So im just after some help/advice with my motor and my VL, It Will be Manual MX7 (Jim Berry Race Clutch) & 28 Spline VLT Diff (gears not yet choosen) With a goal of 300rwkw Motor: Basically all the rebuild work and parts can be found in link below, but a quick run down on what i have: Reco'd Head Cam Details: 1522b on 112, custom grind ARP Head Studs Forged Pistons Spool I Beam Rods Rings, bearings, gaskets etc etc http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=223591 Im thinking: CPC Plenum Street Version: $900 Throttle Body: XF or 80mm: $430 Fuel Rail: $230 6Boost: Turbo: GT35 $1550 Braided Lines $350 50mm Turbosmart external gate: $650 6boost Exhaust Manifold: $1200 JD Exhaust Manifold: $1000 Computer: Injectors: Is there anything else im missing? Basically i want to organize inlet and exhaust manifold my self then take to a work shop to complete? But i want peoples opinions on the above first... My next issue is, my engine bay and undercarriage are painted, diff and gearbox are installed, however no interior or exterior work has been done... should i fit my motor now and get the car running so the motor is not sitting on an engine stand? or should i leave the engine on the stand and install the motor last? Basically i want her finished and tuned ready to drive by August 2012 Sorry for all the questions and i have searched, but just want do it once do it rite Edited my first post after receiving some helpful information Any more info or if someone knows if i can get better prices

CPC creations: race version Throttle: 80mm Injectors: depends(high or low impedance). high impedence E85 (indyblues 1600cc) 98ron (875cc siemens) low impedence E85(ID2000) 98ron (1000cc Rochester) Turbo: GTX3582aR, TO4z 1.00ar, Manifold: 6boost, JPC External/Internal gate: An internal wastegate is built in as part of the turbocharger's turbine housing. It consists of an flapper door that allows exhaust gas to bypass the the turbine blade, thus regulating the amount of boost created. An external wastegate is a separate unit from the turbocharger, located on the exhaust header/manifold between the engine and the turbo. Regulating boost is done in a similar bypassing method, but is done before the exhaust gas reaches the turbochargers turbine housing. The size of an internal wastegate is proportionate to the size of the turbo, where as an external wastegate, because it's located outside of the turbo, can be made much larger. An internal wastegate becomes too small when the volume of exhaust gasses coming from the motor (http://www.team-integra.net/forum/#) exceeds the efficiency of that size wastegate. That's when an external wastegate can be utilized, to vent the extra exhaust gasses to stabilize boost pressure. So your best bet would be External !

Thanks mate that's a great explanation on the wastegate... Impedence injectors? what do you mean by high or low?

you want to have motor in car running before any paint on the ouside is done. 1 paint engine bay 2 fit motor 3 fit all panels then remove panels 4 edge out panels 5 refit panels 6 final rub 7 colour

Quote: Originally Posted by VL-EXEC [View Post] Thanks mate that's a great explanation on the wastegate... Impedence injectors? what do you mean by high or low? Some ecu's can take high or low impedence. My LINK G3 can only take high impedence. Mircotech lt8 can run either high or low impedence injectors. VL-EXEC what ecu are you running??

None ATM

mmmmm, by the sounds of things & your mods you'll probably need a aftermarket ECU.

Link G3s can run both high and low impedance injectors. However, you need to use ballast resistors should you wish to run low impedance. To find out, you simply need to measure the resistance of your injectors. If the resistance is more than 6 ohms, you'll be fine. Under 6 ohms and you'll need the ballast resistors.

Quote: Originally Posted by NZ_GTS [View Post] However, you need to use ballast resistors should you wish to run low impedance. Agree, thats what AVO said. LINK G3 can run low impedence if you use ballast resistors.

Also another idea was to fit all the original gear back on, get the car regested and then change all the gear over?

I dont think you'll need the CPC race plenum for that power goal, ariel tells me the street version will see a well built car into 9's, so if you really want to spend the extra cash go for it. I think the only difference between the two is the race version has customized/flowed runners.

Quote: Originally Posted by xAsh- [View Post] I dont think you'll need the CPC race plenum for that power goal, ariel tells me the street version will see a well built car into 9's, so if you really want to spend the extra cash go for it. I think the only difference between the two is the race version has customized/flowed runners. Correct. I think you could make 600HP-700HP easy with the standard RB30ET plenum. Apparently the N/A plenum flows better aswell. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Yeah doesnt one of maatouks machines run 9's with an MX7 and standard VLT plenum?

Yeah i was wait for a reply from ariel, street version should be plenty..

Bump, need to get this sorted out, still unsure wether to give the above a go my self or take it in...

any other one got any info/advice

moved to the right section

your right gents, the Street version will be plenty for what you are after.......and please dont get me started on "x" manifold can make "x" power LOL