Hey guys, Finished my boot install tonight. thought I would do a bit of a tech write up as it was very hard for me to find any GOOD info on how to do the battery relocation anyways. My Dad owns a cabinet making business so he helped me out alot with all the wood work involved. Firstly i ripped the old carpet out of the boot and found a heap of little rust patches coming thru the boot floor, so I got out the angle grinder with a sanding disc and got rid of the rust. I then painted over it with some "Rust Bullet" just using a paint brush. a couple of before pics. I then got some thinners and a rag and cleaned all the steel inside the boot to get rid of all the dirt and grime. Then i went to the shops and bought some stuff. I went to autobarn and got a battery box $26 About 3 meters of 5 1/16 fuel inj. hose. around $15 per meter. I went to an auto elec and got. a battery isolator, a 30A relay (for fuel pumps) Junction Blocks one for earth & one for Pos. all up this stuff cost about $60 I then got from my work 7 meters of 70mm2 cable, cable end lugs, shrink wrap, some two core 4mm wire (for fuel pumps), a fuse holder with 30A fuse (for fuel pumps) about 40 cable ties and some loose elec terminals. I dont know how much all this stuff from work has cost me yet, but i got the cable for $4 per meter. i know it is big but i like to go overkill. we use it for truck power cables. I got some car type carpet from bunnings it was about $35 per meter. 2meters wide. To start off the boot job i cut out a piece of wood to the size of the bottom of the battery box. then drilled a 30mm hole in it to fit a drain hose. I decided to liquid nails the wood to the boot floor instead of screwing it because the fuel tank is directly under the floor here. (heaps of liquid nails that sucker aint going anywhere) the silver paint is the rust bullet. I then was going to glue carpet directly to the boot floor but with all the different angles and groves i decided against that. so instead i would make wood cut outs and glue the carpet to the wood. so i started on the stencil for the floor out of cardboard. i then just jigsawed out a thin piece of board to fit this shape. it was only about 4mm thick. we then glued carpet over the bit of wood for the battery (just with contact glue) glued carpet onto the floorr piece of wood and glued carpet up around the wheel arches. I then got back to the stencil making for the shelf section of the boot. we made it so that it hugged the wheel arches on the rear side then from the tightest point it just went straight towards the rear seat. (bit confusing) we used a thicker wood for this bit to mount the fuel pump and surge tank onto. we then made a front piece to go from the shelf straight down to the boot floor to meet up with the bit i made earlier. i also cut a hole in the board for the intank pump wires to go thru. It looks like this. i then wanted all the fuel pump and surge tank hidden so that the boys in blue dont finger me as easily, so we made a piece that goes from the shelf section up to the roof of the boot tucked in under the parcel shelf. it will screw to a piece of wood that we attached to the shelf. (confused yet? I'm confusing myself) this is the idea we then carpeted the parts that can be seen. we didn't carpet where the fuel pump and surge will be mounted. I'm just using rubber fuel hose as im only chasing about 220kw at the wheels so i thought braided stuff would be a waste of money. my next delema was how to pass thru the floor with the fuel hoses. so i went to a brake service place and got 1 meter of 8mm outside diameter brake pipe. i cut four pieces put about a 70degree bend on one end of each pipe, put a bit of a pipe flare on them to stop the hose blowing off. I then got some thin flate plate drilled 4 ofset 8mm holes in it and put the pipes thru and bronzed them into the plate. i put the bent ends on the bottom to kick the rubber hoses away from the diff. i drilled four holes in the boot floor with a small hole saw, siliconed and screwed my fuel pass thru into the floor the pipes didn't end up super straight but you dont see them and it does the trick real well. looks like this. ok then i mounted the 044 fuel pump and surge tank to the shelf, i also mounted the relay to the shelf so it is close to everything. Also while the shelf was out i mounted the earth cable to the boot floor on the angle beneath the shelf then drilled a hole in the face of the shelf over near where the battery is going to bring the cable out. I then screwed the battery box down and put the battery in it. and scratched my head at the messy wiring in the engine bay. I then worked out where i would run all my earth and power cables. The car used to be on gas so there was a hole for the filler on the drivers side wheel arch (now under carpet but still there) so i slit the carpet and fed the cable through there. i cable tied the cable to the fuel lines and ran it to the front connecting it straight to the starter motor. i bolted the earth cable onto the engine block near the starter motor and ran it to a good part of braceing near the auto (had a tapped bolt hole already there not being used) ok, i then ran a 25mm2 power cable up from the starter motor to a junction block mounted near where the battery used to be. i fitted new terminals to all the old power wires that were connected to the battery and fitted them all to the power junction. I then ran 2 new earths from the engine block and inlet manifold to where the brake master cylinder bracket bolts to the strut tower, i also ran the alternator earth to here (i dont have the bracket there anymore so i sanded the strut tower before fitting earths.) i then ran a earth wire from here to a earth junction block mounted next to the power junction. it still looks messy as and i have not removed the battery tray yet but this is what it looks like. (please dont bag out my dirty, messy engine bay, i already know. one step at a time.) ok thats all the engine wiring done. i then fitted the isolator switch to the lid of the battery box, i wasn't real happy doing it this way but it cut down on the length of power cable i needed and it turned out prety well. ok so thats the battery relocated. so now i removed the old fuel pump, and took the intank pump out. i fitted my new pierburg lift pump in place of the old intank. i had to fit a new piece of fuel line to the pump, i had to cut the piece off the bracket that hangs down past the end of the pump (bit with the little rubber grommet type thing on it) i also hose clamped the pump to the bracket. like this. this is a picture of the intank with the piece cut off the bracket. i only cut it off to get the pump back into the tank because of the different strainer/filter setup. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

ok with the new pickup pump in with a new gasket on the tank too. i wired up the pump relay using the old power wires from the ecu to switch the relay. i then used my two core wire and 30A fuse to ran power straight from the battery to the fuel pumps via the relay. i then taped up the wires and ran the wires back down thru the floor where they originaly went. I then ran all my hoses to the fuel pumps and surge tank etc. I then tested the that everything was working, pumps ran straight away (had a fuel leak from the 044 pump fitting, fixed that) Primed the fuel system and hit the key. cranked beautiful and fired up straight away. I then cleaned up a bit and this is how it turned out. sorry for the dark pics i'l take some more in daylight tomorrow. this is with the partition out. this is stealth spec with the partition in. you can only tell there is something behind the screen cos it sounds like there is a pissed off bumble bee in the boot. I hope this can help people in the future. cheers guys. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

very nice clean setup man uve done well! love the ghetto jackstands haha

where does the sound system go??? looks realley good, and some really good info there

well done mate.. good write up i found it easy to follow and before i read this i didnt know anythin about relocating a battery.. lol at you stealthiness ahaha i can Imagen the noise in the boot. end result looks neat aswell....thumbs up. Daniel Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Is that cable not too fat? I heard you lose cranking amps or something when the cable is too fat? is this not true??

no, you lose them when cables are too small

thanks guys, pretty happy with the way it came up. i had to get a the surge tank fixed tho, it had a crack in one of the welds and started spraying fuel out. not cool. Quote: Originally Posted by PSI_WAGN very nice clean setup man uve done well! love the ghetto jackstands haha haha, yeah i only have 2 stands for the back. does the trick. Quote: Originally Posted by MaD_WoG where does the sound system go??? looks realley good, and some really good info there the sound system goes in the bin...

epic thread man, well done. is it your first attempt at this kind of thing?

job well done only thing i dont like is cable tieing the power to the fuel line i no it probs will never cause an issue but its like fking your sister even if you are wearing a condom its wrong

LOL at anks comment

only problem with these setups is that they will leach fuel vapours and your car ends up stinking of petrol. There is a solution though! You can use bulkhead adapters as feed through's from outside to inside the boot. On the outside of the boot, you can use normal rubber hose. On the inside, you use teflon braided hose. These will not leach any fuel vapour at all. If anyone is interested in me putting together a surge tank, 044, bracket, teflon braide, bulk head, and rubber hose fitting kit, pm me, and i'll let you know an approximate price.

you didint mention but did you have to change the terminals for the intank pump?

hey mate do u ahve any finsihed picktures of the wireing in ure engine bay?

Quote: Originally Posted by 87hevn epic thread man, well done. is it your first attempt at this kind of thing? hey mate, yeah first attemp. was researching it for a little bit. Quote: Originally Posted by sleepyvlt you didint mention but did you have to change the terminals for the intank pump? yeah i did have to change the terminals. but was no biggie. just went from the ring type for a stud and nut to a push on blade type. you just have to make sure the blades are tight enough so they dont fall off, and make sure they are insulated so they dont touch each other. Quote: Originally Posted by vlt88wa hey mate do u ahve any finsihed picktures of the wireing in ure engine bay? nah sorry not yet. i stil have to get rid of the battery tray and make it a bit neeter first. i want to get rid of the fusible links and just fit fuses, but i'm unsure what size fuse to use.. when i finish i will post some engine bay pics.

Good write up, finished product looks very tidy If people don't mind spending a bit extra, "P-clamps" are very good for attaching battery cables, fuel Lines etc. You will avoid having rubbing issues, Here's a pic for anyone that hasn't seen them before... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Good work looks great. As RJB-223 said, Use p clamps if you got the extra coin, if you dont just be careful when mounting the wiring you dont want it to rub away on something, then you could be in big trouble. Otherwise, zip ties is your best friend for this job Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Hey mate awesome write up i have to do this for my EH Holden shortly just one thing though instead of brassing the four fuel lines, i probably would have used cable glands to come through. Not sure if im keen to have the battery in the boot with fuel cell and surge setup in case of big bang but im going to have to lol.

Quote: Originally Posted by Mr Parts only problem with these setups is that they will leach fuel vapours and your car ends up stinking of petrol. There is a solution though! You can use bulkhead adapters as feed through's from outside to inside the boot. On the outside of the boot, you can use normal rubber hose. On the inside, you use teflon braided hose. These will not leach any fuel vapour at all. If anyone is interested in me putting together a surge tank, 044, bracket, teflon braide, bulk head, and rubber hose fitting kit, pm me, and i'll let you know an approximate price. so your saying that if you use rubber hose inside the car, thats when it starts leaking vapours? what about if you use braided hose inside the car?

Hey mate, are those cable lugs just crimpable with some pliers or similar, some of the engine bay ones look pretty squished, or did you use a tool to do it? Let me know what you did with your alternator/starter wires, might do this on the weekend.