb30.