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Stally size for 5ltr??

Started by VLPSI355 · 29 July 2011 · 17 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts. View original archive ↗

VLPSI355Archived member
Hey Guys,Just want to get some advice on what size stall i should get or if i should even get one..I have a standard vt hsv 5ltr(195),with good exhaust and a touch up on the tune.I've put some 3.9's in the bum to make it feel quicker on take off,As you all know there a big heavy car.Should i get a stally to get it going even better off the line?If so what size would you go with a standard 5ltr?Should i go with a lock up converter also? Any help would be great
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grunter01Archived member
are you going to ever change the cam?
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VLPSI355Archived member
prob not mate
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defrie69Archived member
stally size depends on the work done to your car eg, cam, headowrk, etc best option would to be to talk to a trans specialist and tell them your exact plan and what has already been done to her my guess would be they will say a 2200 or 2500 stally im not sayin for sure but be my guess
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NVAOVRArchived member
iey bud, if you don't have any intentions of doing internal engine work, some thing like a 1800-2500 range would be good, at least you will have more revs off the line to take off. and converters also help if you tow trailers and things like that too. because you have a 4 speed auto, a lockup converter is what u would be getting either way. lockup is for the overdrive off memory.
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VLPSI355Archived member
Thanks guys.I was thinking something around the 2200 or 2500
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MarzellaArchived member
3500 at least, its a heavy car.. i had a 3500 with 3.9s felt good.
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sik208Archived member
i have a 2500 stall,i have standard cam, worked up gearbox, 3:45 gears pretty responsive streeter
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bachig24uArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by VLPSI355 [View Post] Hey Guys,Just want to get some advice on what size stall i should get or if i should even get one..I have a standard vt hsv 5ltr(195),with good exhaust and a touch up on the tune.I've put some 3.9's in the bum to make it feel quicker on take off,As you all know there a big heavy car.Should i get a stally to get it going even better off the line?If so what size would you go with a standard 5ltr?Should i go with a lock up converter also? Any help would be great what rpm is the car doing at 100km/h? or what is the rear tyre size?
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VLPSI355Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by bachig24u [View Post] what rpm is the car doing at 100km/h? or what is the rear tyre size? it sit on 2000-2100rpm at 100km/h rear tires are 245/35/20's
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bachig24uArchived member
I think your are in an overdrive ratio for that low rpm. I wouldn't go over a 2600 stally in that case. If you tow, maybe best to not use top at all to ensure the convertor doesn't cook the oil.
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MarzellaArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by bachig24u [View Post] I think your are in an overdrive ratio for that low rpm. I wouldn't go over a 2600 stally in that case. If you tow, maybe best to not use top at all to ensure the convertor doesn't cook the oil. Can you explain what revs at 100kph have to do with choosing a stall? and how you came up with 2600?
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bachig24uArchived member
Ideally you don't want your engine revving so hard when it doesn't need to, its also just easier to work with 100 as it divides quickly. If an engine revs 500rpm more than it needs to, based on 2000, it now revs at 2500, you just lessened its life cycle by 20% Grab a cam card for your engine and you'll see how the torque curve (cam choice) is important. similarly a dynamometer pull with a 1:1 gear selection. has anyone got one for this car/engine?
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MarzellaArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by bachig24u [View Post] Ideally you don't want your engine revving so hard when it doesn't need to, its also just easier to work with 100 as it divides quickly. If an engine revs 500rpm more than it needs to, based on 2000, it now revs at 2500, you just lessened its life cycle by 20% Grab a cam card for your engine and you'll see how the torque curve (cam choice) is important. similarly a dynamometer pull with a 1:1 gear selection. has anyone got one for this car/engine? Im not quite sure i understand your theory, choosing a stall speed (flash and footbrake) is application specific (1/8th mile racing, street, full 1/4 etc..) not just based on your engine, and not based on your rpm at cruise speed? Are you saying with a 2600rpm stall youll be doing 2600rpm at 100kph? As an example although this combination is mismatched you could build a tight 5k stall have a 2.7:1 final drive ratio with o/d and you could be sitting on <2000rpm at 100kph. As a pretty rough guide you would be safe with a stall speed around 200rpm under your peak torque figure. I had 3.91 final drive with a 3500rpm stall in a 4l60e and used to sit at roughly 2400rpm at 100kph. It barely differed if at all from a standard convertor.
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bachig24uArchived member
no I'm not saying that, but its relevant when the car is drag racing to calculate which gear will be best running through the traps at an optimum rpm for the engine in question. what I was reffering to was flash stall as you mentioned. trying to save the technical jargon. Mue, vanes, turbine, stator, lockup, pump, transbrake etc for another day. flash stall speed is some what different to footbrake stall speed, the TC will flash to the stall speed but usually not when stalled under footbrake. An rpm recall on the tacho will easily show this.
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aZ`Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Marzella [View Post] I had 3.91 final drive with a 3500rpm stall in a 4l60e and used to sit at roughly 2400rpm at 100kph. It barely differed if at all from a standard convertor. That's because a decent converter doesn't slip any more than a stock one under light load conditions, if it does, you have an energy wasting crappy POS converter that wont lock properly (within 10% slip) once above rated flash, however in this particular case we're talking 100% lock up via clutch so it's cruising rpm has absolutely no relevance to stall speed here at all.
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MarzellaArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by aZ` [View Post] That's because a decent converter doesn't slip any more than a stock one under light load conditions, if it does, you have an energy wasting crappy POS converter that wont lock properly (within 10% slip) once above rated flash, however in this particular case we're talking 100% lock up via clutch so it's cruising rpm has absolutely no relevance to stall speed here at all. Exactly my point
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xctmnt8Archived member
Had same engine combo and diff ration in my old VT Calais, spoke to the blokes at a decent trans joint here in Adelaide, they recommended a 2200 stall for the street (based on not doing any other engine mods), ended up putting a dominator 2500 in it, and it was awesome off the line and perfect on the street
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