Hey guys, I've sort of decided on my speakers im going to get, which are: Alpine Type-X PRO SPX-13PRO 5-1/4" Component 2-Way Speaker Set (parcel shelf) http://www.alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=84 2x Alpine SWR-1242D Type-R 12" Subwoofer (boot) http://www.alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=106 Type-S 4" SPS-400 Coaxial 2-Way Speakers (for the dash) (Can you tell me of any better ones that would fit in the dash?) http://www.alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=97 And I was just wondering: What amp/amps would I need to run these speakers?(preferably Alpine because the speakers are) Are the tweeters that come with the speakers those little speakers? where do they go? And does it matter if you have type X,type R and Type S speakers together?(I wouldn't think it would matter) I'm not getting speakers for the doors as I don't have speaker holes cut and U think I might just leave it as is for now. How will this be wired up, what goes to what? blah blah blah. What are crossovers that come with the speakers? Just tell me what you know, there's a few questions there. =/ It's my first car and I have no idea about speakers or anything. Thanks guys.

I went with Aline type R. I reckon they rock. I used a Alpine PDX1.1000(2400 watts) amp and a Alpine PDX1.150 to power the splits & 6x9's. Alpine type X are mainly for competition use and are over rated I reckon. Friends reckon they can hear me allmost 1 km away with the bass. I'm using 1 PDX1.1000 to power the 2 x Alpine type R 12" subs. Also using a IVA-502E 7" screen aswell with a ipod connector. Alpine type S are the lower end quality speaker & wouldn't be much good with a amp I reckon. If you were to go with all type X for coaxialx & type R subs you'll be more than happy and would sound great. If you were to run type S in the dash it would be OK if they were connected to the deck. I suppose your after the type S because they only make a 4" speaker which would be OK if they where connected to the deck. Anyway my 2 cents worth. Here's a picture of the Alpine type R setup in my VZ. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by HTURBO [View Post] I suppose your after the type S because they only make a 4" speaker which would be OK if they where connected to the deck. Yup. So does that mono amp power 2 subs? Thanks, your's looks awesome.

Quote: Originally Posted by MacDee.au [View Post] Yup. So does that mono amp power 2 subs? Thanks, your's looks awesome. Yep. The PDX1.1000 mono block has 2 channels.

Quote: Originally Posted by HTURBO [View Post] Yep. The PDX1.1000 mono block has 2 channels. Then why is it called mono? =/ Also did you mean for the other amp a PDX-4.150? So the PDX-1.1000 powers the 2 subs in the back, and I can have the 4 channel amp(PDX-4.150) to power the 2 speakers on the parcel shelf and in dash/tweeters? or can I just power the dash speakers and tweeters from the headunit? because I heard it has it's own little amp in them. I just have some Sony one atm. Thanks.

Yeah funny hay. This PDF manual of the PDX1.1000 might explain things abit better. Page 2 http://www.alpine.com.au/files/pdx_1_1000.pdf

Anyone else have an opinion of my first post? Also, what are some good speakers I can get for the dash, because type-S 4" Alpines are the only one's that I hear will fit. Thanks.

Are you against cutting holes to mount larger 6.5" speakers in the front doors? I assume VL. I have used 6.5 inch in the doors with tweeter mounted in the factory position. You can get very nice sound from this arangement. The reason I say this is because the 4" type S speakers are likely to let your system down. With your front speakers they are of most importance to your system as ideally you will want the sound to be coming from the front of the car and sub to fill the lower down frequencies to blend with the midbass of your fronts. I would focus most of your budget towards quality front speakers over the rear for this reason, and if setup properly you will do away with rear speakers anyhow. The type R sub is capable, however if you are looking at options withing this price range and want something really nice look out for Image Dynamics IDQ or Boston G3. The PDX is a good amp and maybe the 5ch would be very attractive to you for its ability to power your entire system. If you do choose to run two amps and looking for something nice JL Audio Slash series have to be one of the best designed amps available and comparably priced. Of most importance is installation. You can buy the most expensive best equipment available, but if not installed well will sound like cheap and nasty gear. I higly recomend sealing service holes in the front doors if you choose to install the speakers in the door and also dynamat doors and rear parcel shelf to stop alot of the rattles. Anyhow good luck, I hope some of this info will help.

Not that I'm againt it it just seems a bit of a hassle, but I don't I think I might have to. I spose instead of having the 5.25" type-X's in the parcel shelf I could have these in the doors and parcel shelf? 2x pair of ALPINE SPR-17C 6.5/6.75" http://cgi.ebay.com/2-PAIRS-ALPINE-S...e m45f391d189 (http://cgi.ebay.com/2-PAIRS-ALPINE-SPR-17C-6-5-6-75-1200-WATT-CAR-SPEAKERS-/300439163273?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item45f391d189) But that one doesn't come with tweeters or those crossovers, but something like that. Also where is the factory postion for tweeters? Most of the items I've found from this company on ebay with free delivery, I'm not sure where I could find good cheap 5 channel amp. Are the 2 type R subs not very good?

Quote: Originally Posted by MacDee.au [View Post] Not that I'm againt it it just seems a bit of a hassle, but I don't I think I might have to. Definatly worth the hassle. I dont like cutting door trims and the likes myself but at the end of the day this is the best option sound wise. I have also made custom fibreglass kick panels but this is much more work than cutting the doors. I spose instead of having the 5.25" type-X's in the parcel shelf I could have these in the doors and parcel shelf? 2x pair of ALPINE SPR-17C 6.5/6.75" http://cgi.ebay.com/2-PAIRS-ALPINE-S...e m45f391d189 (http://cgi.ebay.com/2-PAIRS-ALPINE-SPR-17C-6-5-6-75-1200-WATT-CAR-SPEAKERS-/300439163273?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item45f391d189) But that one doesn't come with tweeters or those crossovers, but something like that. Idealy you need component speakers for the front (splits). Woofer Tweeter and crossover seperate. steer away from coaxials in the front. Also where is the factory postion for tweeters? I mean, woofer in door and tweeter in factory speaker location. Most of the items I've found from this company on ebay with free delivery, I'm not sure where I could find good cheap 5 channel amp. Depends what you consider cheap http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-Alpine-PD...item27b0d7ea4a (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-Alpine-PDX-5-Amplifier-5-Channel-Digital-Amp-/170470664778?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b0d7ea4a) Are the 2 type R subs not very good? Yes, they are good certainly not letting the system down. Check out the IDQ image dynamics, they are top notch SQL sub and will play very well in a sealed enclosure. Id suggest running one sub powered correctly, you can use the saved funds towards better speakers + amp + install. If you have a budget in mind and can tell us what you need to buy we can then help build system. Are you installing yourself or paying for somebody to install and is this included in your budget.

By factory position I think he means placing the tweeter in the dash, replacing the "factory" 4". I didn't want to chop my interior either, so I just put tweeters in the dash, 6's in the shelf and a 12 in the boot, 4 channel and a mono. It's nothing special and would sound heaps better with the 6's in the doors. Factor in alot of cash for dynamat in your budget because vl's rattle like all ****. To do the 6's in the doors you will most likely have to cut holes in the door frame, legality issues there but i reckon it would be worth it. That being said I wouldn't do it to mine. Find a friend who is into car audio to help you when it comes to the install because as was said it is important.

Quote: Originally Posted by RB-30-ET [View Post] If you have a budget in mind and can tell us what you need to buy we can then help build system. Are you installing yourself or paying for somebody to install and is this included in your budget. I don't have an exact budget in mind but maybe $2,000? I've been looking here: http://stores.ebay.com/AUDIOSAVINGS-..._sasiZ1QQ_vcZ1 (http://stores.ebay.com/AUDIOSAVINGS-ELECTRONICS-SUPERSTORE__W0QQ_nkwZalpineQQ_armrsZ1QQ_dmdZ2QQ_fromZQQ_ipgZQQ_sasiZ1QQ_vcZ1) Probably looking to pay for a proper install. Quote: Originally Posted by red vlc [View Post] Factor in alot of cash for dynamat in your budget because vl's rattle like all ****. To do the 6's in the doors you will most likely have to cut holes in the door frame, legality issues there but i reckon it would be worth it. That being said I wouldn't do it to mine. What's Dynamat, is it the carpet stuff that goes over the sub-box and stuff? Also what do you mean about speakers for the doors? ---------- Post added 12-07-10 at 09:14 ---------- Although I dont think that company on ebay has free shipping to Aus, I thought it did, but it's probably quite expensive, Where would I be able to buy new alpine Systems that won't be too expensive. Any shops in Sydney? Or maybe somewhere in Aus I could get cheap delivery to Sydney?

dynamat is basically foil with tar on the back (obviously not that simple, but thats the basic idea), and you use it to prevent rattles and as sound deadener by sticking it to the cars frame work such as in the boot, behind door trims and as mentioned under the parcel shelf. when people are telling you to put splits in the front of your car, they are implying that you place the split's woofer in your door where your map holder currently is. And for the tweeter everyone has their own idea.

That would be expensive to get installed though right? And as for doors I dont have a map holder there, and I'll get a pic later when my car gets back from the mechanic of the speakers and where the tweeters are currently. Also say I bought everything, subs, speakers for parcel shelf, doors, and dash, how much would it all cost to be wired up and installed. Also not sure if I'm going to make my own sub box in the boot, think I might have to leave that to the experts, but we'll see. Thanks.

The installation will be of most importance to you. If there is things you can do yourself will help save some money, but only do this if your confident. For $2000 I would spend as per below. You may be able to save a few bucks buying online. HU = $350 (Alpine 9886 for ease of use etc) Amp = $400 ( Look at second hand Alpine MRV-F545 V12 for its excellent 3ch capability 125x2 + 500x1) SUB = $350 (IDQ image dynamics) Front Splits 6.5" = $450 (personal preferance, let your ears decide) Wiring = $150 - $200 Dynamat = $150 Total = $1850 approx. (plus installation costs + Sub Box etc) Rear speakers not required. This should sound great and have opportunity to expand later if required. The 9886 can have imprint tuning features upgraded, the amp is 4 channel if rear speakers and second mono sub amp is upgraded at a later date.

Don't be afraid to cut holes in the door. Get someone to do it professionally and they will do a great job. Mine only cost $130. Secondly if you plan on keeping the 4" speakers then i wouldn't even bother trying to get a decent sound system because it will always be lacking. Type R in my opinion are over rated. Go to JB hifi and compare JL audio to Alpine type R and you won't turn back. I walked in to JB hifi going to buy a type R system and walked out with JL audio. I even already had a Type R sub and sold it as soon as I heard the JL pump. Everyone has a type r system. They are too mainstream and for the money you pay you could find a lot better. My system is all JL audio and I am very happy with it. I bought all my stuff from JB hifi. I no a guy there so got it all for a good price. G4500 4 channel amp powering C2-600 splits in the front C2-600x coaxials in rear parcel shelf G1700 monoblock powering JL audio W3V3 sub I am using a JVC deck I got off ebay KD-AVX2 Cost: 4 channel + splits $700 monoblock $400 coxials $170 sub%2

I've found this package that comes with the same amp and splits you have, not sure what coaxials but they are 6", for $899. The shop is in Granville which is 20km's from me(35mins). http://www.soundmaster.com.au/JL-4-C...ck/JLPACK1.asp (http://www.soundmaster.com.au/JL-4-Channel-Amplifier-with-6inch-splits-and-6inch-Coaxial-Pack/JLPACK1.asp) And the same mono amp for $459 brand new. http://www.soundmaster.com.au/JL-Aud...fier/G1700.asp (http://www.soundmaster.com.au/JL-Audio-G1700-G-Series-Mono-Block-Amplifier/G1700.asp) And the sub for $409 brand new, is it the 4ohm I want? I have no idea what that is. http://www.soundmaster.com.au/JL-Aud...er/12W3V34.asp (http://www.soundmaster.com.au/JL-Audio-12W3V34-12inch-Subwoofer/12W3V34.asp) I'm still looking through this website havn't made any firm decisions yet, tell me what you think. http://www.soundmaster.com.au/ I found this site too, also close, 20minutes away. http://www.ryda.com.au/Car-Audio-s/1.htm I'll have to go into JB HIFI to see their range, they don't have much on their website.

The price of everything is decent I reckon. And yeah that is correct they are 6" speakers. If you have a jb hifi near you, sometimes they can beat internet prices. Or even get them to price it all up for you and ask them for their best deal. You may need to ask them a few times and set your own price with their 'lowest' price they are offering. Other good thing is you can hear them on the board. The only real difference is the sub is without a box in your price. And to be honest with this sub, the box is what makes it sound so awesome. But yeah drop by jb hifi and I'm sure they will get you a great deal!

How much do you think it would cost to get just general boot install like sub box that fits in the boot properly to the measurements of the boot from one side to the other and carpeted and all the rest? I know alot of people do their own boot install but I don't think I trust myself to do it. So you seriously think JL Audio is the way to go? Better then Alpine and Pioneer and others, price-wise/quality? Thanks!

Well my personal opinion was JL audio. Like I said I went in to get alpine type R, but decided to have a listen to the type R's, pioneers and JL audio. I thought that JL audio was clearly much better than the alpines. I then got the guy to play the splits while listening to the same brand sub. so the type r sub and type r splits and the JL audio sub and splits sounded much clearer and gave a better quality sound. Go there and have a listen and you can decide for yourself I guess. But like I said the box I have is highly recommened with the JL audio sub. A boot install can be expensive depending on what you have done. Maybe have a go at a boot install and where ever you get stuck or can't do somethine, then get professionals to do. All you really need to buy is some plywood, carpet, contact adhesive spray and a jigsaw. Cost me all up about $150 But I also bought carpet for the boot floor. Mine looks messy at the moment but is nowhere near finished.