yesterday i pulled the engine out of my vl just for a quick strip down and look see at the internals and wasnt to impressed with what i found, although it had all the parts in there that the previous owner promised, the block has a score in it that requires a re hone and 3 out of 6 pistons(forgies) are scored up big time on the skirts and the oil pick up was all gunked up with silastic. so if u are planning on buying an 'already built' car to save time and money your better off building your own so you no exactly how its been put together and what its got in there !!

its all a learning curve mate and i totally agree with you, and unfortunately there is ALOT of dodgy people in the vlt scene

This thread is correct. BUT...the particular issue here can be applied to many cars, not just VL's, that's not entirely fair on the cars or it's "scene" (although it's filled with lot's of retards who don't know anything and just enjoy talking sh*t all the time...). If you're buying a performance vehicle (or motor), make sure you know the exact history of the vehicle, they're more picky and obviously won't be as forgiving as a motor from the factory which has been neglected - who built it and when, how well maintained etc. Just because it's been rebuilt doesn't mean f*ck-all, lot's of tight people out there who use sh*t parts/okay parts and don't get the best people for the job - rebuilds can be worse than an n/a with high compression ffs. So the original poster suggesting the "build it yourself" rings true here, but just make sure it's done by the professionals, and tuned right etc. That's why I guess it's always "safer"(?) to just spend money on RB25's....make 400rwhp or so, and if it goes *pop* - buy another one ('rinse and repeat').

RB25det, flat top pistons and bolt on's good to see upto 500rwhp an dont care what anyone says cause my cars proof its possible now with the new tune ! if you want more than that you only need to upgrade rods, studs, gasket and balancer really and your safe to go more... Readily available engines tooo =D

Quote: Originally Posted by burgo88 [View Post] RB25det, flat top pistons and bolt on's good to see upto 500rwhp an dont care what anyone says cause my cars proof its possible now with the new tune ! if you want more than that you only need to upgrade rods, studs, gasket and balancer really and your safe to go more... Readily available engines tooo =D Don't even have to touch the internals....if people are that concerned about RWHP dyno figure, a touch under mid 500-600rwhp has been seen by a number of E85 + 98ron RB25 skylines in WA......standard RB25's, manual, GT3* series turbos Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

unlucky josh. almost all of us have been burned once in a while. personally i would never buy a complete motor in a running car like a VL that promises forged this and that. second hand is always cheaper, just be careful how you go about it. i bought all of my stuff second hand. but i bought a head and bottom end seperate so i could examine both (bottome end nearly perfect, head slightly pitted so refaced)

pretty off topic but just feeling the rb25 love, bloke at the track in an r31 with std rb25 (bar poncams) and just bolt ons with avgas - 495rwhp & 11.05 on little tiny slicks! but yes. careful what you buy. and xibitor is on the mark saying theres alot of dodgy ****s in the vl scene. i reckon more so than other cars tbh

Yeh well i had a expensive lesson cause of the vl i bought too, i was told it had built box, built motor, fuel system and ecu... but the motor had a regrind cam, stock vlt pistons and rods, and box wasnt much better it was rebuilt 3 times cause people are useless around perth in buildin boxes, ecu wasnt tuned or even wired properly and was missing alot of auxillary parts on it. Fuel system just had injectors, stock pump and internal pump was stuffed, fuel rail was standard and also standard fuel reg. So morel of the story, do the work urself. Thats why i source all parts direct, and do the work myself these days... I spent atleast 20 grand fixing the **** in my vl.. And after i sold the car then the gearbox blew again on the current owner and finally took it to Allfast where the gearbox was finally built right.

spend money on head, fuel, ecu, manifolds and turbo. then use stock rb30e bottom ends. if they pop 200 to replace Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by caibs [View Post] pretty off topic but just feeling the rb25 love, bloke at the track in an r31 with std rb25 (bar poncams) and just bolt ons with avgas - 495rwhp & 11.05 on little tiny slicks! haha i think i met this guy the other week. if it is the same guy he's great bloke, just genuine love of the car/motor, his r31 is a bit of a weapon, street rego but doesnt drive it on the street. was it a while r31 with bonnet pins? anyway, almost every single motor advertised these days has "forged" stuff. its almost all bull****, and so are the people saying the car made XXXrwhp with said forged motor, forging a dyno sheet is easier than forging a motor :P.