ive got a noisy lifter, so when i fix that up since the rocker cover has to come off i was thinking if im going to go that far i might put a cam in the rb30. depeneding what needs to come off ect. i am looking at a getting a cam, looking at a 285 or a 274 inlet. if they head has to come off i was looking at getting it shaved as i know a guy who has a head shop and he can do it cheap. sorry if it sounds noobie, im just usto 308s

hey mate nah head dont need to come off, you need to pull all the rocker gear off, undo your engine mounts and lift the front of the motor to slide the cam out, have to take off harmonic balancer to set you timming back up when you put the new cam in and belt on\ hope this helps ---------- Post added 03-06-10 at 00:20 ---------- or you could take the head off but theres no need, just more work and money for you to fork out

thanks heaps big help. so realy its an easy job? does the radiator have to come outt too? only was gana take the head off to give it a bit of a shave get more compression

Well yeah you can pull the radiator out for more room which means easyier job. If you take the head off, well then pull the cam out when its off as you dont need to lift the front of the motor then to slide the cam out. Reason behond lifting motor is that you wont get passed the radiator and the front support panel. no worries mate any more questions just ask, and yeah its piece of piss to do

yeah awesome. just a bit scared in taking head off herd VL crack head if not bleed correctly. would happen to know of a good cam? in my first post i put the ones i was looking at

its na yeah? pretty easy to bleed mate and only will crack if it gets to hot, my vl overheated on time and never cracked the head on it, if you have a gregories manual and follow it you should not have any drama's. Is it manual or auto, have a look on wade cams website and crow cams website even contact them and they will recomend the best cam for your car

manual, 3.9 gears. just hoping somone might know or tryed it

If you set the motor to BTDC, then the harmonic balancer doesn't need to come off. Just secure the timing belt so it doesn't move. It is a good opportunity to replace it though. Speak to a cam shop, you may need to have you lifter blocks machined.

Just need to be sure on a few things. With changing a cam. The cam I had in it recently had the rocker arms & lifters shimmed about 6 months ago. I've only done around 2,000km's. Will it be a straight swap over to a different cam or should I have the rockers machined & lifters machined again?? To be sure?? Is their a thread about changing cams. I can't be stuffed looking for one. If there is can somebody let me know thanks. Seriously It can't be that hard!!! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Bleeding the cooling system is easy just need a coke bottle turned into a funnel taped to the radiator to make it the highest point and a 10mm socket for the two bleeding holes. I'd take the head off personally as if its a decent cam it will require higher compression to really work wonders (I'm assuming your speaking in an N/A application), this way you can get it machined to whatever comp ratio the cam specs indicate, Also when you put in the cam read the specs as aftermarket cams generally require modified timing so a adjustable cam gear would be an idea too if its "stage 3" cam or above. also when your doing the lifters would be a good idea to while your there take them all out and soak in diesel overnight just to clean them up a bit.

Can you reuse a MLS gasket. The one I had was coated in viton rubber, so does that mean I should replace it??

If memory serves me right, you have to start backing off the 4 middle rocker shaft bolts, loosening them off in sequence (keep on going backwards & forwards) till they're all loose, that has to be done this way because the valve springs load up the rocker arms, it's similar to doing the OHC Falcon engines ,the same principle works on a twin cam Nissan motor only that there are 2 separate camshafts and no rocker arms, when you do them up, set the torque wrench to 22NM after the rocker shafts are fully seated, I think the Nissans are o.k., but I've found with some of the GM & Ford motors, you have to replace these bolts because they are torque yield and likely to snap if used more than once. Don't forget to undo the camshaft sprocket before you do all of this and if you don't have a service manual,count the teeth on the camshaft belt before you do that, there should be 53 teeth, it makes sense to throw a new belt & tensioner on after doing all of that. On Ebay, they've got a stage 4 chip to do an RB30E which has had a camshaft upgrade,they were talking about a 25FWKW increase but I think you should be able to get better than 139FWKW with those mods, a bloke my dad used to work with claimed to get that sort of power out of a VL which only had a sports exhaust system, extractors, advanced cam timing,5 speed manual, high low air filter and cold air intake from memory. Well, he put it on a dyno and it put out 135FWKW, yeah , he wrote that off and got a 5 litre VK and said the VL was putting out more power than that, I think that was only putting out 127FWKW.

Quote: Originally Posted by vh sle rb [View Post] Shimmed? Wtf vl's use hydraulic lifters thay don't need shims. The lifters get abit carboned up over time and become sticky you can pull em apart an clean em but its a prick to do $20 each per new lifter easier. Shimmed, machined, reface blocks same thing.