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rear mount turbo setups

Started by Duke57TT · 21 Dec 2009 · 49 replies

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Duke57TTArchived member
I think the Proboost guy is pretty knowledgeable, maybe give him a bell and see what he thinks. On a T4 leg versus a T3 leg, a .83 T4 is like a 1.06 T3 If it was me I would possibly think about... http://www.proboost.com.au/level2.as...anttype=Turbos (http://www.proboost.com.au/level2.asp?viewitem=TURTO4Z&planttype=Turbos) With a .63 AR I havn't crunched the numbers, but I'm not sure what your EGT would drop from front to back to calculate the required AR. It would nearly be more than half I would guess.
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BYBYE NSWArchived member
yeh the super t70 from pro boost looks like the go for bang for buck. its .86 rear with 64.5mm exhaust wheel.rated at 650hp for $650 year warranty.cant go wrong. who is best for a retune of the kalmaker brad says someone like sams performance in sydney??? example of the lag.he is getting full boost at 3k http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdjh3EY6shU two guys garage.(yank car show)this is a must watch video for this thread!!!!!! very impressive results on ls1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnFA93_U9hY&NR=1
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7FOUR7Archived member
what size lines would you reccomend for the oil feed and drain duke?
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Duke57TTArchived member
-3 or 4 for the feed, and the return whatever size the outlet on the pump is. Probably -8 or 10. I would run braid, or just use normal cheap blue stuff but it will need protection from rocks and ****.
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7FOUR7Archived member
yeah I'll run braid for sure, it's worth it in the long run.
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Duke57TTArchived member
Well PM when you need it and I can give you a price. I have some laying about.
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7FOUR7Archived member
champion, will do! yeah so anybody know any reccomended tuners of kalmaker in NSW? preffereably newcastle/sydney area, I heard sams performance are good. Also, if I had to take a week or 2 between fitting the system and tuning the thing, could I just leave the TB cooler pipe off and run it n/a while I was waiting for it to be tuned? I have done this with vls before but just want to make sure
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EAT 747Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by 7FOUR7 champion, will do! yeah so anybody know any reccomended tuners of kalmaker in NSW? preffereably newcastle/sydney area, I heard sams performance are good. Also, if I had to take a week or 2 between fitting the system and tuning the thing, could I just leave the TB cooler pipe off and run it n/a while I was waiting for it to be tuned? I have done this with vls before but just want to make sure speak to todd at carline maitland,he has a guy that they use to tune kalmaker....
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7FOUR7Archived member
cool, thanks mate.
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DA HOONArchived member
**** you waste money lol
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7FOUR7Archived member
thanks for reminding me.. Like I said, it's an addiction.. Better than being addicted to ice I guess. Anyways, another question for duke.. How do you propose we prevent crank case pressure, is the way he has done it on this ghetto website correct? http://www.junkyardturbos.com/Rear-Mount-Turbo.php Also do you agree with having to have a check valve in the oil feed line to stop the oil running into the turbo when the car is switched off? I've never heard of it before.
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MorgzArchived member
Theres a bloke at SAS (Silverwater Automotive Services) thats a gun with tuning factory 5L comps.
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ProTigArchived member
It's never a waste of money if you enjoy it :-)
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Duke57TTArchived member
Breathers are important, on my LSX engine I run 4 x -10 out of the rocker covers and one direct from the valley cover. All engines are different in the amount they breathe. Some people get away with fuck all and others need vacuum pumps to suck it out. If you want is semi legal you have to keep the system sealed. So I would have 2 -10 lines from the rocker covers in your case to the catch can. Now to the sump in -10 I would have a one way valve stopping anything coming from the direction of the sump, but letting the oil flow back down to it. The line from the top of the catch can to the t/b also needs one to prevent any pressurisation as the car comes on boost, but as you snap the throttle shut and the manifold pulls a vacuum you want to suck through all the bypass into the manifold to be burnt. Not all catch cans are created equal, really all your trying to do is create as much surface area as possible for the oil to stick to as the bypass air is drawn into the catch can. Doesn't matter how you do it. Generally I just weld stainless (or ally depending on what its made out of) plates that fit inside with holes drilled in them. Also catch can size does matter when its a sealed system, as its not vented to atmosphere you don't have infinite room to try and pressurise so making it as big as possible while being practicle helps. If its to small the engine will pressurise and you will have issues with oil leaks, parasitic losses blah blah blah. Some people reckon you should just have open breathers and be done with it, but this way returns alot of the oil to the sump and keeps the engine bay cleaner. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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7FOUR7Archived member
So to have open breathers it will be spraying oil out? What about a catch can with a breather, two -10s to the rockers and one to the sump? Also what style of injectors should I be looking for to use with the stock rails?
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Duke57TTArchived member
Probably not spraying oil out, but it will certainly be some in the air that vents filter or not. It depends on the motor really and how heavy it breathes. You could do it the way you suggest, but having it all plumbed back in is neat and works well, plus if you get a jack with some common sense you can show him its all plumbed back in and compliant. You can explain all your doing is filtering out excess oil while maintaining the factory system. As for injectors probably 42lb'ers or 60lb'ers whatever you come across at the right price.
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7FOUR7Archived member
ok thanks, yeah I know what size to get, just what type suit the holden rail? I havn't even looked at them lol and can I mount the scav pump in the engine bay or should it be closer to the turbo like the boot?
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Duke57TTArchived member
Depends on the spec of the pump and what it can pull. Most can push oil much further than they can suck it from. Ie 3ft of suction versus 15ft of pushing. The closer the better really.
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adam79Archived member
how ya going brad, sounds like a good project u got on the go mate. i must say it makes me laugh at all these guys talking about lag, you can tell they only play with 6 cylinders did you get a look at the street commodores shoot on that vh? if not i'll scan it ova for you. from memory the pics weren't real good. keep me posted on how your going and we'll go for a cruze, my vl's coming along very slow( manifolds r a prick of a job should of done what your doing). had to get a new car to keep me happy while i wait, got a vt2 300 gts with a 383 stroker making 400hp Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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Psi_WagonArchived member
^ use your head mate its fact, further from the cylinder, slower gas speed, you will NEED to run a smaller rear housing than if it was mounted in the bay. your not the only one playing with turbo's on V8's Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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